When I get the bronco back ill take a better look with a bunch more pictures right when I get home. The lift is over 3.5 I think its a 5.5 inch lift. Ill take a better look at the placement as well I know its a borla system but that doesn't matter when it comes to placement. I was going to add maybe a 1 inch spacer or as small as I can get because it still rubs a little with 35s on it.
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Need Help With possible reason why bronco won't start
- Thread starter psehring
- Start date
SteveL
Huge chevy guy
I say pull off the fitech and run a q-jet.
Just kidding inside joke. Wild horses sell a nice 1" body lift kit. It gives that extra bit of clearance without the big gap front and rear.
Just kidding inside joke. Wild horses sell a nice 1" body lift kit. It gives that extra bit of clearance without the big gap front and rear.
Eoth
Bronco Guru
- Joined
- Mar 10, 2004
- Messages
- 1,678
The Fitech unit has an internal regulator.. It is normal to have a pump capable of exceeding its minimum requirements (the pump in their kit makes 90 PSI). Lots of posts out there on different pumps to use with Fitech systems (mostly related to noise).
Yeah I'm not sure im going to let them give this a shot with a lower psi fuel regulator since its cheap and hopefully it can run till the end of the summer then I can add all the rest to it. I wanted to do a full custom red, diamond stitched interior but looks like ill be doing a bunch of stuff y'all recommended instead.
I am going to need yawls help once again. I might have a huge problem because my contract has said 351w I have been going with that and buying all my parts for that. The shop it at now believes I have a 302 stroked to a 347. What is the easiest way I can 100 percent check. I know dirtydonk was trying to help with this a little while ago I just wanted to make sure that was 100 percent.
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If you can post some good pictures of the front and top of the engine it will be easy to tell the difference between a 302 and 351W.
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2009
- Messages
- 6,253
I just noticed the one engine picture you already posted on page 2, That looks like a 351W, a little better picture and we can tell you for sure.
Broncobowsher
Total hack
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2002
- Messages
- 34,947
2 quick places to look. Intake mounting bolts to the heads. Measure side to side. 9" is a 302 based engine, 11" is a 351 based engine.
Even easier is to look at the distributor to intake. The top of the block right above the distributor to the intake manifold. That edge to the distributor mounting surface. If it is nearly flush, maybe ¼", that is a 302. But if that distance is over an inch, that is a 351 engine.
You cannot go by firing order. The 302 and 351 have different firing orders but a cam swap will change that. the firing order is dictated by the cam profile and the cams interchange. Sometimes a desired grind is only offered in one firing order but not the other. Even Ford played this game when the 302 went to the HO version, the firing order changed to the 351 version. 302 cams were historicly cheaper and more options existed, so a lot of 351s got 302 cams.
Even easier is to look at the distributor to intake. The top of the block right above the distributor to the intake manifold. That edge to the distributor mounting surface. If it is nearly flush, maybe ¼", that is a 302. But if that distance is over an inch, that is a 351 engine.
You cannot go by firing order. The 302 and 351 have different firing orders but a cam swap will change that. the firing order is dictated by the cam profile and the cams interchange. Sometimes a desired grind is only offered in one firing order but not the other. Even Ford played this game when the 302 went to the HO version, the firing order changed to the 351 version. 302 cams were historicly cheaper and more options existed, so a lot of 351s got 302 cams.
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 47,645
The picture in post #51 is hard to tell, but the one in post #50 looks like a 351 to me.
Note the higher block ridge/china rail that was mentioned earlier. That ridge looks to be about an inch above the distributor base flange. Indicating a 351 block.
But you can measure from where you are and we can't. So to be sure you can get eyeballs on that area just behind the distributor base, where it enters the block.
Paul
Note the higher block ridge/china rail that was mentioned earlier. That ridge looks to be about an inch above the distributor base flange. Indicating a 351 block.
But you can measure from where you are and we can't. So to be sure you can get eyeballs on that area just behind the distributor base, where it enters the block.
Paul
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2009
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- 6,253
Yep, that's a 351W.
SteveL
Huge chevy guy
Not a sure way to tell but the ps bracket looks to have a 351w adapter where it bolts to the head.
And...FWIW....if the shop cant tell the difference between a 351W and a 302 then I would go to a different shop. it is not that hard to tell the difference if you have any kind of experience with ford engines. and if you cant tell visually then to crack one open and start building it is definitely a no no
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2007
- Messages
- 81,756
Yeah no doubt at all
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2007
- Messages
- 81,756
same problem
I Have the same problem once again (sorry to keep bothering y'all). I was able to drive about 60 miles and was able to fill the 11g tank one more time before it stalled on me while not overheating around 170 degrees when it died it was early in the morning and made it about 1 mile. The only thing I can think of at this point is they used the original tank and it has water or rust that keeps causing these problems. I noticed two things that I thought were new a dent in the headers (maybe this was already there) I know you can have dents in the headers and something in my oil....I am going to have the tank drained and inspected.. any other ideas..
I Have the same problem once again (sorry to keep bothering y'all). I was able to drive about 60 miles and was able to fill the 11g tank one more time before it stalled on me while not overheating around 170 degrees when it died it was early in the morning and made it about 1 mile. The only thing I can think of at this point is they used the original tank and it has water or rust that keeps causing these problems. I noticed two things that I thought were new a dent in the headers (maybe this was already there) I know you can have dents in the headers and something in my oil....I am going to have the tank drained and inspected.. any other ideas..
