Options for better braking power

[John_parkeriv]

Howdy y'all.
Made a thread a while back on brakes locking up and wanting more power. After some research and just plain trial and error, I've got the brakes to not lock but still need some braking help.

I'm running a Hydroboost setup and MC out of I believe a C3500 truck (been a while and it was a backwoods-y setup at best ). I have stock drums all the way around which I believe are 10 inch, and now have a prop valve in-line. I've got it setup so that the rear brakes barely lock up at full pedal press, and it still isn't enough stopping power for what I'm looking for. I did confirm the front brakes are working by lifting the truck, spinning the wheels, and hitting the brakes.

What are some of the best ways to increase stopping power, or at least stop faster? I'd reckon disks or simply LARGER brakes, but what're y'all thinking?

TIA,
Parker

 

[bronco italiano]

Stop tech

 

[67sport]

My experience with 2 different front drum Broncos is that a front disc conversion is worth every penny.

 

[Timmy390]

I ran power drums for about 10 years. They seemed to always be put of adjustment and "OH SHIP" braking was an adventure.

I went disc and it stops real good....and straight

Tim

 

[Johnnyb]

IMHO, adding power to drum brakes, even if you get past the adjuster issues, is asking for fade while driving on the highway. EB drums were never great and the power booster might fool one into believing that they are working well, until they fade out going down a Long mountain grade.

I considered hydro boost, but opted instead for WH vacuum booster setup on four wheel disc brakes. Very pleased so far with all aspects. Paddle pressure is reasonable on the road and trail, and best of all they stop straight!

JB

 

[John_parkeriv]

Stop tech

Got a link to the kit?

 

[Broncobowsher]

C3500 master? It might be too large of a bore. I want to remember that some years were as large as an inch and a half.

 

[John_parkeriv]

C3500 master? It might be too large of a bore. I want to remember that some years were as large as an inch and a half.

What's a good way to check or find parts to swap?

 

[bronco italiano]

Got a link to the kit?

https://www.facebook.com/StopTech/

Call them, they don't make a disc conversion kit. They should.
I have their kit on my sons 240Z with Rebello 3l engine. Brakes will take the paint off the car they stop so well.
Very high quality, and not cheap.

 

[DirtDonk]

Front brakes are 11" John. Rear's can be either 10" or 11" inch depending on how the Bronco was optioned.
If you are locking up brakes, you do not need more power. If you're not locking up the fronts, but only the rears, then fine tuning like you've been doing is a good first step.
But if you've been tuning to stop the rears from locking, then you've essentially been "reducing" the power to the brakes. At least to the rears. This is not in itself giving you more power, but less. Not that you need more to the rear of course, since you're already capable of locking the tires up.
But if you can't lock the fronts, it's possible that it has nothing to do with the power you are applying, but with the brakes themselves. Remember you're trying to stop 35" tires where the factory only had to stop 28" tires. And all the extra weight and traction that those numbers imply.

What size wheels? Stock 15" or larger? The most effective way to get more power to the front tires is to increase the size/force of the front brakes. Maybe Wilwood has a kit for you?
This kit requires 17" wheels: https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/18120/Bronco_Disc_Brake_Kits
This kit requires 18" wheels: https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/18125/Bronco_Disc_Brake_Kits

At the very least however, you will need some extra heavy duty front shoes. Probably at least semi-metallic for high-performance, or full-metallic for even more stopping power.
The problem with those is that they require some more heat in the shoes before they can stop to their capabilities. Full metal shoes often require many brake events before heating up, which is why most only use them for racing and never on the street.
If you're going to stay with 15" or maybe even 16" wheels, I'm afraid you're going to have to at a minimum go to a disc brake up front. Whether the standard stuff, with extra high-performance pads, or high performance aftermarket such as Wilwood or StopTech, it's pretty much a must-do at this point I feel.
Easy for me to say of course, 'cause it's just YOUR money!
But I don't see any other way. You've already got plenty of "power" at your foot's beck and call. Now you need more front brake.

