Pulling Motor - Torque Converter Handling

[stanz]

Hey guys. I’ve done a lot of wrenching in my day but have never pulled a motor until now. All prep is going well and tomorrow is likely the day I’m going to pull it...

I need some advice on how to handle the torque converter when pulling as well as re-install. In other words, being care not to damage the studs on removal and figuring out how to plan for lining up the flex plate when reinstalling.

Pertinent details:
Motor: stock 302
Trans: stock C4
The four torque converter nuts have already been removed. All relevant connections have already been undone. Still need to remove the 6 bell housing to block bolts.

 

[TheBeardedOne]

Please help

 

[Broncobowsher]

Four nuts removed. You should be able to go in the starter pocket and give the convertor a little nudge toward the transmission. You know it is free of the engine.

That's it. Really. By the time the engine slides far enough forward to clear the dowel pins aligning the block to the transmission the studs are clear of the flexplate.

 

[Rusty_S85]

Yep and if you do remove the converter when you install it make sure you are fully seated. you will have to pull back spin and slide forward a few times to get it fully seated in some cases.

 

[Steve83]

Just push the TC back into the trans, and make sure it stays there. If there are several holes in the flexplate, mark at least one so you'll know where to put one of the studs during reassembly. As soon as the block is away, put a straightedge across the bellhousing, and note the position of the nose of the TC relative to it. They're not all the same, so find out what it is for a C4, and post what you see.

(phone app link)


(phone app link)

 

[tirewater]

Just a note, make sure the torque converter is fully released from the engine before pulling the engine. It is easy for the converter to get hung up on the flexplate while pulling the engine. You can damage the input shaft bearing/bushing this way and get a leaky transmission.

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, as mentioned, mark a stud on the torque converter and the hole on the flex plate do it goes back together the same way, and put a floor jack under the tranny.
Good luck

 

[75MIKE]

I've had good luck picking the motor enough to remove the motor mounts and then lower the motor some. Gains some room on the firewall and makes getting the top bolts on the bellhousing a breeze.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Save the easiest bellhousing bolt for last. That way everything stays together until you are ready for it to come apart.

 

[stanz]

I’ve tried every pry bar I have for the torque converter...seems there’s no space between the converter and flex plate to get it going. What am I doing wrong?

 

[stanz]

Shall I lightly jostle it loose with my hoist?

 

[Broncobowsher]

Don't pry on it.
You have all 4 nuts removed. One every 90°. All the same nut. This isn't a chevy (that only has 3)
The stud should have a little play in the flexplate hole, be able to rattle it around.
It is not normal for them to stick in place.

 

[stanz]

I hoisted the motor half an inch and the lowered it. That was enough to break the flex plate free. Motor is out!!

 

[Steve83]

Did you check the TC depth with a straightedge? What was the depth?

 

[stanz]

Did you check the TC depth with a straightedge? What was the depth?

Not yet. It’s been a long day. Will do in the next few days. I don’t understand the significance of the measurement.

 

[Broncobowsher]

What you want to be sure is the convetor is fully seated in the transmission. The last little bit is a couple of dog ears on the convetor that engage the front pump. If the convertor is pulled out and rotated a little these little ears will not engage. As you tighten the engine back into place it will crunch the transmission pump.

The actual measurement isn't really critical. What is critical is when you have the engine bolted to the transmission the convertor is not bound up. It should have a little wiggle room. Tight once the nuts are on, but a little free play before the nuts go on. Be able to push it back a tiny bit (3/16"?), studs loose in the holes. That is all good, it isn't bound up.

You can get all fancy and measure the convertor setback from the mounting face (actually hard to get an accurate number since the convertor is a little loose and has some wiggle to it). And measure from the block to the flexplate. Subtract the two and you should have a little clearance.