• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Bronco won’t start- need your help!

OP
OP
White Knight

White Knight

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
May 31, 2005
Messages
501
4XFUN..... battery checked out ... to be sure, I took a battery from my son's car that is new and still nothing
 

Oldtimer

Contributor
Jr. Member with Sr. moments
Joined
Feb 4, 2005
Messages
877
Loc.
Sunnyvale, CA
There are two plug in connectors on the alternator and one small post which has a black with yellow stipe wire connected to the post. that black and yellow wire is part of a harness from the dash and has been that way for the 23 years I have owned it... circled in picture the harness that comes from dash that the black with yellow stripe wire is part of that end up connecting to a small (only) post on the alternator
BINGO

The black/yellow 10GA wire on alternator,
takes charging current from alternator,
to dash where it,
has splice connections to ignition switch and headlight switch,
then thru ammeter loop and ends at a bullet connector.
The bullet connector is connected to black 10GA wire that runs out to battery post on starter relay.
If black wire is compromised, or bullet connector is in poor condition, 12 volts cannot get from battery back to ignition switch, and nothing works.

PO installed an alternator with internal regulator. These typically put out more then original 38 amp alternator and will overload 10GA wire in harness. You've been lucky for 23 years.

Minimum repair:
Replace black wire, add a fusible link at starter relay battery post, AND verify condition of bullet connector behind instrument cluster.
You can see it if you are flexible enough to get on floor amd look up at dash.
Easier acces is to remove fresh air vent from cowl and look at back of cluster.

1710384547663.png
 

Oldtimer

Contributor
Jr. Member with Sr. moments
Joined
Feb 4, 2005
Messages
877
Loc.
Sunnyvale, CA
The effectiveness is based on the gage, not the length.
A couple of inches should do.
You do not want to bundle them in a harness.
Theye are designed to burn out and protect the rest of the wire run, and you dont want it bundle against other wires when it burns.

 
Last edited:

Oldtimer

Contributor
Jr. Member with Sr. moments
Joined
Feb 4, 2005
Messages
877
Loc.
Sunnyvale, CA
that large gauge wire is a 4 gauge wire on a fuseable line to my stereo amp
What size fuse for your stereo amplifier circuit?
The reason I ask is 4GA wire, with minimal voltge drop for amplifier, would indicate a 100 amp circuit?
If the amp needs that much current and the alternator is capable of supplying it, all that current will try to flow thru the 10GA stock harness.
You may want to upgrade the alternator harness and direct wire to the battery.
 
OP
OP
White Knight

White Knight

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
May 31, 2005
Messages
501
got the 10 gauge wire spliced in the 2 wires (yellow & black) then have the other end spliced in 14 gsuge fuseable wire connecting it to the solenoid. Car started up, ran long enough to pull it out of the garage then died and back to nothing...not a click. Checked all the wires ...all are in tack.
 
OP
OP
White Knight

White Knight

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
May 31, 2005
Messages
501
got the 10 gauge wire spliced in the 2 wires (yellow & black) then have the other end spliced in 14 gsuge fuseable wire connecting it to the solenoid. Car started up, ran long enough to pull it out of the garage then died and back to nothing...not a click. Checked all the wires ...all are in tack.
As far as the amp..... it has been running this way for 5 years .... no problems
 
OP
OP
White Knight

White Knight

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
May 31, 2005
Messages
501
with a test light ----i should have it clipped to neg on battery and when touching fusible link with probe it should light up showing power flowing through it.....correct?
 

Oldtimer

Contributor
Jr. Member with Sr. moments
Joined
Feb 4, 2005
Messages
877
Loc.
Sunnyvale, CA
That means you have power from battery to dash, and back out to alternator.
Do headlights work?
Do accessories (amp, radio, turn signal, etc.) turn on when key is in accessories position?
 
OP
OP
White Knight

White Knight

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
May 31, 2005
Messages
501
No— frustrating. Started right up, sat for awhile at idle then just stopped.
 

Oldtimer

Contributor
Jr. Member with Sr. moments
Joined
Feb 4, 2005
Messages
877
Loc.
Sunnyvale, CA
Check black/yellow wire at alternator post, with headlight switch in off AND on positions.
You may have a poor connection that will show power, until load is applied.
 

ba123

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 29, 2022
Messages
1,729
Loc.
CA
GREAT news that you got it started, nice help from @Oldtimer

It's a bad connection somewhere or a something shorting out.
 
OP
OP
White Knight

White Knight

Contributor
Sr. Member
Joined
May 31, 2005
Messages
501
I can’t figure it out- I have checked every wire involved ….it started up tan high for about 30 seconds then settled into good idle . Then just died…… now back to nothing…… no lights, turn signals, radio
 

ba123

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 29, 2022
Messages
1,729
Loc.
CA
Check that wire going to the ignition switch again.

I would bet that somewhere after that bullet connector, you have a short.
 
Top