My LS3/6L80e Engine Swap…..no haters please.🙏

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Yeller (or others)……. question about engine angle. When I put the 1” B-Lift on, I’ll be able to raise the transmission tail and shift the motor back about an inch (that’s all I need for the motor mounts). My concern is clearance on the harmonic balancer to the cross member. How much engine angle can I get away with?

Thjis pic shows where I’m at now.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

It’s at about 6-7 degrees right now

 

[Yeller]

In my opinion the 6-7 degrees is fairly normal. What you have to watch out for is can your front drive shaft work with the angle at the transfer case. Yours will be fairly long but can still be an issue. I had to build a high angle driveshaft on mine to get enough angle out of it. I never measured the angle mine sits at until now, it just got put where it fits, it’s at 6 degrees.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Here’s some pics from my console. It will be all black once finished.

 

[Yeller]

That’s nice!

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Yesterday we added the 1” body lift and it clearly helped the transmission tunnel issues. Regardless, we still couldn‘t get the engine located in the position we wanted (engine not far enough forward). The passenger side head cover continues to hit the firewall based on the motor mount bracket design. We have it in the furthest forward position for the engine, but it still hits the fire wall.

So we swapped out the mounts for a CJ LS swap mount. It brought the engine forward, but the bushings didn’t work quite right. We rigged up temporary bushings, but it still hits the passenger fire wall. The carriage bolt isn’t long enough so I ordered 2 1/2” longer bolts for the next trial. We also have different rubber bushings that we will likely try too. The engine is still a bit high, but that’s due to the temporary bushings.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Decided to go back at it today. I think I might have it.

Engine is at 5 degree slope,
Not hitting the firewall or front crossmember.

I have 7.5" from face of harmonic balancer to front of radiator.

I've got the transmission tail laterally located in the same previous location.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

I spoke too soon on Sunday about having the motor mount and engine placement all figured out. When I went to tighten the motor mount down, the rubber compressed enough to pull the front down into the harmonic balancer. Ultimately I knew the rubber bushings were too soft and this would be an issue over time.

So I went back to my previous hard urethane bushings and tried to get them to work. The previous issue was that they sat too high. I found that I hadn’t placed the engine as low as it could go, so I tried again. This time I found some success….but the motor still is running into the firewall at the passenger side valve cover. We have a solution to this by modifying the engine mount bracket.

The question I have is more about the motor mount bushings. I ended up double stacking them in order to get the right height. Here is a pic of the drivers side. I’m a bit worried that there’s too much bushing and that I should replace one of the sections with a metal spacer. I also don’t like the way the bushing “wraps” around the 1” notch we cut into the frame horn.

Any concerns with what I’m seeing or am I just being paranoid? I have some angle iron plates made to slide in that slot which would eliminate the wrap issue and allow the bushing to seat better on the modified horn.

 

[Yeller]

I would use a metal spacer and be done. more flexible material will settle more over time, less material sill settle less.

 

[DirtDonk]

Is the damper hitting the crossmember, or just the two bolts for the stabilizer?
If the bolts, you could shorten them a bit to help. Even using lower profile nuts and fewer washers if needed. Don't think I've seen them exactly like yours, but it's been awhile since I put a wrench (or eye) one them.

Got a pic of the clearance at the firewall for the driver's side valve cover?

Thanks

paul

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

OKAY……time to celebrate.

I have to first give props to Yeller. His plan on the motor mounts was right all along with the exception of one small detail. Here’s the backdrop.

Order:
1) ICT Billet #551628 LS swap mounting plates
2) Early styLe SBC motor mounts

Fab:
On existing Bronco Motor Mount “Horns”, cut 1” by 1” notch out of the top of the horn. Weld in 1” angle iron into the slot.

Mount:
Once you‘ve installed the LS swap parts, bolt it in.

Okay….so that’s where I‘ve run into problems. First it was the engine was too low. Then the valve covers were hitting the fire wall. I couldn’t get enough forward movement of the engine to clear both the firewall and the front crossmember. Something is wrong. Maybe my horns have been modified. This makes no since…………. I tried different motor mounts that moved the engine forward. Still not right.

I went back to Yeller’s plan. The light bulb went on. If I swap the ICT driver side plate and put it on the passenger side, it gives me the forward adjustment I need. Vice versa on the passenger to Driver side.

I did that today in 2 hours. Fit perfect. Torqued everything down. It’s now in place with plenty front clearance, firewall clearance, and engine angle is at 6 degrees.

Never doubt Yeller, but might want to remind him to flip the plates.

 

[Yeller]

Thanks for the props. I just need better notes. I build a lot and work a lot so sometimes things get done and it’s from memory and not a complete set of instructions long sleepless nights in the shop like last night

Stoked it worked out like had done in the past, I’ve flipped the mounts a few times to, just forgot.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Here's current engine placement.

 

[nvrstuk]

Looks great.


How's that all work for tie rods, track bars, drag links? Just asking as I'll have a "non-negotiable" IFS crossmember dictating whether I do firewall mounts & dependant on oil pan choices too. Hope it looks as nice as your fit does!

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

I see no clearance issues at all with any of the steering linkage. I did swap out the oil pan based on another LS Swap recommendation. It’s got good clearance too. I went with a Holley aluminum pan, but Yeller suggested a steel pan. Since I’m not off-roading, I wasn’t concerned with the risk.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

Next step is to install my transmission cross-member. I completed the design today and will have it in my hands on Friday. Once that’s in, I can call it done on the engine install.

Now that I’ve got the rear end parts ordered (35 spline 3rd member, 35 spline axles in small bearing housing, axle wrap, 1350 yokes, and new driveshafts to match), I need advice on the changes needed for the front end. My new rear 3rd member will have 410 gears, which won‘t work with the front end Dana 44 gearing. What upgrades do I need to consider for the front to handle the gear change and increased torque. Keep in mind, I will not be rock crawling!!! It’s a street cruiser that might see sand (beach) or mild off-road in 4WD.

My plan is to spend only what’s needed to make it work with my setup.

 

[1969]

For the front axle you’ll need Disk brakes, regear to 4.10s and you should be good imo.

 

[WPS 73 Bronco]

I’ve got front discs….that’s easy.

thanks

 

[Yeller]

4.10 gear swap is all that is needed in the front.

 

[m_m70]

What upgrades do I need to consider for the front to handle the gear change and increased torque. Keep in mind, I will not be rock crawling!!! It’s a street cruiser that might see sand (beach) or mild off-road in 4WD.

Change the gears to match. If you break your 44 with "mild" off road use it will be due to driver error.