Dan Wheeler's Explorer EFI Swap Thread

[Viperwolf1]

I put one layer of electrical tape around mine just to tighten it up in the opening. It fealt a little loose in there. might try that. I wrapped in a couple of times but only one round of tape would aloow it to fit. LUK

Take a thin o-ring and stretch it around the base of the grommet. You can also buy a new grommet but they only fit tightly for a year or so. Make sure you have the mesh filter under there if you use anything around the grommet.

 

[66fora69er]

Congratulations Dan. You gotta love those "light bulb" moments.

Now on to paint and body...crap!

 

[DanWheeler]

EFI - Check.

Before: (way before - when I first got the Bronco a few years ago)

Now:

Now it's time to move on to loosening up that front suspension and saying goodbye to C-bushings and hello to bigger tires and a 609 or Dana 60 ;D (or remodel the kitchen)

Thank you all for your help. ViperWolf, Lars, Marty, 70_Steve, 70EB and everyone - I could not have done it without your help.

 

[Viperwolf1]

Big change. The only thing that looks the same in there is the battery.

 

[70EB]

Looks awesome and glad that it is running smoothly.

 

[NJB71]

Nice Job!....u are inspiring me for next month....btw where did u get the flex air intake tubing?...Stephen

 

[DanWheeler]

Nice Job!....u are inspiring me for next month....btw where did u get the flex air intake tubing?...Stephen

I got that at Schucks (O'Reily)

they have a surprinsingly good selection of 3" elbows, flex tubing, cone filters, etc.

 

[NJB71]

Thanks Dan

 

[DanWheeler]

I need to get a temperature gauge on this thing before I'm comfortable taking it any further than around the block.

My ECT is using the port on the front driver's side of the lower intake, i drilled/tapped the thermostat housing for my fan controller thermostat and the one remaining spot for a sending unit is that black piece that comes out of the front of the passenger side lower intake that goes back to the heater core.

It is tapped for a 3/8ths sending unit but I can't put anything big there because its so close to the distributor. Thats why I had to move my ACT over to the driver's side port where the Explorer gauge cluster sending unit was. Basically I swapped them because the ACT plug was too big and hit the distributors.

I have a mechanical temp sending unit and gauge but I think the bulb on the sending unit is too long to fit in the black piece that goes to the heater core.

Can I drill/tap through the top of that black piece so I can put the sending unit straight down? Seems like this would block flow to the heater core but I guess thats not a huge deal.

 

[DanWheeler]

Black thing circled in red - can I tap through the top of that? I thought someone posted a picture that had done that

 

[Tito]

I did it, worked well.

 

[DanWheeler]

I did it, worked well.

sweet, i was thinking it was either you or Jesse who did that.

how do you get that thing off? obviously the top part doesn't rotate. Do you just unscrew the bottom part and it threads out of the lower intake?

I just need to bend it up enough to stuff a rag under there to catch the shavings.

 

[Tito]

Yeah I just undid the nut under it, lifted it, put a rag in there and drilled and tapped. I used plenty of tape on it too to be sure it sealed.

 

[broncokak]

Dan, how did you make out with the hanging RPM issue? I still have that after 5 years, not as bad as it was but still there. I've been following the procedures you used and my give it another try to see if I can fix it. Thanks. Great job BTW on recording the swap.

 

[DanWheeler]

Dan, how did you make out with the hanging RPM issue? I still have that after 5 years, not as bad as it was but still there. I've been following the procedures you used and my give it another try to see if I can fix it. Thanks. Great job BTW on recording the swap.

thanks, I'm thinking about condensing it down into another thread that is a little more readable.

After resolving the massive vacuum leak the hanging idle is not really noticeable.

From what i've read, the computer is programmed to do that to a certain extent maybe more so because I am running an A9P automatic ECU.

Once I get a working tach, i'll have a better idea of what the RPMs are doing and how quickly it returns to idle.

 

[broncokak]

thanks, I'm thinking about condensing it down into another thread that is a little more readable.

After resolving the massive vacuum leak the hanging idle is not really noticeable.

From what i've read, the computer is programmed to do that to a certain extent maybe more so because I am running an A9P automatic ECU.

Once I get a working tach, i'll have a better idea of what the RPMs are doing and how quickly it returns to idle.

I'm running the A9P if I remember right but for a manual as I have a ZF in mine. IF I only rev up a little, less than 1200RPM it returns nicely but if I go over that it will hang at 1200RPM for about 2.5 seconds. I unhooked the VSS and it helped but it still hangs more than I care for.

 

[DanWheeler]

I got a temperature gauge installed tonight so I could watch the temperatures on the new Taurus fan and Explorer 4.0 radiator.

I'm not sure how acurate my temp gauge is. It's a mechanical gauge and I may have kinked the tubing removing it but it seems like its pretty close.

I had to move my fan thermostat from the water neck to the heater core outlet on top of the lower manifold and put the temp gauge sender on the water neck. I couldnt get the black piece unscrewed easily and the temp gauge sender was too long to go into the port on the side where the ECT sensor normally goes.

Not sure if the water neck is the best place to monitor water temperature because its not getting an accurate reading when the thermostat is closed. Someone said that was the best place for a fan thermostat sending unit so thats where I put it. Now the temp gauge sending unit is on the water neck but I may swap them back when/if I get a new temp gauge with a shorter sending unit.

blah blah blah

The Taurus fan and Explorer radiator seem to keep up OK idleing in my garage when its 40 degrees out. Not a very good test. I let my registration expire so I can't drive it around to test.

Between the engine thermostat and the Derale adjustable fan control, I'm getting wide swings in temperature from 170-195. I'm used to mechanical fans that run all the time and the temp is regulated by the thermostat and stays pretty consistent at 185 or 195 depending on the stat. Is this normal?

On low speed, the new radiator/fan combo takes about a minute to go from 190 to 170 at idle.

I turned the fan off and let the temperature climb to 210 and then switched on the high speed fan and it brought it down to 170 in under 2 minutes. I'm not sure why the engine thermostat didn't close and prevent it from dropping below 190ish.

I also have yet to see how my transmission plays into this now that the trans lines are plumbed through the radiator and then into a Derale auxiliary fan.

...

I have to say, this sure was a lot less complicated with a stick shift and a 302! ;D

 

[DirtDonk]

Ahhh, so it was less complicated that you wanted all this time, eh? Well now, that's a different story then.
For that, I'd start with a...

Well, you know the drill.

Have fun!

Paul

 

[DanWheeler]

well i've got a groaner power steering pump

maybe I ran it dry or it was on its way out but man is it loud and its not getting any better. Was gonna drive the Bronco to work today for it's maiden voyage outside my neighborhood but couldn't handle the embarassment.

I just called up PSC Motorsports and they have a pump for the Explorer motors that is supposed to drive hydroboost, steering and ram assist. Just needs the explorer bracket to be modified because the hoses point downwards.

hoping to get some pictures from them soon.

 

[Tito]

FWIW my explorer motor is very happy at 210, thats with an aftermarket gauge. Stock thermostat, not sure what temp it is.