Friction plate issues - thoughts?

[Hallboss]

Pulled the 3-speed RAT tranny on the 73 yesterday to get to the rear main seal on my 1991+ 302 with one piece seal. It had intermittent clutch chatter when starting in 1st under load. thought it was due to it most likely saturated in oil from the rear main leak. To my surprise there wasn't a lot of oil contamination, if any, but found this issue. Friction plate and flywheel look like only 1/4 of the plate was connecting to the flywheel. Again... in the midst of fixing POs work and I don't know who or how this was installed. Researching POs receipts and online, it looks like it is a Tom's Bronco kit https://tomsoffroad.com/parts/66-77-ford-bronco-11-inch-clutch-with-50-oz-flywheel .

Questions to the experts on here:

1. Any idea what would cause the lack of full contact surface? It appears the Tom's kit looks fairly new and all bolts appeared to be torqued properly. Flywheel and Pressure Plate do not have any stamp/identifier on them to say what they are, only "made in China" on the backside of the flywheel.
2. The flywheel measures 14" wide with a 11" clutch plate. I read last night that a 14" wide flywheel should be a 168tooth? I'm thinking about buying a new flywheel, instead of resurfacing the China one. Don't want to change my starter config... any thoughts on what flywheel I get? Or do I resurface and move on?
3. Planning on purchasing the WH https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/early-bronco-centerforce-ii-11-inch-clutch-kit-sbf-v8, still questioning what flywheel I have and need though, if I don't resurface?

 

[Hallboss]

Update: confirmed it is a 164 tooth flywheel made by Perfection Clutch. Going for the resurface option with Centerforce II kit. Hope my install works better than the PO’s… .

I’m assuming the pressure plate wasn’t working properly.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Looking at the clutch friction, double check you are not getting a little weepage of gear oil from the transmission input shaft. It looks like some very early stages of oil contamination on the inside of the disk.

Or maybe someone just over lubed the clutch splines when the last one was put in.

 

[Wild horse 75]

Looks like contamination to me. Are there any hot spots on the pressure plate?

 

[Hallboss]

Looks like contamination to me. Are there any hot spots on the pressure plate?

Yes, there are hotspots on the pressure plate. Also discovered they didn’t seal the flywheel crank bolts, looked like part of the leakage into the clutch assembly as well.

 

[Broncobowsher]

You found it, oil weeping through the flywheel bolts.

 

[Wild horse 75]

Yep I’d be replacing that clutch out for sure. Machine the flywheel and make sure to use locktite on the crank bolts. That will be all the sealant you need. And clean the flywheel and pressure plate with brake clean just before you install it until the rag comes out clean. Then torque it down evenly and slowly. I never run one fastener in all the way. It’s just a gradual tightening going around in a cross pattern until they all come down then torque.

 

[Broncobowsher]

And make sure the clutch alignment tool slides in and out easily. If you have to yank it out, it will be hard to stab the transmission in. Hint, lift up so slightly on the tool as you are starting the pressure plate. There is a difference between parts being centered, and off-center but the tool holding them in place.

Took me many years to learn that. Now stabbing a transmission goes much better than before I learned that.

 

[Hallboss]

And make sure the clutch alignment tool slides in and out easily. If you have to yank it out, it will be hard to stab the transmission in. Hint, lift up so slightly on the tool as you are starting the pressure plate. There is a difference between parts being centered, and off-center but the tool holding them in place.

Took me many years to learn that. Now stabbing a transmission goes much better than before I learned that.

Appreciate this info.

 

[pcf_mark]

Since we are handing out advice..

1) Make sure the flywheel bolts are not too long - they can make contact and destroy stuff
2) Make a set of 3" long stud from all thread and put them in the lower bell housing bolt holes. Then when you stab the transmission in you can be sure you are pretty close plus you can rest it!
3) Get the throwout bearing on right. Look at the picture that comes in the box or find a good one online because it is not obvious
4) If you are replacing the pilot bearing and it is solid just tap it with a tap and run a bolt in to jack it out. If it is needle or roller bearing rent or use a slide hammer. Both will save a ton of wasted time
5) Don't forget the motor plate that can really ruin your day

 

[mrdrnac]

And make sure the clutch alignment tool slides in and out easily. If you have to yank it out, it will be hard to stab the transmission in. Hint, lift up so slightly on the tool as you are starting the pressure plate. There is a difference between parts being centered, and off-center but the tool holding them in place.

Took me many years to learn that. Now stabbing a transmission goes much better than before I learned that.

Very true statement, it makes a huge difference once you learn this simple alignment trick!