Painless Wiring Nightmare, completely stumped!

[mr110]

I decided to swap in a full painless harness and all new switches to my bronco and i am getting zero power anywhere when i get to the final test step.

I have a 3g alternator upgrade, with connections from a late model for as stated in the install guide, connecting the yellow of the connector to the black yellow of the harness, and green of the connector to the green red of the harness.
grounds from the battery to the block, block to frame, alternator to block and even dash to block for testing.

I jumped the reverse and neutral safety switches as i currently dont have them in my truck, but do plan to install later.

My issue is i keep reading through the install guide and every thing under the dash seem connected to the right terminals...but when i connect to the jumper box as explained in the install guide, turn the key to acc nothing happens at all. no head lights, no gauge lights, no brakes nothing. i am completely stumped.

does anyone have any tips, or fixed they found or anything to help. I am trying to sort through as much as i can before i call painless (as they are open at literally the least opportune time for customer help calls)

 

[SHX669]

Sorry but I always start with the easiest and then work up - or down depending on your philosophy - LOL .
Did you install all the fuses including the Mega fuse ?
What did you do with the wire that goes through the Ammeter loop ?

 

[gnpenning]

Have you ran any voltage tests? ? Do you have power to the fuse box? Do you have power going through the fuses? Do you have power to the ignition switch? Starter solenoid, alt,etc? ?

Knowing where you have and don't have power will be a big help. Sounds like you don't have any power to the fuse panel. Others could tell you which wire to check. Until then you can get the voltmeter out and start testing.

 

[Bo Boulware]

Sounds crazy and to simple but I just did the same and failed to hook main white wire to negative terminal.

 

[mr110]

Sorry but I always start with the easiest and then work up - or down depending on your philosophy - LOL .
Did you install all the fuses including the Mega fuse ?
What did you do with the wire that goes through the Ammeter loop ?

Fuses and mega fuse are in. The ammeter wire is the black and yellow that runs through the loop and the black and yellow connects to the alternator at A on the ASI diagram for a 3g alternator...but I need to triple check they are right.

 

[mr110]

Sounds crazy and to simple but I just did the same and failed to hook main white wire to negative terminal.

What white wire? Maybe it is that crazy simple!

 

[mr110]

Have you ran any voltage tests? ? Do you have power to the fuse box? Do you have power going through the fuses? Do you have power to the ignition switch? Starter solenoid, alt,etc? ?

Knowing where you have and don't have power will be a big help. Sounds like you don't have any power to the fuse panel. Others could tell you which wire to check. Until then you can get the voltmeter out and start testing.

This I need to check. I have been checking continuity. But not for power, rain just stopped my work for least the next little while here in Oregon.

But I agree. I don't seem to have power coming from the fuse panel. And based on the painless diagram I don't see how it gets there.

 

[73azbronco]

And by check I hope your using a fused test line off the battery hot so you dont melt anything.

Look at page 24-26, and 61 and 81

 

[mr110]

And by check I hope your using a fused test line off the battery hot so you dont melt anything.

Look at page 24-26, and 61 and 81

It is all installed with the maxifuse in line. And being testing with a battery charger which is internally regulated.

 

[DirtDonk]

If you're using a battery charger, did you put it in "manual" mode rather than "automatic" if it has that option?
I've tried using them before where it would click off (internal circuit breaker) before anything would work. Had to put it on manual.
With others, I just use the battery. Yes, it's big and scary, but it's power and reliable and that's what fuses are for.

You can still use a lower rated fuse, either a 40 amp or smaller Maxi (I forget how low they go?) or just your own wire with inline 10 amp fuse.

Paul

 

[73azbronco]

I'm going with two dry cell 6 volts wired to get 12 volyts to test my circuits out when the time comes.

Hows it going??

 

[tabascom16]

I had the problem about no power anywhere and found out my cable to the negative battery terminal to the engine block was not good. After I cleaned up the connection everything worked fine. It was shocking because I thought the metal was clean enough.

 

[mr110]

Hi all. Thanks for all the tips. It's pouring rain where I live and the truck is outside right now. So electrical work has been paused. Hopefully, I'll get back to it this weekend.