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Full width axles

Apogee

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 26, 2005
Messages
6,037
Not narrowed and the diff ends up under the frame. More than I want to deal with plus there's almost no room between diff and driver side hub

The effort involved with making a HPD44 8x170 is greater than the effort involved with putting a Super Duty D60 under an EB, which has been done countless times in many different ways...radius arm, 3-link, 4-link (parallel and triangulated), etc. While I think it would be cool to fabricate some D44 knuckles for the 8x170mm unit bearing hub assemblies as a cool engineering/fab project, it would be even better to have the strength of the D60 behind it.
 

Yeller

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Mar 27, 2012
Messages
6,033
Loc.
Rogers County Oklahoma
I never believe in spending money on a 44. However if your bent on it, get normal 8 lug outers from an F250. There’s enough meat to redrill the metric pattern.
 

79INA69

Jr. Member
Joined
Apr 30, 2018
Messages
159
I second running the D60, but another option would be to swap axles in from an early housing 10.25 sterling that has the 8x6.5 pattern, unless you have a late model 37 spline.
 

jmhend

Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 25, 2007
Messages
2,736
Here's some pics of mine with the 44. I'm pretty sure the 60s short side is shorter.
I have seen this bronco and I will tell you no matter what since you (and I) are close you have to go look at this bronco.. you will be shocked at the little things that went i to this build...

Trust me..

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

KyleQ

Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 24, 2008
Messages
5,480
What are you doing that warrants the metric rear 8 lug axle? Like the only point of that is to match a front axle as you can arguably build the factory 9" to handle the power of that rear axle.

If you are going to run a full width D44 front then I would match it with a full width rear 9" to match it, KISS. 37" tires are on the bigger side for a D44 but that is taking into consideration that I wheel with reckless abandon with a trailer queen, so a 50/50 build should be totally fine. The WH chromo axles are relatively cheap and will take some power and abuse without instantly giving up.
 
OP
OP
H

Highrollerz23

New Member
Joined
Oct 3, 2020
Messages
12
Loc.
POTTSTOWN
So i just ordered the James duff offset spring buckets for the full width axles. I am picking up a full length ford 9" this weekend. and have someone who is supposed to come pick up the pair of 1 tons tomorrow. Might all just work out yet. what is everyone using for springs front and rear? I had a thought reguarding the rear springs. what is stopping anyone from using a 2nd set of the wide stance spring buckets in the back and mounting a pair of lower buckets to the leaf perches. then running coils in the back. then set up for a 4 link. i wonder if everything would be in alignment for the springs.
 

Apogee

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 26, 2005
Messages
6,037
...what is everyone using for springs front and rear? I had a thought reguarding the rear springs. what is stopping anyone from using a 2nd set of the wide stance spring buckets in the back and mounting a pair of lower buckets to the leaf perches. then running coils in the back. then set up for a 4 link. i wonder if everything would be in alignment for the springs.

You just basically described the James Duff 4-link kit, and would probably be time and money ahead to just buy that IMO.
 

jmhend

Bronco Guru
Joined
Dec 25, 2007
Messages
2,736
Hello all. I'm new to this forum so go easy on me here. Iv been online for 2 says looking up articles on the topic. Everywhere I turn, I'm finding " do your research" and "there's tons of write-ups, just look it up" no one seems to answer any questions. Maybe I'm missing it but I'm not seeing much.

My questions involve running a dana60 from a 2001 f350. I'm torn on full length vs. cutting it down. The short side of the axle is very short. I'd like to stay full width but the differential ends up under the frame. I've read that 3.5" suspension lift is enough to clear it. Does that mean it will fit but have no up travel? I've also read that 5.5" lift is the ticket.

If cutting down is the way to go, if read that 4", 5", and 6" is the right amount to take off. I seen the guy who put 6" was too much and puts the differential in to the oil pan.

Does anyone have any first hand experience doing this and did the work themselves?

Things to consider, I'm going to be running a 5.8l w/automatic c6. I know the suspension setup matters but im going to let the axle length determine that. And the rear is a sterling 10.5. It will be a 50/50 road/trail on 37" tires. Trail usage is mild to medium rocky terrain.

Thanks for having me. Cheers!

First off..
Welcome to this wonderful site.
I recently got 2 Dana60 front axles in a week. An 04 and a 92. 04 is a unit bearing. I will use the 92 d60 since its already 8x6.5 bolt pattern and I have the matching Sterling. Going the stay full length and just get the right backspacing on wheels. I'll do whatever I can to keep bronco as low as possible with these axles if involves cutting the frame for clearance, so be it. I expect it with a stretch, front crossmember, rear crossmember will need cutting. Hopefully it doesn't involve the oilpan. If it does, I'll figure it out.

JSmall has some great information in his build thread about full widths and look at Yeller as well ( he posted in the thread) they both have full width axles and are pretty low.

https://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=199794
 
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