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Bronco Graveyard signal switch wiring

fluffybunny

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Oct 28, 2015
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I've searched the forum and the internet but haven't found it. I bought a new signal switch harness from Bronco Graveyard and wired it into my new Painless harness using the diagram/chart found on Tom's Bronco since the switch harness wire colors were identical but it's not correct. I emailed Bronco Graveyard 4 days ago and never received a response. Any help would be appreciated.
 

BGBronco

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Assuming you have the right year, I think all of the switch wiring is the same no matter where you purchased it. I just put a new one in a month or so ago, marked everything on a sheet of paper and still managed to reverse the order. when I put it back together.
 
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fluffybunny

fluffybunny

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Assuming you have the right year, I think all of the switch wiring is the same no matter where you purchased it. I just put a new one in a month or so ago, marked everything on a sheet of paper and still managed to reverse the order. when I put it back together.
Thanks. I'll look at it again to see if I put a pin or 8 in the wrong slot.
 

DirtDonk

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What part of it doesn’t work?
And it shouldn’t matter what year or column, since you have a Payless wiring harness, but what year bronco?
And is it the stock original steering column?
Manual or automatic?
Did the turn signals work before the Painless harness install? And whatever is not working now, is it different from what caused you to replace the turn signal switch in the first place?
 
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fluffybunny

fluffybunny

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1970 302 with 3 on tree. It was a basket case when I bought it - all of the wiring had been trashed and nothing worked so I started from scratch. Blinkers and headlights are not working. The only wires in the harness that are not connected are the brake light switch on the combination valve (H block, I thinks it's called) and the reverse switch since I plan on running different back-up lights. I plan on calling Painless this morning to see if this would affect the issues I'm having. Thanks.

Update: Just spoke to Painless and they told me make sure that that the headlights are grounded well through the buckets and to check my power at the dimmer switch to ensure I'm getting power in and out. I suspect that poor grounds may be the issue so I will work on that this weekend. He suggested running a new 14 ga. ground so that's the plan.
 
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DirtDonk

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Yes always to new and updated and extra grounds. Ford was a little weak in the grounding department when it came to Broncos. Every other vehicle got more love, but not the Bronco in this instance.
You need the main ground cable to the engine block of course. Then you need a dedicated body ground from the battery to somewhere nearby. Then another one from the back of the engine to the firewall (Ford never did this for Broncos, but did for other vehicles) to help with the rest of the stuff.
Those are the bare minimums. Often, depending upon how much rust, how many layers of paint, or just old age, you need a new dedicated ground wire from either the battery or just another part of the body that is grounded, to the radiator core support so that the headlights and turn signals get a better ground than they usually have.
When these were new, all the spot welds and contact points between body panels was enough. Fast forward 50 years and those interfaces are not so good at passing electrons anymore.
So as we like to say, grounds, grounds, grounds... If you can think of or see another good place to put another jumper wire (think windshield frame, or dash board) it's usually a good idea.

Good luck.

Paul
 
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fluffybunny

fluffybunny

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I had read past articles on extra grounds so I added two additional grounds- battery to inner fender and engine to frame. I will add another one from back of engine to firewall as well. When installing my grounds, I used my Dremel with a grinding wheel to clean the ground area and then put dielectric grease over the installed grounds. As you said, grounds are good. I'll hopefully have this sorted this weekend.
 
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fluffybunny

fluffybunny

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Probably solved. Bad grounds on blinkers and a dimmer switch that wasn't working. Thank you, everyone, for your input.
 
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