'67 refresh

[Slackkinhard]

Well, it shouldn't be in there, but I can't think of how it might hurt anything.
It could easily become tilted inside there because there's no longer a spring to keep it in place. But again I'm not really sure what that would hurt.
If you leave it in I guess we will find out!

It's held in place by the spindle nut, and when I removed it from the drum brake assembly, it had grease packed into the void in the mating surface. I just figured that was part of it's purpose and it would keep grease from migrating out the cylinder better than nothing at all. Sourced some new spindle nuts and retorqued assembly to 100lbs following directions above. Will check up on it later.
Routing brake lines tonite. Routing to prop valve isn't straight forward...need to bend stuff without screwing it up.

thanks for input. Greatly appreciate it
Brett

 

[DirtDonk]

We must be talking about different things then. I don't suppose you took a picture of it while it was out? The spring seat I'm thinking of can come in and out independent of the spindle nut. The inner nut is called the "wheel bearing adjusting nut" and as far as I remember there's nothing between it and the bearing.
Only other thing is that locking ring with all the holes in it in between The inner adjusting and the outer locking nuts.
At least I can't think of anything underneath the inner nut.

(edited for word correction. Wasn't paying attention close enough on my phone)

 

[Slackkinhard]

I'll pull one out and take a picture later tonite. Currently, I've completed the brake install and I need to put brake fluid in the reservoir and bleed the system. The kit I got refers to, but didn't come with that little plastic fitting for the proportioning valve. Is there a garage solution for this or do I need to buy that thing?

Any other tips for bleeding greatly appreciated. I've bled the master cylinder by routing some hoses back into the reservoir and no more bubbles, but now I'm confused

 

[DirtDonk]

Hate to make you take it out on my account. Bit of a hassle, but I'd hate to see something become dislodged inside there too.

Strange that there was no pressure differential switch included. They're usually pre-installed in the new proportioning valves. Even though most EB owners would have one already (unless it was tossed out or lost in a pile of other parts), the new ones are not the same as the originals from at least the '67 to '75 vintage Broncos.
But the good news is that this area does not leak fluid. Or should not at least. Not a bad thing to keep it plugged of course, if for no other reason than to keep junk out. But you should be able to bleed the brakes without it.
Not sure if it is the same as a standard pipe thread, but you could take it down to the local hardware store to see if any pipe plugs fit into the hole.

For bleeding the rest of the system, just as on all other setups you start at the farthest corner, the right-rear. Then the left-rear, then right-front, then left-front. Fairly straightforward other than the proportioning, or "combination valve" as they're called.
Does yours have the spring-loaded push or pull pin under a rubber boot on one end? If you're not sure you can upload a pic to your garage or gallery.
If it does have one, then the only odd thing about bleeding is that you have to pull (or push) that pin and rig up a way to hold it in that position while bleeding. At least for the front brakes. Should not matter for the rears, but it's a delay valve, or metering valve, that restricts fluid to the front brakes until the system reaches a certain pressure. A bit finicky when bleeding, but it's a nice feature otherwise.

Paul

 

[Slackkinhard]

Hate to make you take it out on my account. Bit of a hassle, but I'd hate to see something become dislodged inside there too.

Strange that there was no pressure differential switch included. They're usually pre-installed in the new proportioning valves. Even though most EB owners would have one already (unless it was tossed out or lost in a pile of other parts), the new ones are not the same as the originals from at least the '67 to '75 vintage Broncos.
But the good news is that this area does not leak fluid. Or should not at least. Not a bad thing to keep it plugged of course, if for no other reason than to keep junk out. But you should be able to bleed the brakes without it.
Not sure if it is the same as a standard pipe thread, but you could take it down to the local hardware store to see if any pipe plugs fit into the hole.

For bleeding the rest of the system, just as on all other setups you start at the farthest corner, the right-rear. Then the left-rear, then right-front, then left-front. Fairly straightforward other than the proportioning, or "combination valve" as they're called.
Does yours have the spring-loaded push or pull pin under a rubber boot on one end? If you're not sure you can upload a pic to your garage or gallery.
If it does have one, then the only odd thing about bleeding is that you have to pull (or push) that pin and rig up a way to hold it in that position while bleeding. At least for the front brakes. Should not matter for the rears, but it's a delay valve, or metering valve, that restricts fluid to the front brakes until the system reaches a certain pressure. A bit finicky when bleeding, but it's a nice feature otherwise.

