Maybe it isn't cold enough to tell yet, but my heater runs me out of the truck. I have to cut the heat way back (push the knob way in) or it is too hot in the truck. Running the fan on low. I did buy a new motor from Rock Auto for $30. The squirrel cage is the stock one. Had a couple of fins broken, but it blows its ass off. I did rebuild the heater box and install a new heater core. I guess as soon as we have some mornings below 30 I will know more. I have only had three mornings so far and they have been the low 30's.
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Heater Motor Upgrade
- Thread starter HotWheels
- Start date
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- Aug 23, 2007
- Messages
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Driving through 20 below temps for more than a few hours will make you appreciate a good heater. Even the Chevy motor on high speed is barely enough to keep you comfortable.
Just FYI, I bought a new motor and cage from Rock auto. The motor is great. The cage diameter was too large to fit into the heater box (unless I took the box apart which isn't going to happen again anytime soon). There were three brand cages. I just picked one, I think that shipped from the same warehouse as the motor to save shipping. Ended up to be bad pick.
sykanr0ng
Bronco Guru
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/\/\/\ Why I'm adding seat heaters besides upgrading the heater blower.
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- Mar 8, 2007
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doghows72
Bronco Guru
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- Jan 5, 2005
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Just went by this list of numbers posted earlier?
Actual flow numbers from my post on 1/3/06
Here are some numbers for those of you that prefer actual data to ambiguous “feels more, better, etc”
For this test I used a 2/10/60 amp battery charger for the power supply direct to the blower motor (no low speed test only high), using upgrade blower pn 35587 and fan pn 35602 mentioned in other posts.
I built an air box and measured the air flow out of the heater box and through a 6” opening with an airflow meter. For true ft^3/min I suspect the numbers should be cut in half.
Stock junkyard heater box: 831ft/min avg at 5.6 amps 12.38volts
Swap fan only: 1036 ft/min avg
Swap fan and motor: 1180ft/min avg at 10.3 amps 10.9 volts
(Those of you who suspected a possible current problem are correct).
Just for fun I switched the charger to 60 amps:
1430ft/min avg at 13 volts (amps not tested, didn’t want to fry my meter).
Mine is very noisy but I think that can be adjusted out by moving the fan back and forth on the motor shaft until it is quieter.
Here are some numbers for those of you that prefer actual data to ambiguous “feels more, better, etc”
For this test I used a 2/10/60 amp battery charger for the power supply direct to the blower motor (no low speed test only high), using upgrade blower pn 35587 and fan pn 35602 mentioned in other posts.
I built an air box and measured the air flow out of the heater box and through a 6” opening with an airflow meter. For true ft^3/min I suspect the numbers should be cut in half.
Stock junkyard heater box: 831ft/min avg at 5.6 amps 12.38volts
Swap fan only: 1036 ft/min avg
Swap fan and motor: 1180ft/min avg at 10.3 amps 10.9 volts
(Those of you who suspected a possible current problem are correct).
Just for fun I switched the charger to 60 amps:
1430ft/min avg at 13 volts (amps not tested, didn’t want to fry my meter).
Mine is very noisy but I think that can be adjusted out by moving the fan back and forth on the motor shaft until it is quieter.
Flhtrdr
New Member
Just got done with the upgrade and quite pleased with the results. The motor #35587 is the same part for advance auto and the motor looks the same as doghows does. The stock fan did not work so went to napa and got fan#6551406 which is about 1/2" shorter after making the hole a little larger everything went together ok.
Brent13
Sr. Member
I just finished my heater upgrade, wow, it cranks. All I did was went to auto parts store, and asked for a blower motor and cage for a 1992 Ford F250. Had to trim a lot of the motor flange, enlarge hole in heater box a lot, and I was in business. Also replace heater core and installed new seal kit. Seriously nice upgrade!
charlie6976
Sr. Member
Does this bring us to the thermostat? A 192* or 195* thermostat should give 12* to 15* more heater temperature (in the cab). Engine should be fine.
15* more in the cab is going to be nice. Comments?
charlie6976
Sr. Member
Does this bring us to the thermostat? A 192* or 195* thermostat should give 12* to 15* more heater temperature (in the cab). Engine should be fine.
