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My second Bronco... Crawler build...

Letsgocrawling

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Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2008
Messages
513
Loc.
Tucson Az.
hERS
Been working out my front dual triangulated 4 link and trying to squeeze it all under the Bronco, but keep it low and functional...

I am looking at mounting the upper link frame mount outside the frame with the link going under the frame to the top of the axle. This will allow me to have a good angle on the links, clear the oil pan and give me some decent numbers in the 4 link calculator. I ran some mock up links and it appears I should get 6" up travel with frame clearance... If I make my brackets right. Which is the reason for my post.

I have a mock up of the upper link frame mount. The links will be at 20 degrees from center with 32" length. This will put me right in front of the body mount. Lowers will also run 20 degrees to CL and be about 42" long. I am concerned that the uppers are a little short, but they are close to the suggested 70% rule, fit and give decent calculator numbers

I would not consider this to be putting my engineering degree & skills to work!! LOL!

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Do'nt be afraid of small bump #s, 6 is plenty, I get most of my travel from droop, I do run a suspention limiting strap as to not get cockeyed with the ujoints. My set up is 5 bump and 13 droop and that is the shock movement, the strap allows full shock articulation but limits horizontal axle droop to my straps length, that keeps the ujoints from going into a binding or breaking point. I did the exact thing as you, template wise---and used the caculator also. Ride height is where the bump and droop #s are figured, just making sure were on the same page. Keep the pics coming
mark
 
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Mountain Ram

Mountain Ram

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Recovering Masshole
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May 8, 2011
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3,387
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Abingdon, VA
10 droop and 6 bump- from ride height. This is what I ran on my full size crawler and it worked really well. I have limit straps at the coil overs. I had no issue with driveshafts on my other rig running a doubler- long shafts and 120" wheelbase. The rear will be my issue on the Bonco.
 

73azbronco

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Bronco Guru
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Nov 11, 2007
Messages
7,839
Awesome work and design!!



But, you may want to consider something stronger than cardboard. :)
 

GRN_MEANIE

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2005
Messages
553
Are you going to cut the crossmember that is under the balancer out? That would free up some up travel. I wish that I had moved my motor back when I did mine. I took the easy way and spaced my drivetrain up 2". My frame rails can sit on the Artec truss.
 
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Mountain Ram

Mountain Ram

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Recovering Masshole
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Awesome work and design!!

But, you may want to consider something stronger than cardboard. :)

Was trying to keep some costs down... you really think it wont work??;D;D

Are you going to cut the crossmember that is under the balancer out? That would free up some up travel. I wish that I had moved my motor back when I did mine. I took the easy way and spaced my drivetrain up 2". My frame rails can sit on the Artec truss.

Frame will be removed just forward of the engine mounts and rebuilt to house a winch, radiator and narrowed grille. Front axle is moved ~6" forward. Any further would have given me more room to work with, but would look less like a Bronco. The axle end of the upper link mounts will split the motor and will have room to move up beside it.

Where you kept your uppers totally outside the frame, my uppers cross under the frame- to get more triangulation. Our setups are very similar- Do you wish you had done anything different?
 

GRN_MEANIE

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2005
Messages
553
I would have/will move the motor so the Balancer is behind axle. Cut the frame off in front of the motor like you did. Ditch factory PB and change to manual pedal/resivoir setup for each axle. This would allow me to push the coilover up more to get more stuff at full articulation.

Just remember to cycle it a bunch, and invite folks to look for stuff as you cycle. It amazed me how much the uppers would move into the frame as we stuffed one side. More the link than at the bracket. I didn't want to do the uppers as much in hopes that I wouldn't need a sway bar, and less knife edge. So far so good.
 
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Mountain Ram

Mountain Ram

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The axle would have to be way forward or the motor way backward to clear the balancer!!

I wont be taking this on the road- hardly ever... only in towns near the 4x4 trails- it will be a trailer queen. May eventually go with sway bars if needed though. The frame will be limiting factor in full articulation- I have hydroboost to install and full hydro steering so I will be able to move things around as much as needed for clearance. I want to keep it low, but have to clear 44s too... I am targting overall height similar to my '75 with 37" tires and 7" lift- about 7' to the top of the cage.

Thanks for the input- keep it coming!
 

GRN_MEANIE

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 2, 2005
Messages
553
I was thinking moving the motor 6" back I believe. Which would probably be 4" for you. Wish I could remember why this is a good thing.... it's for crawling/weight transfere, and helps you get the truck lower.
 
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Mountain Ram

Mountain Ram

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Mocked up some more this evening. My cardboard bracket fit just right... And should hold up well with the PVC links.... PVC is more slick than steel links and can conform to rocks better!

Cutting front links tomorrow. Uppers are 1.75" 0.188 wall, lowers are 2.25" .375 wall... BEEF!!

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Lower link material!!

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Monster Mike

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Nice progress!

All my links are double sleeved heat treated chromoly. The p.o. Spared no expense!
 
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Mountain Ram

Mountain Ram

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Abingdon, VA
Nice progress!

All my links are double sleeved heat treated chromoly. The p.o. Spared no expense!

Wow... That is pretty sweet!

I have bent 1.5" 0.5" wall with ease on my full size crawler. Bent them back into shape in a 2x2x.25 angle iron and welded full length (it was free) and bent that. My uppers should be fine at 1.75 .188 wall... Hopefully the lowers work out- we will see.
 

Monster Mike

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Wow... That is pretty sweet!

I have bent 1.5" 0.5" wall with ease on my full size crawler. Bent them back into shape in a 2x2x.25 angle iron and welded full length (it was free) and bent that. My uppers should be fine at 1.75 .188 wall... Hopefully the lowers work out- we will see.

im betting you'll be fine. the links are probably shorter and the rig is probably a lot lighter then that beast :cool:
 
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Mountain Ram

Mountain Ram

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im betting you'll be fine. the links are probably shorter and the rig is probably a lot lighter then that beast :cool:

My current crawler runs 50" lowers and these are 42". Of course the truck probably weighs in between 6000-6500lbs while the Bronco should be around 4500.

If I bend one, I will go an alternate direction. Right now- I am anxious to get it sitting on the axles...
 
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Mountain Ram

Mountain Ram

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Got some progress this week... I first built a vertical band saw out of a portaband. SWAG off road has a great kit to do this, but I couldn't wait... Also picked up a drill press that I have needed forever!

Got both upper frame brackets cut, welded and tacked into place. Going to try o get the lower frame mount worked out.

Pics to follow.
 
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Mountain Ram

Mountain Ram

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Brackets done- gussets to be added.

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Welds don't look too bad- they always come out better when you chamfer the edge for the weld to penetrate into.

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