AOD Experts?

[ba123]

I’m having a struggle here, could use some advice on my TV port crap.

Please was to put a pressure gauge so I never have to worry about getting back in there to make changes. The first setup I got was a 90° swivel fitting from fittingspace.com (DO NOT USE THEM—they do not stand behind the crap they sell).

The threads are not NPT, they are small but I thought I could make it work. The trans end was ok with a ton of teflon tape, but the gauge end leaked and I tightened it more and the entire fitting broke in half. Crap. [I meant to say that THEY said they were NPT, but they used a different spec, I don’t remember what they called it. Same threads, but smaller diameter].

Tried an extension tube and can’t get that to seal on the trans at all! Seems like my threads might be messed up now form all these attempts in a tough to reach spot.

Decided to forego the gauge, at least for now, and just put a manual oil pressure gauge on there so I can set my tv pressure and even that is leaking. Scared to keep tightening but I’ll try again after it cool and I can reach in there.

How much damage might I do if I have to put a tap in that hole?

Any suggestions? Frustrating having issues when I’m soooo close!

Thanks!

 

[ba123]

Nvm. Guess it just needed more tightening.

Still might say screw the gauge.

 

[bronco italiano]

Ben use a cleaner tap dipped in ATF to hold any aluminum debris. Sorry to hear you got a bum fitting. Is it 1/4 NPT? Did I ever send a pic to you of my setup?

 

[ba123]

Ben use a cleaner tap dipped in ATF to hold any aluminum debris. Sorry to hear you got a bum fitting. Is it 1/4 NPT? Did I ever send a pic to you of my setup?

1/8-npt for that fitting. The cooling lines are 1/4 (nps though)

Yeah, I prob will do that since I had to put this oil gauge thread all the way in to get it to stop leaking and want easy.

You did show me your setup, which is great, but I need digital…I have one other fitting I got that’s a tight fit but I might be able to get it in there. May have to grind the corners down a bit though.

It’ll be my last try. Going to set the TV pressure first though, but think I need to add a return spring on the tv arm. This Lokar cable doesn’t push it back enough and is pushing 60 lbs at 1000 rpm unless I push the lever back, then 0.

 

[bronco italiano]

I’m having a struggle here, could use some advice on my TV port crap.

Please was to put a pressure gauge so I never have to worry about getting back in there to make changes. The first setup I got was a 90° swivel fitting from fittingspace.com (DO NOT USE THEM—they do not stand behind the crap they sell).

The threads are not NPT, they are small but I thought I could make it work. The trans end was ok with a ton of teflon tape, but the gauge end leaked and I tightened it more and the entire fitting broke in half. Crap. [I meant to say that THEY said they were NPT, but they used a different spec, I don’t remember what they called it. Same threads, but smaller diameter].

Tried an extension tube and can’t get that to seal on the trans at all! Seems like my threads might be messed up now form all these attempts in a tough to reach spot.

Decided to forego the gauge, at least for now, and just put a manual oil pressure gauge on there so I can set my tv pressure and even that is leaking. Scared to keep tightening but I’ll try again after it cool and I can reach in there.

How much damage might I do if I have to put a tap in that hole?

Any suggestions? Frustrating having issues when I’m soooo close!

Thanks!

1/8-npt for that fitting. The cooling lines are 1/4 (nps though)

Yeah, I prob will do that since I had to put this oil gauge thread all the way in to get it to stop leaking and want easy.

You did show me your setup, which is great, but I need digital…I have one other fitting I got that’s a tight fit but I might be able to get it in there. May have to grind the corners down a bit though.

It’ll be my last try. Going to set the TV pressure first though, but think I need to add a return spring on the tv arm. This Lokar cable doesn’t push it back enough and is pushing 60 lbs at 1000 rpm unless I push the lever back, then 0.

Ben, when you install your permanent fitting use tape and dope on the fitting. Let it set up for 24 hours before running fluid through it. Best of luck. Don

 

[Quick & Dirty]

I used to have one in a Lincoln Mark VII. I never checked pressures, just tightened the cable until it shifted how I liked and didn't bottom out at full throttle. Set it to up-shift later than stock with downshift at about 1/2 throttle. Tight cable, high pressure, late shifting doesn't hurt it. Slack cable, low pressure, soft, early shifts burn the clutches.

The no-fuss setting for the Mustang crowd is full throttle has 1/16" to 1/8" cable travel left. This will give late, snappy shifting and quick downshift. Not sure if this setting will shift into OD at Bronco aerodynamics power levels.

 

[ba123]

So, I had a couple things on my list to do including needing to swap out the aod temp sensor since it’s not compatible with my Dakota hdx (was running through ms3 initially) and want to move the exhaust a little and shorten a spot for better fit, and fix this tv port.

Best to do all at once, so removed the exhaust which gave me space, cleaned out the threads with a tap and fluid, then ran some fittings to make sure all good.

The other fitting I got for the pressure port was ALMOST perfect.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0B34ZHN44?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

It was just too big around to go in right, so I had to grind it down in a few spots. I love how it multiple outlets cause you just don’t know which way is gonna end up being useable.

Did my best to make sure my grinds wouldn’t interfere with the hex by grinding away and reinserting the Allen wrench along the way.

Went all the way in nice and tight, used thread locking Teflon compound. Pretty sure this is gonna be great.

It’ll sit and cure a few days while I wait for my new temp sender to come and finish up.

 

[bronco italiano]

Very nice Ben!!!!
Since you are building such a beautiful/no corners cut bronco.
One thing I did was have my entire exhaust inside/out thermal barrier coated at Caps coatings in Fresno.
It was one of the best OCD upgrades I did besides the SEFI/h-boost.
If you can have v-band clamp before/after the muffler they can get the inside of those pipes.
That draws heat away from the motor so well and helps decrease heat on the undercarriage side too.
If you have the spare coin, I feel it is well worth it.

 

[ba123]

My headers are ceramic coated already...was thinking of doing Jet Hot black for the exhaust. I think that would be SICK but can't decide for sure what to do. I was really worried about all these AOD connections I have right above the exhaust, esp when it leaks and starts to smoke but this time I took a laser temp of my exhaust right next to the AOD and it was only in the 250° range (flash point of my fluid is 420°), so not sure how much it'll really benefit other than looks.

No hurry to decide I guess since I can remove it and ship to them anytime.

 

[bronco italiano]

I did the black on my exhaust and it is more than just looks good/Sick. The black also has a higher temp rating too.
I could drive my bronco, come back home and in 10 minutes of turning off the engine could put my hand on the exhaust and not get burned.
-I would check out Caps coatings.
-I had jet hot do my 912 motor header and it started rusting in 5 years, not bad, but it never should have even started to fail. The motor was always garaged and had 5,000 miles on it.

 

[bronco italiano]

Here are a couple pics. I need to wash down my undercarriage but it is a flat black.
WOW my underside is FILTHY after seeing the larger pics.