15* more in the cab is going to be nice. Comments? Assuming you are using a 180* thermostat and you have that heat inside.
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- Aug 23, 2007
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I have a 195 and I'm sure it helped. Early Broncos just are not well insulated.
Brent13
Sr. Member
Like I stated, I just finished the upgrade. Going to drive Bronco to work tomorrow. Temps should be in the teens at best when I leave, I'll see how it keeps up. Think my issue now will be the holes I have in firewall and floor. Holes are from AC lines, and I need to get these patched.
My question. If my heater core isn't leaking or isn't damaged. Does getting a new one do anything?
I don't get a lot of heat out of mine. But it does put out some hot air. I don't want to replace things, just to replace. I was planing on checking to see if any debri is blocking it. Maybe I need a seal kit?
Does anyone have the correct fan motor that will fit without cutting up the heater box?
I don't get a lot of heat out of mine. But it does put out some hot air. I don't want to replace things, just to replace. I was planing on checking to see if any debri is blocking it. Maybe I need a seal kit?
Does anyone have the correct fan motor that will fit without cutting up the heater box?
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 47,711
Correct fan motor is simply buying one for an Early Bronco. http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/category/s?keyword=heater+motor
Any of the upgrades (that I'm aware of) require cutting because the squirrel cage is larger and simply won't fit into the plenum/heater box. If your heater box is out however, you could remove the back panel and insert the cage from the backside then attach the blower motor. Not as easy, but not a big deal.
The "big deal" comes later if you ever have to remove it for some reason. In which case you'd have to remove the entire assembly once again to access the back, or cut your larger hole in the front after all.
That said, even a stock replacement can make a big difference to a 40+ year old motor. So stock replacements might be worth a shot initially. If you're still not satisfied then you can upgrade later.
As for the core, whether a new one would do anything depends on whether anything is wrong with your old one. Damage or leaks alone are not the only things that effect heat output.
You should definitely still check for both blockage of the air flow, and blockage of the coolant flow. Both can get clogged up and both will definitely effect the amount of cooling you get.
If your cooling system has not been flushed for many years (arguably like most old trucks) then it's a good bet that you have at least reduced flow capacity. Whether a flush now will fix that or not, only trial and error will tell.
If it's corroded to near perforation, then a strong enough flush will cause it to leak. Even the hoses will get leaky with a chemical flush if the age and wear on them is great enough.
About the only thing that won't eventually rust through is the engine block itself. Everything else, with the exception of the intake manifold maybe, is subject to leaking.
But now's the time to find out.
What do you mean exactly by not getting a lot of heat? Even though you have air flow, is it strong and high volume? Is it hot for a few minutes then gradually cools down? Is the air flow strong, but your heat just isn't what you'd expect?
Paul
Any of the upgrades (that I'm aware of) require cutting because the squirrel cage is larger and simply won't fit into the plenum/heater box. If your heater box is out however, you could remove the back panel and insert the cage from the backside then attach the blower motor. Not as easy, but not a big deal.
The "big deal" comes later if you ever have to remove it for some reason. In which case you'd have to remove the entire assembly once again to access the back, or cut your larger hole in the front after all.
That said, even a stock replacement can make a big difference to a 40+ year old motor. So stock replacements might be worth a shot initially. If you're still not satisfied then you can upgrade later.
As for the core, whether a new one would do anything depends on whether anything is wrong with your old one. Damage or leaks alone are not the only things that effect heat output.
You should definitely still check for both blockage of the air flow, and blockage of the coolant flow. Both can get clogged up and both will definitely effect the amount of cooling you get.
If your cooling system has not been flushed for many years (arguably like most old trucks) then it's a good bet that you have at least reduced flow capacity. Whether a flush now will fix that or not, only trial and error will tell.
If it's corroded to near perforation, then a strong enough flush will cause it to leak. Even the hoses will get leaky with a chemical flush if the age and wear on them is great enough.
About the only thing that won't eventually rust through is the engine block itself. Everything else, with the exception of the intake manifold maybe, is subject to leaking.
But now's the time to find out.
What do you mean exactly by not getting a lot of heat? Even though you have air flow, is it strong and high volume? Is it hot for a few minutes then gradually cools down? Is the air flow strong, but your heat just isn't what you'd expect?
Paul
