Broken Head Flange? Gasket

[eRandall38]

Sorry if I am using incorrect terminology. I believe the head flange gasket is broken.

I was hearing an exhaust leak type noise when accelerating. Hooked up a shop vac to the exhaust and blew air in, found the air hissing out around the passenger side valve cover area. Initially thought it was a bad valve cover, but eventually realized it was coming around the header. You can see the, what I think you call?, head flange gasket is broken. That is where the air comes out.

I've attached some photos. 1 of the damaged area. 1 of the a wider view.

I am not too mechanically savvy, but really enjoy learning. DirtDonk has been helping me through all sorts of projects on my new Bronco!

Can I just unscrew those 8 bolts, pull out the headers, pull out the damaged gasket, replace with a new one, and screw the 8 bolts back in? Or is there quite a bit more involved?

I haven't seen any set ups identical to mine, but I have been reading a lot about the valve cover screws needing a certain torque and order of torque. I had to unscrew two valve cover screws to move something holding wires to get down in there. Would be nice to know if I need to do something to the valve cover now as well.

https://ibb.co/gRNLZNg
https://ibb.co/KsMXxnM

 

[langester]

Those are "header flange gaskets" or "header gaskets".I would order some graphite header gaskets to replace the ones you have. Unbolt them, replace the gaskets. Headers are notorious for leaking, good gaskets are a great place to start. They also make locking header bolts to help keep them tight. Most of the vendors should carry what you need.
Good luck with your project!

 

[DirtDonk]

Yep, what langester said.
There are in fact some headers that do have split flanges, so might appear to be broken when they're not. But in your case you have a 1-piece flange clamping all four header tubes to the head, and it's only the gasket that has split it looks like.

I'm glad you're fixing it now though, rather than putting up with the ticking sound. If left long enough, the escaping gasses can actually etch the head surface and the header flange.
There are two or three good style of header gaskets, and two or three styles of locking bolts.
We sell the State-8 brand, which at least right now are probably the most well known.

Here's our header page: https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/category/bronco_headers with the different accessories we sell for them.
The Remflex are good gaskets, as are some that are malleable copper, and some other semi-exotic stuff. The standard "paper" (fiber reinforced and not just plain paper) gaskets are well known for ending up like yours if the headers come even slightly loose.

That's where the bolts come in though. State-8's are not inexpensive (of course not!) and not just a quick install either. But it's not that bad, and they sure do work.
The interference fit with the header tube keeps it from ever loosening until you want it to.

When you do remove the bolts and pull the header back (hopefully you have the room to work on it in that tight area) inspect the mating surfaces for any damage or less-than-perfectly smooth surfaces that might promote future leakage too.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[eRandall38]

Thanks guys, appreciate the input.

You were right, not much too it, although it is a tight space to work in with some rusted bolts.

The graphite header gaskets on 4x4 look great... but I don't think they are the same shape. See photo
https://ibb.co/WK5cHW5

The top side of mine is straight across, as opposed to dips like seen on the 4x4 graphite. The shape of my header gasket seems to match the shape of my flange as well. I assume I need it to be matching?

I called pep boys/oreilly/autozone, all the local guys. They are telling me it does not need to be exact and recommended I could pick these up

https://www.amazon.com/Fel-Pro-MS90000-Manifold-Gasket-Set/dp/B000C2EC6Y


If the shape does not need to be exact... then 4x4 or pick up should work. But if it does need to be exact I will have to keep looking. Found some paper ones, but would prefer to go to a metal type.

 

[Jdgephar]

I went with the copper ones. They haven't leaked now for a couple years. The type in your Amazon link I've had leak before too.

Mr Gasket 7160...cheaper at Autozone
https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-7160-Copper-Exhaust/dp/B000BWCG7W/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Ford%7C54&Model=Bronco%7C633&Year=1968%7C1968&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=1&vehicleType=automotive

 

[DirtDonk]

Well, they don't actually "need" to be exact matches to your ports, but it's not a bad thing. So the closer they are the better in my opinion.

Most Ford 289/302/351W exhaust gaskets will work. Some are larger to accommodate some of the larger port heads, but most are within a certain range and are compatible.
If you can find some that are closer matches to your ports, size and shape-wise, I would try that first.

And boy oh boy, all of yours were leaking it looks like. Better check the other side too, if you have not already decided to.
Didn't you start out with this Bronco with loose header bolts though? If you did, then that's at least in part why the gaskets failed and look like they leaked out of every port. Doesn't take long for a loose bolt and a leak to turn into multiple loose bolts and leaks!

Glad you're gettin' it fixed.

Paul

 

[blubuckaroo]

I've had several cars with headers, and have never had gasket issues.
I use the cheap ones that come with Hooker headers, and the regular non-locking bolts.
I do use Nord-Lock washers on the header bolts though.
I think the trick is to get the bolts tight, and retighten a couple times, each after a few heat cycles.
But, the bolts must really be tightened properly. It may take several wrench combinations to get onto those stinkers, but proper tightening is the key.
I use crows foot sockets, regular sockets, flex extensions, and sometimes just a regular end wrench.
Once the bolts are final tightened, I've never had any loosten up. And that's with plain old header bolts.