You probably should just have kept going with your old thread, rather than starting a new one. That way we would be able to review what has already been said. Rather than risk starting all over again and re-hashing old news.
Maybe not, but it does help sometimes.

Paul

 

[John_parkeriv]

So I know you can swap chevy parts onto the Dana axles to get disks, but those are getting VERY scarce around my neck of the woods.

Could you swap the disc's from a full size or later bronco onto the early ones or are the mounts / dimensions different?

 

[Timmy390]

Dana 30 only accepts the Chevy conversion. The Dana 44 will take either Chevy or the Big Bronco conversion.

Tim

 

[John_parkeriv]

Dana 30 only accepts the Chevy conversion.

Are there any good places to get chevy swap parts? Local boneyard dried up on square body's decades ago and FB marketplace hasn't got anything within 200 miles of me

 

[Timmy390]

I think all the venders sell a Chevy kit. I also think there are some kits on eBay? Horsepower sales also has a kit.

Tim

 

[Yeller]

all of the parts except the caliper bracket are available at any parts store. The caliper brackets are readily available on Ebay from many suppliers, most of them are new, not junk yard parts. As Tim posted, all of the vendors sell a kit, as do many brake specific suppliers.

 

[John_parkeriv]

all of the parts except the caliper bracket are available at any parts store. The caliper brackets are readily available on Ebay from many suppliers, most of them are new, not junk yard parts. As Tim posted, all of the vendors sell a kit, as do many brake specific suppliers.

I don't think I've ever seen the knuckle or backing plate at a local store. I know brakes aren't something to cheap out on, but I would like the drive this thing during my lifetime so I'm trying to do it affordably.

Big kit or ebay may be the way to go if I can't find anything

 

[lars]

You don’t need knuckles if you do the GM swap.

 

[Yeller]

Here’s a Complete kit , or you can purchase the caliper brackets and piece everything else out. The price is quite fair for all of the components.

 

[nvrstuk]

If you have HB and a 1 ton mc then if it's all set up properly you have plenty of PRESSURE. The C3500 HB doesn't matter if it's 1.5" dia, you have PLENTY of pressure. I have run large dia HB bores and they work great. Obviously "bigger" isn't always necessarily better but no issue with 1.5" bore.

Your sig line says "astro van". Is that the mc you are still running?

I think Paul's on the right track when talking shoes, that was my first thought.

I think the ones you have now are bad. "Bad" could mean many things but what they aren't doing is gripping the drum and stopping you with plenty of pressure (once again, if the setup you have is working properly).

- glazed. Once shoes are glazed they are worthless. There is a correct procedure for "breaking-in" shoes and pads. I went to several brake schools and most tech's know not to get greasy fingerprints all over the linings but very few know anything about proper break in.

- cheap. Dang, AutoZone, Orielly's, Napa cheapers are all worthless. Get some high quality shoes and don't touch the surface when installing and break in properly.

OR

- the BEST option for stopping a 4500# + shoebox is discs up front. If you wheel off road with large tires I do not recommend the Chevy conversion at all unless you like hammering the crap out of stuff on your back under a jacked up EB usually in a not so nice spot precariously perched on rocks or logs and your front tire, spindle and axle off your rig. I just tell my friends how to fix this and I do not pound anymore, I shout encouragements or tell stories ...

The Chebby knuckle is much smaller than the Ford knuckle and if you've ever had to help friends beat the living daylights out of bent ears on axle shafts to fit them thru the smaller Chebby knuckle then you'll understand why I'm trying to save you this nasty job. lol

 

[Cmaxx252]

Here’s a Complete kit , or you can purchase the caliper brackets and piece everything else out. The price is quite fair for all of the components.

Do you run this kit on your rig? Im looking into kits for mine. Toms seems pretty fool proof. Shipping is steep though.