Heater Motor Upgrade

[sykanr0ng]

Some have used the newer bigger motor with the stock blower cage, so that is an option.

 

[mudders]

I did the upgrade it requires a little trimming but we'll worth it! It's a carquest part # that I used.

 

[Eoth]

I just got done with mine. It was blowing "ok" but not much heat. I pulled the core out and found that it was clogged both internally and externally. I cleaned everything and it works great.

 

[work765]

Thanks Paul. I thought I remembered reading some posts further back on this thread that said: guys were using the existing squirrel cage with the new f150 or Chevy motor. And I don't recall exactly, I will have to go back and read. Also that you don't have to cut up your box to put one in.
Regarding a cooling system flush. I haven't done one since I've had the truck, but it does have an aluminum radiator from previous owner. Not sure if the install of that would constitute a flush?

Regarding putting a new heater core on. I was all for the idea after reading lots of threads here but then ran it by my mechanic for a a second opinion. And he said what's the point if it's not leaking. I.e. As if that's the only thing that could be wrong with the core.

As far as how it is now. If on high it pumps out some warm air. But it's just kind down by the feet. You can't really even feel a real draft per say. And the air is not hot. It's just warm air kind swirling down under the dash. It's enough for a tad bit of heat in the "cold" SoCal mornings. but I've been thinking about heading to the snow. And I know I would be a Popsicle in there for sure.

 

[work765]

I just got done with mine. It was blowing "ok" but not much heat. I pulled the core out and found that it was clogged both internally and externally. I cleaned everything and it works great.

Externally= cleaned away the leafs and debri?
Internally= do you mean a flush or internal in the heater box?

 

[msommer001]

Wow! This is a long thread. I am trying to take it all in but seem to be running in circles. I would like to update my heater blower with the least amount of modifications/trimming possible, what is my best option?

From what I read, it seem like I can replace the motor only and get a much better system without have to replace the cage as well. If replace the motor only, what motor is the best fit or closest replacement? I read that some motors are too long and might need a spacer.
If I replace both motor and cage, which combination requires the least amount of modifications/trimmings.

Sorry, but I need it simple.

 

[bronconut73]

Wow! This is a long thread. I am trying to take it all in but seem to be running in circles. I would like to update my heater blower with the least amount of modifications/trimming possible, what is my best option?

From what I read, it seem like I can replace the motor only and get a much better system without have to replace the cage as well. If replace the motor only, what motor is the best fit or closest replacement? I read that some motors are too long and might need a spacer.
If I replace both motor and cage, which combination requires the least amount of modifications/trimmings.

Sorry, but I need it simple.

Check out Paul (Dirtdonk) link.
WH sells the stock set up and the upgrade.

 

[ECEB]

I have very little experience working on cars and I was able to rebuild the heater box with the Chevy motor and squirrel cage upgrade. A few vendors sell the reseal kit. It also might make sense to change out the heater core.

I also changed out the metal valve that usually rots out (mine was done).

 

[Crawdad]

Subscribed!

 

[1strodeo]

Ordered a motor & cage today, hope to be able to do the swap without removing the box. I replaced the heater core not a month ago but didn't know about this upgrade.

 

[1strodeo]

Got it installed last night, blows great, smelled kinda funky the first 10 mins or so blowing who knows what out of it. The High setting is louder than it was before but when you're freezing, who cares? I only had to dremel about 1/4" all the way around the box opening to fit the larger wheel.

...and like many other things on Broncos, the ground to the dash is only temporary ;D

 

[DirtDonk]

Our motto: "Temporary... Unless it works!"%);D

Paul

 

[RT]

Our motto: "Temporary... Unless it works!"%);D

Paul

Hah! Over half my Bronco is "temporary",,,,, but it works,,, more or less

 

[sprdv1]

Hah! Over half my Bronco is "temporary",,,,, but it works,,, more or less

LOL, no doubt.. Just "keep" working please

 

[charlie6976]

Why is it so hard to sometimes just find "temporary''?

 

[Capertrj]

Haven't had heat since I got my 76. Now that I have my daily driver back I'm going to tackle this. My heater control valve was frozen but some wd40 loosened her up. All controls work. I have a spare radiator that was cleaned and recored as well. Currently the motor doesn't get above 170. It was previously in Hawaii and Texas so I'm thinking the PO put a lower temp in with the hot weather. I tried covering half the radiator with some cardboard and temp rose a little but not enough. Plan is to change the thermostat, radiator, heater core, bigger motor and cage. Anything else I should do while I'm doing all of this? Any tips? Thanks!

 

[DirtDonk]

Make sure that you have good air flow through the heater core.
Definitely get the hotter thermostat. My heater was pretty weak at 170 too. Maybe even go up a notch if you have, or are planning EFI. Stock for earlier models was 180, but not sure if that held true for the '76 too, or if they were already experimenting with 195's for smog reasons. The higher temps let the fuel burn more efficiently, but that was encouraged mainly after they started improving combustion chamber designs. So not sure if yours was there or not, but I would perhaps experiment with the 195 to see if it works and you don't have pinging.
I forget where you are located, but if it's a colder climate, the hotter thermostat shouldn't do anything bad, but be quite helpful.

Make sure your heater control valve is still flowing well too. Even if it's open it could be clogged. Especially if it's the older metal style vs the newer plastic.

Paul

 

[Crush]

That ground can go to the metal back side of the heater box. The botls that hold it to the firewall will ground it. That is how mine was when i removed it and i think it had not ever been removed

 

[Capertrj]

Make sure that you have good air flow through the heater core.
Definitely get the hotter thermostat. My heater was pretty weak at 170 too. Maybe even go up a notch if you have, or are planning EFI. Stock for earlier models was 180, but not sure if that held true for the '76 too, or if they were already experimenting with 195's for smog reasons. The higher temps let the fuel burn more efficiently, but that was encouraged mainly after they started improving combustion chamber designs. So not sure if yours was there or not, but I would perhaps experiment with the 195 to see if it works and you don't have pinging.
I forget where you are located, but if it's a colder climate, the hotter thermostat shouldn't do anything bad, but be quite helpful.

Make sure your heater control valve is still flowing well too. Even if it's open it could be clogged. Especially if it's the older metal style vs the newer plastic.

Paul

Thanks Paul. Virginia Beach VA so summers can get hot and humid, 115+ heat index possible. No future plans for EFI, carb is running good. My engine runs really rich so going higher tstat might help burn better. I have the metal control valve. Now that you mention it I will just get a new one. I guess I can flush the motor while I'm changing everything. Researching serpentine setup and seems it's easier with radiator out so trying to come up with a plan. When my 01 F150 bites the dust I might make my 76 my DD. Just trying to plan.

 

[Capertrj]

Winter is coming. Order seal kit, temp control valve, 195 t stat which should be in tomorrow.

Pulled box, drilled out rivets, sanded, primed ready to go. The ground in on the bottom of dash. Chevy motor has one terminal. What’s a good spot for ground? I started going through thread but didn’t see after ten pages. Figure bump and ask.