Replace Body Mounts before or after Roll Cage?

[NJBronk]

I tried searching here but couldn't find an answer to my specific question...

My body mounts look original and seem pretty well-worn, cracked, and a bit compressed. I'm thinking about replacing them with stock height rubber (I know, I know, I should do a 1" body lift, but I really like the stance of my truck currently).

My hard top is off and gone (sold) because I plan to put in the Bailie family cage and a Rampage soft top.

My question is, does it matter whether I install the cage first or do the body mounts first? I am not sure how much the mounts may vary / currently affect body alignment. And I imagine the roll cage will only really keep the floor pan itself rigid/in place, so I don't think it matters? But I know absolutely nothing about body work/alignment so I want to make sure I don't make a mistake.

Thanks!

 

[rocknhorse76]

Replace your body mounts first.

 

[tirewater]

Replace your mounts. Keep any shims that were used on your stock mounts, and use them with your new mounts.

If you like the stance if your vehicle, stick with the stock height. I reverted from 1" body lift to stock height for the same reason.

The body lift is nice when you're working under the car, as it gives you more space between the body and chassis, but I wasn't a fan of the tailgate gap, or the extra space in my wheel wells as I'm using 31" tires.

 

[NJBronk]

Replace your body mounts first.

Damn, I was afraid that would be the answer...

 

[NJBronk]

Replace your mounts. Keep any shims that were used on your stock mounts, and use them with your new mounts.

If you like the stance if your vehicle, stick with the stock height. I reverted from 1" body lift to stock height for the same reason.

The body lift is nice when you're working under the car, as it gives you more space between the body and chassis, but I wasn't a fan of the tailgate gap, or the extra space in my wheel wells as I'm using 31" tires.

Good point about the shims; that wasn't on my radar.

 

[rocknhorse76]

Good point about the shims; that wasn't on my radar.

Just do the mounts without shims first and then measure from the body to the frame at all points and compare the dimensions side to side. If the measurements differ, add shims. The shims can be large washers.

 

[BGBronco]

I did the cage first. I understand why it would be better the other way around but not sure it really makes a big difference.

 

[nvrstuk]

If your mounts have wear or have collapsed some you will quickly understand why you don't want to just automatically replace the same shim pack you pulled out with the old ones. and stick them with the new ones. What rocknhorse76 said- measure and inspect closely

 

[NJBronk]

If your mounts have wear or have collapsed some you will quickly understand why you don't want to just automatically replace the same shim pack you pulled out with the old ones. and stick them with the new ones. What rocknhorse76 said- measure and inspect closely

It was a PITA but I got it done before putting the cage in:

https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threads/body-mount-order-of-operation.319141/

https://classicbroncos.com/forums/threads/bailie-family-cage-is-in.319471/

I'm not so sure about the shimming. I think either my frame or body is a little wonky as I had to shim the rear passenger mount because there was a small gap there between the body and mount. I also tried to mess with the mounts behind the seats to see if I could close the gaps at the bottoms of my doors a bit, but that didn't seem to work. Maybe one day I'll go back and try again, but I doubt it...

 

[DirtDonk]

You can't really "close" the lower door gaps. You can only even them out by widening or narrowing the top gaps. Or was that what you were trying?
The lower end of the door opening is fixed by the body panels/rockers all welded together, of course, so that's not really going to change literally. But I suppose closing up the top will by design close up the bottom a little too, if that's what you were trying. But it's more about evening them up than anything else.
But you had the thinking correct. Changing the height of one or another body mounting point can definitely be used to straighten up other things.

Glad you got it done though. That's a pain job for sure sometimes. We're starting to see more and more where one mount or another does not even meet up with the body. I remember one (I think it was here?) where the two rear mounts didn't even come close!

Paul

 

[NJBronk]

You can't really "close" the lower door gaps. You can only even them out by widening or narrowing the top gaps. Or was that what you were trying?
The lower end of the door opening is fixed by the body panels/rockers all welded together, of course, so that's not really going to change literally. But I suppose closing up the top will by design close up the bottom a little too, if that's what you were trying. But it's more about evening them up than anything else.
But you had the thinking correct. Changing the height of one or another body mounting point can definitely be used to straighten up other things.

It's not the gap between the door and the jamb looking from the side, but the bottom of the doors stick out from the body a bit when looking from the rear, if that makes sense... I thought maybe there was a little twist in the body causing it, but nothing seemed to really help. I didn't mess with it too much because it's not so bad.

 

[Speedrdr]

It's not the gap between the door and the jamb looking from the side, but the bottom of the doors stick out from the body a bit when looking from the rear, if that makes sense... I thought maybe there was a little twist in the body causing it, but nothing seemed to really help. I didn't mess with it too much because it's not so bad.

Can’t you adjust the bottom hinge and/or the striker bolt to pull the bottom of the door in closer in line with the rocker panel? Seems like that would work…but as I’ve never done it, don’t know for sure.

Randy

 

[DirtDonk]

Actually, we see that a lot with these things. Especially after installing door seals.
It’s usually the rear of the door I think, but one lower edge, or the other sticks out farther than it should.
If the front is lined up perfectly, then changing the adjustment of the hinge to suit the rear will just mess up the front. There are some tweaks you can manage however, lining up the door with the solid parts of the body (in other words, the rear), and then readjusting things like the front fender to match the leading edge of the door.
It’s probably a door issue, but it could still be a body issue if the front fender is messed up.

Is this with new weatherstripping by any chance?

 

[NJBronk]

Is this with new weatherstripping by any chance?

No, but I actually have new premium lower door seals from Dennis Carpenter waiting to be installed after slicing the old ones with my cage feet during installation... Hoping that doesn't make it any worse, and maybe they're softer than what I have on there and might actually help.

 

[DirtDonk]

Does the roll cage come into direct contact with the body? Perhaps it is pushing out at the top (or even pulling it in) and creating an issue once you line up the top of the door.
Maybe the door itself is twisted.
Lots of things it could be still.

 

[NJBronk]

Does the roll cage come into direct contact with the body? Perhaps it is pushing out at the top (or even pulling it in) and creating an issue once you line up the top of the door.
Maybe the door itself is twisted.
Lots of things it could be still.

The mounts and adjustment were done before the cage went in.