Would it be possible to replace the bushings on the body mounts from the bottom so I wouldn't have to peel back my flooring? Either way, is it worth replacing the body mounts with a 1' body lift to get more room in the engine compartment to allow for a bigger air cleaner?
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Replace Body Mounts from the bottom
- Thread starter kungfooo
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 47,641
You always replace them from the bottom.
In basic terms, you remove the bolts, lift the body up slightly, then remove and replace the bushings/insulators and you're done.
In reality it's not always that easy, as the the upper and lower bushings are sandwiched and held in place by their interlocking washers. Which then proceed to rust together and lock even tighter. Over 40 to 50 years then, they get pretty stuck.
Once you separate the retaining washers though, it's a simple matter of lifting the body up an inch or so (a little more for a body lift) and slipping the old ones out and the new ones in.
It's definitely worth the extra 1" for a little extra money to get that extra room. Not everyone needs it of course, and if you're going to keep the Bronco 100% stock then you're among those that don't need it much. It still makes it easier to get to the rear spark plugs from underneath, the starter bolts, and stuff like that. But nothing earth-changing.
But if a taller intake and air cleaner, or taller engine, or larger transmission are in your future, then the body lift is a huge bonus.
Paul
In basic terms, you remove the bolts, lift the body up slightly, then remove and replace the bushings/insulators and you're done.
In reality it's not always that easy, as the the upper and lower bushings are sandwiched and held in place by their interlocking washers. Which then proceed to rust together and lock even tighter. Over 40 to 50 years then, they get pretty stuck.
Once you separate the retaining washers though, it's a simple matter of lifting the body up an inch or so (a little more for a body lift) and slipping the old ones out and the new ones in.
It's definitely worth the extra 1" for a little extra money to get that extra room. Not everyone needs it of course, and if you're going to keep the Bronco 100% stock then you're among those that don't need it much. It still makes it easier to get to the rear spark plugs from underneath, the starter bolts, and stuff like that. But nothing earth-changing.
But if a taller intake and air cleaner, or taller engine, or larger transmission are in your future, then the body lift is a huge bonus.
Paul
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 47,641
If you're contemplating this project, I would loosen all the bolt snow and spray some penetrating lube down the holes right now. Then when you start the project in a week or more, at least the stuff has had some time to work it's magic. If it can...
When you loosen the bolts, leave them in, or better yet get a couple of longer ones to use as punch pins. With the bolt head up where you can get to them, hit them EXTREEEEMLY HARD with a big hammer.
If the lower washer dislodges and the bolt goes down, great! If not, keep hitting. Then hit it some more.
If no amount of hitting will dislodge the lower washer (visible from underneath the mounts) then you will proceed to Plan-B, then Plan-C, then sometimes even Plan-9 From Outer Space.
These usually include a reciprocating saw and several blades, or a decent drill motor and some large bits. You're either going to cut the mount bushings and sleeves in half (being careful not to damage the actual frame mount points of course), or drill up from underneath once the bolt is removed to nibble away at the rusted interface.
I've seen some come right out (friend removed all 8 of his in just a couple of minutes) and I've seen some take up a whole weekend. Just depends on how cooperative your mounts are.
If you have the equipment you can lift the entire body off the frame once you remove the bolts. Then wail on the mounts from a position of authority. If you're like most of us however, once the bolts on one side are removed you can use a floor jack and a 4x4 under the rocker to life one side at a time. All depends.
Whatever you do, make sure the doors are fully latched when lifting, or if no doors then the openings are reinforced to avoid any kinking of the sheet metal of the rocker.
And make sure that you absolutely positively unbolt the fan shroud from the radiator and any auto trans linkage, and maybe even the clutch linkage. Lifting the body flexes all attached points. Those are just the most sensitive to a little extra lifting.
Paul
When you loosen the bolts, leave them in, or better yet get a couple of longer ones to use as punch pins. With the bolt head up where you can get to them, hit them EXTREEEEMLY HARD with a big hammer.
If the lower washer dislodges and the bolt goes down, great! If not, keep hitting. Then hit it some more.
If no amount of hitting will dislodge the lower washer (visible from underneath the mounts) then you will proceed to Plan-B, then Plan-C, then sometimes even Plan-9 From Outer Space.
These usually include a reciprocating saw and several blades, or a decent drill motor and some large bits. You're either going to cut the mount bushings and sleeves in half (being careful not to damage the actual frame mount points of course), or drill up from underneath once the bolt is removed to nibble away at the rusted interface.
I've seen some come right out (friend removed all 8 of his in just a couple of minutes) and I've seen some take up a whole weekend. Just depends on how cooperative your mounts are.
If you have the equipment you can lift the entire body off the frame once you remove the bolts. Then wail on the mounts from a position of authority. If you're like most of us however, once the bolts on one side are removed you can use a floor jack and a 4x4 under the rocker to life one side at a time. All depends.
Whatever you do, make sure the doors are fully latched when lifting, or if no doors then the openings are reinforced to avoid any kinking of the sheet metal of the rocker.
And make sure that you absolutely positively unbolt the fan shroud from the radiator and any auto trans linkage, and maybe even the clutch linkage. Lifting the body flexes all attached points. Those are just the most sensitive to a little extra lifting.
Paul
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 47,641
Not a bad idea to leave a big block of time. But it wouldn't hurt to give it a trial run either. to see how easy/hard it's really going to be.
You could start at the rear two mounts just inside the tailgate, where all you have to do is lift the carpet or the mat, assuming you have either of those.
You can access the bolts easily and can then see if they will come out easily and fully, or if they're going to fight you a bit. You can check for rust at that point too.
If it's not bad, then there's a good chance you could get it done in just two or three hours if you're good at this type of stuff.
But if those two give you grief, you can lay a smart bet that at least some of the other six are going to fight you. The two behind the seats have the least access from underneath. The two in the front floor pans have about the most. While the two at the front aren't too bad, but being all out in front of the weather, and under the radiator and battery, tend to be the most mucked up of all of them.
Have fun!
Paul
You could start at the rear two mounts just inside the tailgate, where all you have to do is lift the carpet or the mat, assuming you have either of those.
You can access the bolts easily and can then see if they will come out easily and fully, or if they're going to fight you a bit. You can check for rust at that point too.
If it's not bad, then there's a good chance you could get it done in just two or three hours if you're good at this type of stuff.
But if those two give you grief, you can lay a smart bet that at least some of the other six are going to fight you. The two behind the seats have the least access from underneath. The two in the front floor pans have about the most. While the two at the front aren't too bad, but being all out in front of the weather, and under the radiator and battery, tend to be the most mucked up of all of them.
Have fun!
Paul
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2010
- Messages
- 608
I had 5 that impact removed, 3 were difficult. Plan on a weekend, but, start spraying them now, and give a few bangs in advance.
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2006
- Messages
- 1,205
Replaced all of mine in an hour or so. Use a reciprocating saw (Sawzall) with a blade made for cutting metal that has teeth larger than a hacksaw, and cut through the exposed rubber mount/bolt/spacer.
Once through, the lower half of the bolt drops out of the bottom of the frame and you remove the upper half of the bolt from the top. If working alone, you will also need a way to slightly lift the body (1/2" or so) in that area so you can remove the old mount and install the new one. I used a floor jack and a large block of wood.
Once through, the lower half of the bolt drops out of the bottom of the frame and you remove the upper half of the bolt from the top. If working alone, you will also need a way to slightly lift the body (1/2" or so) in that area so you can remove the old mount and install the new one. I used a floor jack and a large block of wood.
