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Opportunity on a 1972 (Reality Check?)

LongleafBronco

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Mar 2, 2020
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3
Thanks in advance! Photos link at the bottom.

A guy I know has a 1972 Bronco (2nd owner), fairly original that’s been sitting for at least 10 years, probably more. I think he’s owned it for 30+ years. He said he quit driving it because it became too drafty with all the rust holes. It’s been cross-country and back, and he’s seen the odometer roll over twice so 200k+ and the ticker is sitting at 60k right now. I believe the only engine work he said he’d done was carb work over the years and hardened valve seats for unleaded.

There’s obviously a plethora of rust and small patch job attempts; the roof has had fiberglass patches. The door bottoms are completely rusted through. Rusted floorpan where the front of the tub meets the firewall and in the back bed. A lot was covered by the vinyl flooring but from underneath you can see all the rust. Pretty much where any two body parts meet there’s some rust. The passenger side inner fender was cut by the first owner. The tailgate is off a donor and missing the trim. It has all the seats (driver has seen better days, rear is in pretty good shape). He’s got the door panels stored in his basement (didn’t lay eyes on them). The headliner is pretty much trash but does have all 4 original hubcaps and the driver mirror. Glass looks original less the windshield and the passenger side quarter vent. He said both gas tanks worked, but unfortunately still have fuel in them. It’s got the original spare tire carrier, and he has a second in somewhat better condition. Some extra parts like driveshaft, 3 spares, radiator, random suspension components.

My dad and I restored a 66 mustang when I was a little guy and I’ve had a bug to do something of my own. I had a wrangler in my teenage years and loved to tinker with that, but I really love the stock look of classic broncos. My idea would be to keep it original as possible; column shift, 302, uncut, stock-ish suspension, probably a brake upgrade. I forgot to snap a pick of the plate in the glovebox but it’s there.

I’m wondering what you guys think of this one from the photos. I’m not a welder so I’m asking if the body is salvageable (for a competent shop) or if a pre-assembled tub is the way to go. Just browsing online what’s local-ish to me there’s a place in Wilmington, Delaware (North East Classic Ford Parts) that has assembled skeletons or full bodies that’ll bolt them to the rolling chassis if anyone’s had experience with them. I’d prefer to make use of the existing fenders, grille, and hood if I went that route (all with their own minor rust problems). I’m not so sure if the top is salvageable with all the rust and fiberglass patches. It doesn’t look wrecked but i think it bumped something at one point; front bumper is bent and the front driver grille/fender is slightly misaligned.

The frame appears solid to me, but there’s a fair amount of scaly rust. The body mounts I did see appeared pretty solid with the original bushings. Just tons of neglect, crud, and leaky orifices underneath was sort of overwhelming to get great photos. Are the frame/drivetrain components usable still with what rust and decay you can see in the pictures?

Do you think this one’s too ambitious of a project for someone who doesn’t do their own body work? My idea is to take the restoration fairly slow, with sort of one component per year. I.E. disassembly year one, frame year two, body year three, etc, etc. This would be so my young son could participate in some of the process. I definitely don’t have the checkbook to go all in at once but plan to spend around 5k in any given year, perhaps up to 10k for large component years. I'm pretty green when it involves full restoration work. I've got a good grasp on suspension and engine work. Obviously I'd like to keep the cost down but pretty much relegated that bodywork is out of my realm.

Now for the nitty gritty; I’m well aware folks seem to want too much for rusted out shells these days, but what would be a fair price for one in this shape? He said he’d be open to an offer by me but he’s not in any hurry to get rid of it. This is actually the second time he’s let me look at it in the past 2 years, but now the wife is on board with at least the idea of parking it in the garage so I figured I’d ask the helpful folks here. Sorry if the pics aren't the greatest detail inside, but I didn't want to rip the thing apart prodding for rust holes. I know it's rusty.

Thanks for taking the time to read and check it out; please let me know what you guys think.

Photo link: https://photos.google.com/u/1/share/AF1QipNG8pPpgAfIUbrAajoEE5TZniee_QKHith1c_wZFxe_03AyosX3KM778TEsjhUEWQ?key=Z2JxYjhnVlM5V0FmYWlCelFCR0x6d3RNb2p5UDhR
 

trailerjack

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It will take a lot of work, and from experience I have found that "projects" turn into long term projects, and long term projects often end up with laundry stacked up on them in the garage. If I was you (I am someone with young kids too), I would recommend finding something a little further along....something that maybe in a year you could throw the kids in and at least get an ice cream cone. The goal is to be able to drive it while you enjoy it.

Also if the price is great that doesn't always mean great things. "The cheap becomes expensive" is a quote we throw around my house often.
 

Gupster88

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Offer him 1500 to 2000 for it. Start there. Would not pay anymore than 2500 for it based on what the pictures are showing. As for rebuild.Up o you really. As you are close to NE Classics. I would go with the new tub on this one and go from there. Just my 2 cents. Good luck.
 

Crush

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That is a 72 explorer sport one year only option for both packages. Has a unique interior also
 

904Bronco

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There is a lot of work there, almost everything is going to need to be rebuilt. And the rust is everywhere, just getting it running again will need/take $$. You will be doing a PS and PB upgrade. A fresh body would be the way the way to go... How diverse is your tool selection?
Cheap is not always cheap in the end... Good luck with your decision
 

hunter1

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Damage

Plan on replacing at least the rear shock mounts and patching holes in the frame underneath the mounts and rear bump stop brackets. Also every body mount will most likely need to be rebuilt with the holes being rusted out oversized.
 

half cab

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That is a 72 explorer sport one year only option for both packages. Has a unique interior also


I believe you are correct. Looks like Darango Tan under that green.
 

