C6 Reverse Manual Valve Body ??

[crab]

So, this C6 has seen some abuse. Many of you have seen the you tube videos of my bronco pulling full size trucks out of the mud and broncos out of the snow. The rest of the time it is bombing the dunes with very little pavement miles. The original build (427stroker/C6) had about 6k mikes in it over the past 10 or so years. Last year, I put a TCI reverse manual valve body and winters gate shifter in after bypassing “N” and shearing the park pin. I really like the RMVB, but the trans overheated If I didn’t turn on external cooler even down the HWY. I finally lost second gear a few months ago and the bronco is back down at Cordrays in Albany (they have done all the work since the beginning). They’re not sure why it’s only second gear and everything else is firm?? The current valve body does NOT have braking which I really want but was told it will build even more heat. Any suggestions or recommendations? This is what I’m looking at:
https://broaderperformance.com/product/c6-reverse-full-manual-valve-body-w-brake-in-1st/

 

[brewchief]

I have that valve body in my C6, I don't think there is anything with the valve body that's going to make it run hotter, mine builds some heat but I have a pretty loose converter, I think most of my heat is from converter slip, my converter stalls 3600-3700 with my lame mostly stock 92ish 5.0.

The engine braking in 1st can be a bit aggressive on the street, pretty much want to roll up to a stop sign in 2nd and downshift when you stop.

No 2nd gear sounds like a band problem or the servo that applies the band.

I had looked at the instructions for a tci valve body and they did something different from broader with the servo, pay attention to that area if switching valves bodys.

Sent from my SM-T510 using Tapatalk

 

[crab]

I have that valve body in my C6, I don't think there is anything with the valve body that's going to make it run hotter, mine builds some heat but I have a pretty loose converter, I think most of my heat is from converter slip, my converter stalls 3600-3700 with my lame mostly stock 92ish 5.0.

The engine braking in 1st can be a bit aggressive on the street, pretty much want to roll up to a stop sign in 2nd and downshift when you stop.

No 2nd gear sounds like a band problem or the servo that applies the band.

I had looked at the instructions for a tci valve body and they did something different from broader with the servo, pay attention to that area if switching valves bodys.

Sent from my SM-T510 using Tapatalk

My current TCI has a pretty aggressive down shift from 3 to 2. I understand what you are saying being stopped to go 2-1. I’m a little on the fence since I do street drive some, and it’s nice downshifting to 1 and accelerating between lights and able to let off the throttle and coast in 1st. I’m assuming you can’t do that with the braking in 1st and the braking will be applied when ever you are off throttle? I think I could adjust my driving and would be a lot happier on the trail
The original build on my C6 was the best of everything. I’ll know later this week what failed as they tear into it. It does have a billet TCI servo which makes me a little nervous putting TCI components back in. Though it has held up behind the 427 quite well.

 

[brewchief]

Yeah you don't get the coast in 1st gear, for my use I'm not sure I would do the braking in 1st again, there are times at the sand dunes when dropping down the backside of a hill where it's a bit too much drag and will slide the tires and get squirrelly, throttle or shifting to 2nd fixes it.

I built my trans with a billet superior R servo with the E apply lever, there was something in the TCI instructions about removing one o ring and maybe blocking a passage in the servo, the broader valve body didn't do that. I think by removing the o ring it uses more surface for application of the band but then must rely on the spring for all of the release. Probably just a different way of doing things.

Sent from my SM-T510 using Tapatalk