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Going with 4 Link. Question is: Coils n Shocks? Or CoilOvers?

mavereq

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Joined
Feb 19, 2009
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2,092
i've just been winging it as i go to be honest. it sounds like you'll avoid makind some mistakes planning everything out the way you have. i'm kind of hoping to just dop it off with an exhaust guy that has a good reputation and telling him to make it fit.
 

ken75ranger

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Jan 27, 2002
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5,069
Loc.
Troy, NY
so your links aren't the same length? do you get any bind?
The uppers are shorter. No bind really, I'm limited by the length of the shock. When we were testing it without shocks and springs we had around 14 inches of travel before it bound up and the pinion angle was too low to be useful. I'd say the max it could go if I changed to coilovers is 13 inches.
 
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KennyB

KennyB

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Sep 11, 2010
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I ordered everything from Ballistic Fabrication. There website has great Schematics, with Cad Drawings, and Measurements. This is a DAILY Driver, Comfort, and fitting other parts is huge. I'm going with a Lower Arm CrossMember at the Transfer Case Pinion. And the Lower arms go wide on the Axels in front of the Coil Spring Mounts. The Upper arms run Parallel under the frame. It's about 42" of lateral Arm distance, and mounting the arms below the T/C Pinion, "Should" keep the Diff Pinion angle constant....
 

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ken75ranger

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Is there a reason you don't put the triangulated links out farther on the axle?
Plan on a sway bar while your figuring out the suspension.
 

trailbound

Full Member
Joined
Feb 13, 2007
Messages
217
Your gonna want more link separation. The design over all is good. Even though your building a street rig, AS is going to be very important to eliminate wheel hop. Download the 4 link calc off pirate and have at it.
 

mavereq

Bronco Guru
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Feb 19, 2009
Messages
2,092
why are you trying to stay parallel on your links? it's not really necessary unless you're gonna run a panhard and no triangulation.

x2 on more vertical separation. try for 1/4 of your tire height at the axle and at least half that at the frame.
 
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KennyB

KennyB

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why are you trying to stay parallel on your links?
Naw, Lower is going Narrrow at the Frame, Wide at the Axels. I got 25* (on Paper) I'm going to break down and run the Calculator... (uhhhg) ***DOES ANYONE KNOW THE WEIGHT at Front and Rear AXEL WITH THE FULL TOP ON???????????????????????????????***
 

blwngsket

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Feb 19, 2007
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315
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Novato
Hey blwngskt, Do you have any pics of the Currie Sway Bar on yours? I've heard of people running them before but haven't seen pics.


Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner. I got it from Rubicon express. It's the universal kit. Here's the link to my build thread on Norcal

http://www.norcalbroncos.com/forum/showpost.php?p=62283&postcount=720

http://www.norcalbroncos.com/forum/showpost.php?p=62559&postcount=731

http://www.norcalbroncos.com/forum/showpost.php?p=62602&postcount=740
 

mavereq

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Feb 19, 2009
Messages
2,092
i'm going to set mine up like blwngsket's. i want to put one on the front but i haven't quite figured it out yet. i am going to try the isuzu rodeo torsion bar instead of buying the kit from currie.
 

blwngsket

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Feb 19, 2007
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Check out Dean Reed's stuff. I think it's called Bad Ass 4x4. Or maybe it's Kick Ass 4x4 He does sway bars and axles. His stuff is pimp.
 
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KennyB

KennyB

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OK, Now, Upper Links OUTSIDE Frame, Located at Front Bracket of Leaf Spring.... Moving the axel back 1 inch... Got the Anti Squat and Pinion angles... I really DONT get the other stuff... as far as Getting strentgth with the spead of the Upper & lower links on the Axels, I think this is stronger than 1 little pin, and 4 U-Bolts
 

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KennyB

KennyB

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Or, this works with Parallel Upper Links Under the Frame I worked the specs with (-) and (+) 5" articulation. I have Both types of Upper link frame Mounting brackets comming from Ballistic...
 

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KennyB

KennyB

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Ok, I got it.. 42% Anti Squat, Roll Center or 19, 1 Degree of oversteer, Pinion only changes .5* per inch of travel..... And Lots Of Room for Exhaust! I have to Build a Forward crossmember, that drops lower link forward mount down 4". Lower Links are 42", and the uppers are 70% at 29.5"
 

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KennyB

KennyB

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after Reading for Days, and Days, Working a 4 Link Calculator back, and forth... Reading Articles here, and at Pirate 4x4... Compromising High Static Anti-Squat, Roll Center height, Roll Axis Angle, for a Low Pinion Degree Change... I'm Exhausted,... And still working on it, Double Transverse Triangulation... Trying to keep less than 1 Degree Pinion, Long 43 " lowers, 32" uppers, 70% + Anti-Squat, less than 5 Degree Roll Axis Angle... I still cant find what’s worse? Low Anti-Squat? Low Roll Center? High Degree Pinion Angle? WOW, Kicken My Ass....:cry:
 

mavereq

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 19, 2009
Messages
2,092
just use adjustable brackets on your uppers for the frame and axle. if you can swap mounting holes then you can fine tune the suspension later. if you don't then you have to cut brackets and reweld stuff if you want to change anything.
 
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KennyB

KennyB

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1972 Bronco, Body Off Resto, Blown 302, Daily Driver, 99% Street, 1% off Road... daily Driver, Carpet, Pwr Windows, A/C
35" Tires 3.5" Sup. 2" BL ( I Doubt it has +/- 7" Travel)

32" Upper
Frame End x 32 y 11 z 25
Axel End x 0 y 4 z 26.5
40" Lower
Frame End x 40 y 13 z 20
Axel End x 2.5 z 24 z 16

Static Anti-Squat 60*
Roll Center Height 26"
Roll Axis Angle -1*
Pinion Change: at 7" Bump 6.84*
Pinion Change: at -7" Droop 5.18*
 

Quick & Dirty

Sr. Member
Joined
Feb 15, 2004
Messages
828
Low anti-squat isn't really an issue for a street driver. Many stock vehicles have low anti-squat setups. I remember a lot of old 70's land-yachts would drop down and almost drag the bumper when the throttle was stabbed. High anti-squat lifts the rear to help plant the tires with extra traction on hard acceleration, but it certainly isn't necessary. Off-road, high anti-squat will cause the suspension to extend on steep climbs, reducing stability, and making it act stiffer over the terrain.

Roll axis angle is more important to handling feel. A degree or two of roll understeer is most stable feeling. When the body rolls side to side the axles steer like a skateboard.
If you take a tight right hand turn the body flops over to the left. With roll understeer the tires on the right get farther apart, making it turn wider, so you turn the steering wheel more to maintain your line. This is a natural instinctive reaction.
With roll oversteer a right turn makes the tires on the right get closer together, making it turn tighter, increasing body roll and making it turn tighter still. You have to back off the steering wheel to maintain your line. With oversteer you end up sawing back and forth on the wheel trying to follow the turn. Most important is a roll center that doesn't move around too quickly as the suspension moves. This makes the vehicle feel unstable.

Roll center height is also a consideration. A high roll center reduces the amount of body roll on side hills or cornering. When the axle articulates, the stuffed tire moves away from the body. A low roll center will stuff the tire into the wheel well. A high roll center causes jacking forces which make it more likely to lift the inside wheel. (there are some pictures on Pirate of guys doing donuts with a front wheel off the ground). A low roll center may be more likely to slide a tire in a corner rather than lift and tip. Most important is a roll center that doesn't move around too quickly as the suspension moves. This makes a vehicle feel unstable.
 
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