Another 3G Alternator question - 1 wire regulator

[Heus33]

I recently purchased a new 3G alternator from this site: http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=17

The guy I spoke with talked me into the 1-wire Regulator upgrade.

So my new Alternator appears to be set up like this:

"A" Terminal wire going to the B+ terminal
"S" Terminal wire going to the Stator Connector
But no "I" terminal wire to go to the starter switch.

Looking at these installation guides it looks like I need that "I" terminal wire (green/red wire) for my Hot in Run wire. Did I get the wrong setup?


My second question is where to run the 4 gauge power wire. The RJM doc shows it wired directly to the battery but the BC Broncos diagram shows it wired to the starter solenoid. Is there a preferred method here?

 

[70_Steve]

I recently purchased a new 3G alternator from this site: http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/catalog.php?item=17

The guy I spoke with talked me into the 1-wire Regulator upgrade.

I think you should call "the guy".

My second question is where to run the 4 gauge power wire. The RJM doc shows it wired directly to the battery but the BC Broncos diagram shows it wired to the starter solenoid. Is there a preferred method here?

Those two locations should be functionally equivalent, with only the + battery cable between them. I chose the solenoid only because it was a more convenient location to attach the alternator cable.

 

[Heus33]

Hold the presses - a fellow member just sent me a link to this diagram on BC's site. It shows a 1 wire 3G connection. This looks like what I have, but what happens to the Hot/Run wire?

http://www.bcbroncos.com/3g1wire with water mark.pdf

 

[Viperwolf1]

You don't need the "I" wire on a 1 wire alt. Insulate it and bundle it up in your harness. You'll need it someday.

 

[Ryan]

The guy I spoke with talked me into the 1-wire Regulator upgrade.

Sounds like a Down-grade

 

[Heus33]

Sounds like a Down-grade

Really, why? This is all new to me so I'd appreciate the education.

The 1-wire regulator "upgrade" was an additional $20.00.

 

[7bronco6]

I was reading this website last night about 1 wire alternators.. # 9 I don't know if it applies..

 

[Ryan]

Its tractor technology, where they have no dash. it has to be reved up to 1500RPM to turn on, and they like low constant amp draw. Just like most tractors.

 

[Pa PITT]

OK Ryan That is what my 1 wire Delco did to me if it was charging I had good lights but if it was not charging it had yellow lights just like I still had my old org ford alt on it ......Since I had about a 105 or 120 amp alt My Bronco NEVER KICKED IN TO charge ..since most of my driving is just through the pasture cruseing .
.......So can the delco be changed ..Or do I need to get a 3G..

 

[DirtDonk]

...Looking at these installation guides it looks like I need that "I" terminal wire (green/red wire) for my Hot in Run wire. Did I get the wrong setup?

Hey Heuss. Looks like they've already pretty much covered it, but I wanted to add my 2 cents because it sounds like there's a basic mis-understanding here.
Because you now have a "1-wire" unit, "normal" instructions no longer apply. That's why he calls his a 1-wire, and Ford does not. Because it's not. So if Ryan's and Chuck's instructions are for a normal 3G internally regulated (but not a 1-wire) alternator, you need to get instructions from the people you bought the unit from, or "assume" that it's really a 1-wire, and just hook up the one wire (see next paragraph).
By 1-wire, they mean just that. Theoretically at least, you only have to hook up one wire. And that wire is the main output to the battery. The alternator should be "self-energizing" (as was also already mentioned) so it's not the keyed wire (green w/red) that turns the unit on anymore, it's done by the alternator reaching a certain pre-set rpm level where it senses that it's time to start charging.
A standard Ford alternator is sent that signal by the key through the Green w/red wire, so can start charging the second it starts turning.

My second question is where to run the 4 gauge power wire. The RJM doc shows it wired directly to the battery but the BC Broncos diagram shows it wired to the starter solenoid. Is there a preferred method here?

Again, as was mentioned, they're functionally the same from a charging point. However there is a basic school of thought that hooking a charging system directly to the battery terminal will allow the battery's cells to absorb any excess current (spikes) before it gets to the electrical system. This is probably true, as a spike might happen to go the path of least resistance, and with the battery that close, should effectively reduce it (I'm guessing). But the trade-off in convenience was obviously not worth it to the O.E.'s, evidently, and has not been a major concern over the years, as most manufacturers hook the alt's output to the battery cable, at the starter relay/solenoid or other similar junction stud.
It's just more convenient, clean looking and works just fine.

Sounds like the guy's partial to 1-wires (probably an old GM guy), wanted to make a few extra bucks at the same time, but didn't bother to ask his customer if he knew just what method to use when hooking it up.
Common issue as long as there have been cars it seems.

Paul

 

[Heus33]

Thanks Paul - Thats a great explaination. ;D

Tom