Cam guys out there, rate this custom grind please

[Miker]

I have the opportunity to purchase a pretty sweet 347 stroker shortblock for less than a summit stroker kit, but, I would need a different camshaft to bring the powerband down. Any opinions out there as to this custom grind from Comp Cams?
Grind # FW 3610F/36114 HR110.0
valve Lift intake .513
valve lift exhaust .513
Duration .006
Tappet Lift intake 264
Tappet lift exhaust 270
valve timing .050
valve open intake 0
valve open exhaust 43
Valve closed exhaust 32
Valve closed exhaust 5-
Duration @ .050 Intake
Duration @ .050 Exhaust

I know some have said there are drawbacks to the 347 stroker but a killer deal is a killer deal. He's even gonna let my machine shop inspect it because he says it was only run long enough to seat the rings and never run beyond that.

 

[NYLES]

manual auto?

EFI carb?

what heads?

 

[DirtDonk]

Need a little more info Miker.

If this is only the cam info (and not specific to that engine) they don't know how much valve lift because they can't know what rocker ratio is being used.
So do you know what rocker arms are installed?

valve Lift intake .513
valve lift exhaust .513

This is decently stout, but probably not too radical for most heads to achieve with a little work. What heads are you going to be running?

Duration @ .050 Intake
Duration @ .050 Exhaust

There are some missing specs here. We're looking for the duration numbers that go here. The ".050" is where they're measured, but not the actual rating. Very important.
Is it possible that those "260" and "270" numbers are for the duration, rather than for the tappet lift? Frankly, for that amount of lift at the tappet to net you that .513" valve lift, you'd need something in the range of 1.90+ rockers! Unless I'm reading that incorrectly, which is entirely possible.


Paul

 

[Miker]

My bad guys. They asked all those questions except for manual or auto.
Comp cam rollers 1.6
Carb
older style trick flows
I think I gave you guys everything on the cam card they e-mailed me. I'll try to figure out how to paste and drop it in.

 

[Miker]

he said the power band would be 1,200 - 5,200 but with the extra cubes it would most likely translate into 800,1,000 to 5,000 rpm

 

[DirtDonk]

I bet the 264 and 270 readings are the duration numbers at zero lift. Makes more sense than if they were lift numbers, since they are asymmetrical while the valve lift numbers are symmetrical.
If they are, that doesn't sound to bad for a 347. Not too radical anyway.

Look for Lobe Separation Angles and Lobe Center numbers and things like that too. Those numbers can also tell the tale.

With just a 1200 to 5200 power band, I'd maybe just run the cam 4° advanced and see what how you like it.
But wait until we get the rest of the numbers just to make sure. No matter how much power you get, there is something real nice about having a smooth idle and decent gas mileage, when running around in a heavy Bronco. Hate to recommend a too-radical cam for you.
Doesn't sound too bad, but we'll see.

Paul

 

[englewoodcowboy]

That is similar to the cam specs for my 347 build. I am using GT40 heads and intake with an AOD behind it. The cam I have is comp 35-351-8 which according to the tech should get me well into the torque curve at 2000 rpm using an 1800 stall converter. I should build about 325 HP at the crank and 350 tq but my curve should build very fast off of idle and run flat with a sharp fall above 5500 rpm. I was advised to at most gasket match and that is it for a set of stock GT40 heads. The spring rate has been increased to match the cam and I am keeping the stock 1.6 ratio rockers but upgradingto roller tips. According to my machinist and a few other guys that build various engines, the trick flows or ARI heads are all relatively useless for my build because I am focusing it as 90% on road/daily driver and 10% off road. The high volume heads are better but in a low torque engine they said I would just be wasting the money. He also talked me into dish pistons to keep the copression ratio in the low 9's due to the fact that fuel is only going to get worse (as in quality) as the prices go up and the E85 crap is just that. I know this doesn't exactly answer your question but it may help you i deciding what to do. I chose to go 347 because that is the most cost effective mod to get more tq and that is what I need for what I am trying to do.

 

[broncnaz]

Should be fine for a 347. I'm not real big on the 110 lobe seperation(idle tends to be lopey) if thats what it has but with a carbed engine you should be fine. I'd probably install it straight up you shouldnt need extra lowend you get from advancing it as the extra stroke already make up for that. Should be decent running engine. especailly once you get it above 2500 RPM.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I changed the layout a bit for those who had trouble reading the OP.

Comp Cams
Grind # FW 3610F/36114 HR110.0

valve Lift
intake .513
exhaust .513

Duration @ .006 Tappet Lift (.010 @ valve w/ 1.6 rockers)
intake 264
exhaust 270

valve timing @ .050 lift
valve open intake 0
valve open exhaust 43
Valve closed exhaust 32
Valve closed exhaust 5-

Duration @ .050 Intake (missing)
Duration @ .050 Exhaust (missing)

 

[Madgyver]

I'd stay away from custom grinds but that's just me. Usually they are cut to a particular motor build. Trying to match it with your motor may be different.

 

[Miker]

Thanks guys, now it looks like the guy is second guessing himself on the sale. So, we'll see where it goes from here. Arghh.