Paul

I'm sorry, I didn't explain well. The prop valve that came with the TBP kit did come with a switch to connect into brake light, however when I read the directions it talks about a little plastic fitting that you replace that switch during initial bleeding, then put the switch back when done. I look on their website and they show what looks like a little $5.99 tiny plastic bottle. Similar to an eyedropper. All I can figure is that it keeps a passage open during initial fill of the prop valve. Not sure, it just tells me to do it

 

[DirtDonk]

You probably said it fine and I just didn't understand. You're talking about the bleeding tool that is just plastic and that eyedropper part is solid and sticks down inside in order to block the little shuttle from moving side to side.
That movement has been the bane of our existence ever since the first person bled the brakes on a bronco! When it moves the one side and stays there, and resists the re-centering process, the light on the dash stays lit and it's very annoying.

You might be able to fabricate something, but that tool can come in handy.
Might even be able to get it at a local auto parts store. Maybe…

 

[Slackkinhard]

You probably said it fine and I just didn't understand. You're talking about the bleeding tool that is just plastic and that eyedropper part is solid and sticks down inside in order to block the little shuttle from moving side to side.
That movement has been the bane of our existence ever since the first person bled the brakes on a bronco! When it moves the one side and stays there, and resists the re-centering process, the light on the dash stays lit and it's very annoying.

You might be able to fabricate something, but that tool can come in handy.
Might even be able to get it at a local auto parts store. Maybe…

I uploaded a couple pics to my garage of that grease retainer/spring seat. Without the spring, it is loose in there. Just floats. I can't really see it causing any problems, but I don't think I'm going to put it back. As a grease shield, it's probably got minimal value.
I was able to bleed the brakes and get everything painted and put back together. Test drive next dry day

 

[DirtDonk]

Good call. Trouble or not, it does not belong in there without the spring that it's a seat for.
No reason to think of it as a grease shield. No reason to keep grease separated. All the bearings will be packed, the cavity loaded up a bit, and all the splines thoroughly lubed with the same grease.
It's shared space.

Paul

 

[Slackkinhard]

Any suggestions on a wiper setup? I long ago took the vacuum pumps off, and plugged the holes with a rubber stopper. In socal and baja, I never really needed them. I would just wax the window well and it usually sufficed...usually. Here in the rain forests of the PNWet, I need wipers. I know some are un-sync'd, which baffles me...whaddya do, just let them clank together once in a while? I don't understand that. Not real sure where to source anything else, but I ran the wires when I tied up the loom. I've seen a kit that required drilling the lower windshield frame....not sure the advantage, but would like to avoid drilling more holes if realistic
again, any thoughts greatly appreciated

 

[Slackkinhard]

Today was supposed to be maiden run....didn't leave garage.

Finally stopped raining and dried up enough to get excited. I had changed the oil, and cranked it without the coil wire connected to prime everything. Plugged in and started it up. Fired to life immediately. Sat and idled, a bit slow, but hasn't run in ten years. Revved it up a little bit and sounded good. Saw some water drips, cranked down on the clamps. All seemed ok, brake pedal stiff. Then when I gave it some more gas it blubbered and died. I hit starter and it just cranked a bunch. Then it seemed like it 'dragged' a couple times and I heard liquid dripping. I look under truck and gas is dripping from the header coupling to the tail pipe. Not sure what to do now? Was going to pull plugs and see what I see

Any thoughts?

 

[kylakekevin]

I run the un synchronized wiper motors on mine but I do t really drive it in the rain. If I was doing this again I would get the synchronized ones. As for as the no crank sounds like you lost spark.

 

[Slackkinhard]

I run the un synchronized wiper motors on mine but I do t really drive it in the rain. If I was doing this again I would get the synchronized ones. As for as the no crank sounds like you lost spark.

Thanks for input. What happens when they get unsynchronized? Do they just whack into each other? I assume there is some sort of adjustment? Always kinda wondered how that works. The stock setup has an arm between them.

I pulled the plugs from the drivers side and although they were damp, they didn't look abnormal. Since all the gas is coming from that drivers side, I figured I'd find something strange, but not really. I dried the plugs off and reinstalled, hit the starter and it idled for a minute, then bogged out and died. It's acting like the carb is letting the fuel pump overflow into cylinders and getting pushed out into the pipe. Not sure why only the drivers side though. A lot more fuel than I would expect. Kinda like a stuck float on a motorcycle.

