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Looking for pics of body trimming for larger tires

Chief Master Sergeant

Retired U.S. Air Force
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Nov 6, 2002
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5,177
Just installed 37s on my 72 and it looks like some trimming will be necessary. Just curious how much others have needed to trim. I know the rock sliders and some sharp areas where the tub ties in need to be trimmed.
0b387d76922f329f315642c54c74ef39.jpg



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rjrobin2002

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That looks real good, I have been thinking of building a larger tire with minimal lift lately.

Like 2.5" lift and 35s
 

nvrstuk

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Just a Bronco driver for over 50 yrs!
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Just depends how much you want it. Mostly time and a lot of math. lol

I run 40"s with just under 2 1/2" of susp lift, not incl body lift. I have 6 full inches of uptravel. Here I am at full bump wandering around NWBR on the Oregon Coast a couple yrs back.

First pic was before I added in some sheet metal to the qtr.
 

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OP
OP
Chief Master Sergeant

Chief Master Sergeant

Retired U.S. Air Force
Joined
Nov 6, 2002
Messages
5,177
Just depends how much you want it. Mostly time and a lot of math. lol

I run 40"s with just under 2 1/2" of susp lift, not incl body lift. I have 6 full inches of uptravel. Here I am at full bump wandering around NWBR on the Oregon Coast a couple yrs back.

First pic was before I added in some sheet metal to the qtr.

Any rattle from the front fenders with the supports cut out? I like the look of the front cut like that. I think I might be okay up front, but the rear worries me. Need to flex it out at work with the forklift to see where I’ll hit


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nvrstuk

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I can see it vibrate but you can't hear it.

The difference between lifting with a forklift/backhoe and actually racking it up in the rocks can be as much as an inch. Has to do with the frame flexing when the diagonals are both getting jammed into the wheel well- like PS rear & DS frt.

Here my DS frt tire is into the sheetmetal a full half inch. I've stuffed this corner (and looked at it) 100 times and never before had it biting into the metal before.
 

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rocknhorse76

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Here’s mine on 37’s with the equivalent of 3” suspension and 2” body lift. Front axle is 1.5” forward and rear is back 1”. I have no inner sheet metal up front, but the fenders and grill are bolted solidly to 1.5” round tubing.
 

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rocknhorse76

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Here’s mine on 37’s with the equivalent of 3” suspension and 2” body lift. Front axle is 1.5” forward and rear is back 1”. I have no inner sheet metal up front, but the fenders and grill are bolted solidly to 1.5” round tubing.
 

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laserfish

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Feb 19, 2015
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123
Looks awesome, I will be watching this one as I have been thinking about going larger when it is time for new tires. How does it handle on the street with 37's?
Also, where did you get your tube doors, they look great.
 
OP
OP
Chief Master Sergeant

Chief Master Sergeant

Retired U.S. Air Force
Joined
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Messages
5,177
Looks awesome, I will be watching this one as I have been thinking about going larger when it is time for new tires. How does it handle on the street with 37's?
Also, where did you get your tube doors, they look great.

Just put the wheels and tires on it. The doors are from Tom’s Off-Road. They do look great, but the latches rattle. Still waiting for them to provide a fix


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nvrstuk

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Looks awesome, I will be watching this one as I have been thinking about going larger when it is time for new tires. How does it handle on the street with 37's?
Also, where did you get your tube doors, they look great.
Remember that larger OD tires affect acceleration and braking. It's a domino affect. 130# tire/wheel assbly takes a LOT more torque to get them started and to stop them from rotating than an 80# combo.

Notice that ALL new cars come with very short sidewalls? There's a reason for sure and it's not for looks. Less sidewall flexing makes a huge difference for cornering/handling. A tire/rpm chart only gives you an idea what it's going to be like at speed.

What that means is the tire/rpm chart lies when it comes to accleration- a LOT.
Let me be super clear saying this. Steve and I have talked about this with others before- -

Gears alone do not any way come close to being truthful about how if you swap gears and tires to acheive the same rpm at 70mph that your ride will feel the same when stomping on the skinny pedal 'cause it won't. Not even close. Heavier and the farther away the weight is from the center of the rotation axis the worse it will be.

Just a heads up.
 
OP
OP
Chief Master Sergeant

Chief Master Sergeant

Retired U.S. Air Force
Joined
Nov 6, 2002
Messages
5,177
Remember that larger OD tires affect acceleration and braking. It's a domino affect. 130# tire/wheel assbly takes a LOT more torque to get them started and to stop them from rotating.

Notice that ALL new cars come with very short sidewalls? There's a reason for sure and it's not for looks. Less sidewall flexing makes a huge difference for cornering/handling. A tire/rpm chart only gives you an idea what it's going to be like at speed.

What that means is the tire/rpm chart lies when it comes to accleration- a LOT.
Let me be super clear saying this. Steve and I have talked about this with others before- -

Gears alone do not any way come close to being truthful about how if you swap gears and tires to acheive the same rpm at 70mph that your ride will feel the same when stomping on the skinny pedal 'cause it won't. Not even close. Heavier and the farther away the weight is from the center of the rotation axis the worse it will be.

Just a heads up.

Thanks! I’m sure I’ll not be setting any land speed records. Installed 5.13 gears because I want to use it primarily off road and less than 55 mph. I’ll take her out for the first test this weekend. Pretty excited to see the difference. Thanks again for the heads up


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nvrstuk

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Thanks! I’m sure I’ll not be setting any land speed records. Installed 5.13 gears because I want to use it primarily off road and less than 55 mph. I’ll take her out for the first test this weekend. Pretty excited to see the difference. Thanks again for the heads up


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You'll like that setup. I run 5.13's with 40"s but I do have above average hp.
 

Yeller

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Notice that ALL new cars come with very short sidewalls? There's a reason for sure and it's not for looks. Less sidewall flexing makes a huge difference for cornering/handling. A tire/rpm chart only gives you an idea what it's going to be like at speed.
I've been told by a few designers that it started because aluminum and steel were cheaper than rubber. Now it is just the style, love it or hate it.
 

nvrstuk

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... rubber is definitely lighter than alum so the $ factor like you said is probably the driver. 99% of the time it is anyway.

Heck, Ford quit painting screw heads the body color decades ago. I watched their promo film/video on building the Fox body
 
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