Full Width Axles

[redfishtony]

OK Guys, I have read and read alot about using full width axles but have not found exactly what im looking for. Does anybody know if there is a thread detailing the process and what modifications will have to be made to make full width axles work. I have acquired a set from a 1977 F150 and was thinking about cutting the front down. After reading and looking at pictures i really like the look of the full widths. Was hoping to find some good step by step guidance with all the required mods identified. Thanks as always, TW

 

[68rockcrawler]

1-ton build thread in my signature shows how I did mine. I know there are better builds out there than mine, so keep that in mind. I don't really love my front 3-link. I wish I had gone with extended radius arms instead. Things are ridiculously tight up front with that upper link in the way.

 

[KyleQ]

I think you basically need the coil buckets for the wider track width (I believe JD makes them) and the radius arms are the same. I went full on one tons and long arms with full hydro, but there are a ton of threads out there.

 

[68ford]

Coil springs can be ran with no mods and a noticeable bow, no personal experience doing this but I know many have. Basically connect the dots with you panhard/trackbar and steering draglink. Biggest issue seems exhaust. Diff and front drive shaft are right where any long tube header will be. I had custom headers built that go over the frame which I personally love. I can not express how nice it is have all the area between the frame rails and the insides of the frame to run all lines, hoses, shifter cable and electrical and not worry about exhaust being anywhere near it.

 

[Apogee]

The rear is pretty simple, just new leaf spring pads set to the narrower width and taking pinion angle into account, then new lower shock mounts.

The front is a bit more involved, however not particularly difficult, and there are numerous options for how you may want to approach it. As noted above, if you don't have at least 3.5" of lift, then the differential/oil pan interference issues are problematic. Beyond that, if you need to have long tube headers, then fenderwell exit are probably your best bet.

Since you have a '77 F150 HP D44, you have the weld-on wedges, so you can move those inward to match the EB radius arm spacing. This will prevent the spring bow noted above. Alternatively, you can just pull out the radius arms to meet the wedges, however it tweaks the c-bushings pretty hard...if you're running long-arms, then less so. Track bar and steering round out the package.

 

[68ford]

If you use a d44, there is no oil pan clearance issue and the axle can actually compressed beyond the OEM bumpstops. I have a stock pan and high pinion full width. My axle goes up 2 inches farther than OEM bumpstops. Diff gets very close to engine mount/frame stand off part. Axle tube to pan clearance is at least an inch.

 

[Digger556]

Redfish -

The full width axles are 6" wider than stock EB. The additional width is all in the passenger side tube, so when centered, it pushes the pumpkin to the driver's side 3". Hence why clearances are improved.

Since the axle is 3" wider per side, the lower spring mounts need to be moved in or the upper spring buckets moved out. I did a combination of the two. I moved the upper spring buckets out 2" per side and the re-drilled the lower mounts to be 1" further inboard per side.

You can see what I did on pages 2-3 of my build thread.
http://www.coloradoclassicbroncos.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=5420&start=30


Front suspension work picks up and finishes on page 6
http://www.coloradoclassicbroncos.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=5420&start=150


Here you can kinda see the spring bucket extensions I made:

Here is the gusset(in the background) I added after doing some FEA work for the air bumps. Not necessary for your rig, but it does improve strength significantly.

 

[redfishtony]

Thanks everyone for the responses. I’m going to mock things up and take a look. I think I can handle making some spacers to move the spring buckets out and then adjust the holes in the base plates to move them in an inch. As for the yokes on the differentials. Will I be able to use my original drive shafts or have new ones made. I’ll try to take pics along the way. Gonna start things Saturday with painting the full width D44 and 9inch. Also these have 3.50 gears. These should be good with 33” tires, right?

 

[68ford]

Original drive shaft will bolt right up.

 

[Apogee]

...Also these have 3.50 gears. These should be good with 33” tires, right?

Most will say 4.11's would be better, or if you have an OD transmission, 4.30 or 4.56. Transmission and intended use will factor into that decision. Having run a 351W/RAN/3.50/33 combo for years, I certainly wouldn't want to do it with less torque (i.e. 302), but she flew on the freeway.

 

[redfishtony]

Most will say 4.11's would be better, or if you have an OD transmission, 4.30 or 4.56. Transmission and intended use will factor into that decision. Having run a 351W/RAN/3.50/33 combo for years, I certainly wouldn't want to do it with less torque (i.e. 302), but she flew on the freeway.

Apogee, I'm running a good strong 351W and wont be doing any serious bogging or crawling. Dirt roads and trails will be the extent of my offroading.