Is it possible now that I've installed the brake booster that the manifold pressure is too low for carb to work proper?

 

[DirtDonk]

Then when I gave it some more gas it blubbered and died. I hit starter and it just cranked a bunch. Then it seemed like it 'dragged' a couple times and I heard liquid dripping. I look under truck and gas is dripping from the header coupling to the tail pipe.

At this point you're sure it's gasoline and not coolant/water?
Either way, the liquid coming out means that too much is in the combustion chambers, which would also explain the dragging feel during starter cranking.
If you heard it dripping, it's a LOT! Which seems more like coolant, because I can't imagine what it would take to get that much gas into the engine in such a short time.

For gas, the float needle can get stuck open from it's seat, or the float itself can be stuck down. This would let gas flow into the car in an uncontrolled manner from the fuel pump.
This can cause enough to go into the engine that some would conceivably flow out the exhaust ports and into the headers where you see it leak out. But to "hydraulic" an engine (the action of liquid in the cylinders keeping the starter from being able to turn the engine over due to liquid not compressing) takes a lot of fluid. Much more than normally I would think a fuel pump capable of putting out.
But hey, it's a new pump so anything could happen I suppose! And maybe I'm not able to follow the timeline on this event and it actually did take longer and give the fluid enough time to flow into the engine.
Either way, pulling the plugs is a good idea. If you do and then crank the engine you will probably see lots of liquid shooting out of the plug holes.

If it's gas, the only place it can come from is down through the carb and into the intake. If it's water/coolant, it can be a blown head or intake gasket. Or worse, a crack in a head or the block.
None of which are good things, but some of which are not the end of the world either.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[Rustytruck]

As for getting around the plastic tool to keep the brake valve centered on the pre 76 brake block remove the brake light plunger switch and put a 6-32 small screw in the center hole make sure the screw doesnt bottom to the head then screw in a fine thread 5/16 bolt to touch the small screw you put in before it. don't tighten more than finger tight. this will keep the spool valve centered. for the valve to go off center it has to push up the center. the small screw doesnt thread in its just a spacer for the bolt above. the fine thread bolt 5/16 24 is there to keep the center from rising. that is assuming the brake switch is centered before you start.

 

[Slackkinhard]

good info on the brake bleed. Since my entire system was brand new, I just opened the furthest nipple and let it gravity drain. When all four were complete, I gave it a couple pumps on each and it was solid.

I went and wacked the carb with a ballpeen hammer, then it started up ran fine. Idled a bit low, but some tuning will fix. Blew some gas out the pipes and I was happy. Shut it down and attempted to start it this morning and it just cranks.

 

[kylakekevin]

The wipers don't hit there spaced far enough apart. On the 67s there was no arm connecting the two they were separate vacuums motors

 

[Slackkinhard]

Well, I wacked the carb a couple more times and it fired to life. I guess its time to take it apart and clean it up. Not many bolts left untouched. Hopefully weather holds and I'll go for a ride tomorrow.

 

[Slackkinhard]

maiden ride around the block went without issue! First mile for quite some time. Fun Fun Smile Smile
Now the 'go over everything one last time' before I take it to someone that can help with some rusty sheet metal

 

[Slackkinhard]

Been a few months, but I'm back to it. Decided to buy a welder and do it myself. Fixed the rear tire mount and did away with some cancer. Still got plenty to go, but it's going. I started working with the seats cuz I'm not sure about how I'm going to mount them and whether I should build some hard points. Original '67...I tore off the old upholstery, sanded, primed, painted everything metal and bought an upholstery kit. This is where I'm looking for some advice. The wires inside the upholstery come with this 'paper' material wrapped around them. Well all that was a mess and had to go, but I'm not sure what I should use to replace it before installation into the new upholstery? I figure it provided some abrasion resistance. Not sure what to do now that it's time to reassemble?

Any thoughts?

 

[Slackkinhard]

another question about seats is mounting. Seems there has been all kinds of things mounted in my rig prior to me owning it. So many holes, and none of them line up properly to the stock seats. That part baffles me because I've found some threaded bosses that could be considered 'closer' to being aligned to something on the seat frame.
Is there a better setup? Just make my own? Sliders?