Pops68

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At least you added a bunch of pics!!! Many guys will post one or two and ask for similar advice.....you made it much easier.

Lots of good advice given here, so no need for me to add anything other than I can't do body work either and that would add up quickly.
 

Skinnyr1

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May 25, 2019
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That bronco is a multi year, many thousands of dollar restoration. You say you are willing to stretch it out over many years, but be honest with yourself here if you really are. There is rust hiding everywhere. Cowl, doors, door pillars, rear quarters, rockers, floors..... It all needs to be replaced I'm sure. The drivetrain is all probably shot too since you know up front it has close to 300k on it.

Sure, some people would be willing to do the body work. But are you? If you were to tackle it yourself, it might be reasonable money wise, but it will take hundreds (thousands maybe?) of man hours to do it yourself.

I don't know about your kids, but my kids would want nothing to do with a project that takes years and years and years.

If you are paying someone else, I'd imagine it would be better just to buy a new tub. Spend the $10 - $15k and have something good to build off of. But do your research here. All the small stuff adds up and it gets expensive.

I've walked away from Bronco's like this in the $1500- $2500 price range. It is enticing, yes, but I believe you are really better off paying more up front for something nicer to start with.

It has some value if you can get it for cheap enough. But only you can decide if it is right for your situation.
 

chuckyb

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Looks a lot like mine did - rusted inside and out with the cowls, floors etc being trashed and 190,000 miles of wear and tear. With the V8 and ranger / sport package on this one and assuming it’s got a good title, it’s got some desirability, but it will be a ton of work as the others have said.
 

No Hay

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Wow, I'm always shocked at what condition folks will start off with for a project. Good thing it had tarps over it to protect it %)

Buy the best one you can afford. For the "Reality Check" you are looking for, locate the thread on here where folks have listed how much they have spent getting theirs up to driver status, or better. Sobering numbers.
 

The Far Side

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I started with what I thought was a relatively (for the age and what I could see) rust free 73 base bronco. Once you get into it and start chasing rust, it can become overwhelming. I am handy, can weld but fairly new to body panel replacement. Whatever you see, plan on more, probably much more. I thought I was getting a deal at $3k but now.........I probably am about right. Mine was borderline on a new body so I saved it. In your case, I would do what several have mentioned, find something further along and point this one at someone that has the time and money to reclaim a fairly rare package.
 
OP
OP
L

LongleafBronco

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Thanks for all the sound advice! I’ll try to give a rundown of responses.

My kids still too young (3) to help with any substantial work, but more of a gopher and to learn his way around tools before I have to really compete with screens and technology.

I’m alright with a project stretching out for years and I should have the garage and storage space for something long term. I was planning (and informed the wife) on 30-40k for a decent runner just to tool around town. Power steering isn’t that important to me, but power brakes would be a must.

Neat to hear its unique for its year. I knew it was rusty to start with and sort of settled on needing a whole new body before I posted; great insight on the frame mounts. Not that I’m interested in flipping but would entirely new sheet metal detract from any value the explorer sport edition has?

I was hoping it’d have some value as being (mostly) complete with trim, knobs, glass, seats, brackets, etc. that would translate over for a new body.

Seems the consensus on this one is too much rust, not much to save. A couple years ago he said 5k before we pulled the tarp off, and I could tell how disappointed he was in its condition from sitting for years in his driveway. Second time around he said to throw a reasonable offer at him.

I definitely don’t need to have something in the garage tomorrow, and it sounds like the opinion here is anything more than 1500 would be throwing money down the drain. Seems like really just buying a VIN at this point and it’d be a better parts vehicle for all the little ends and outs than anything else. But since I know the guy well, I’d hate to get it from him and have to junk it more or less if it was unsavable. He wasn’t even really interested in selling it until I told him I preferred to restore one to stock condition. This one was just convenient because I know the guy, and it’s close to my house without really having to look for one. I’ll throw him the dreaded low-ball at the end of this week and offer up some of the problems seen and experiences you all have to offer between now and then.

Thanks for your help and being a great community!
 

half cab

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Here's an old ad .
 

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Gupster88

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In fact. If there is not one already. Lets start a thread showing old ads and promotions for broncos from 65 to 77. I would love that....
 

half cab

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In fact. If there is not one already. Lets start a thread showing old ads and promotions for broncos from 65 to 77. I would love that....

This one for the aftermarket kellycab. Almost looks like a scout.
 

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Eoth

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The cost for a shop to repair will exceed its value. You need a person with body work skills, passion and tons of time. This calls for a new body but I don't think the frame is solid either. After that, what are you left with? A worn out drive-train. Sorry... From a distance I would get excited, but seeing the reality, I would walk away (at a brisk pace)....
 

ngsd

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Pretty much on point. I am doing one like that but I knew that it would have to be written off to experience. Boy have I learned! The reality is that you will far exceed the value of buying one without rust even if you gave 10k more. And the longer term issue is will you ever finish such a project? If you are up for learning everything like I am and can write it off to education, go for it. If not find one without rust to start.
 
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