Wheel Alignment shop who have people used?

[Gas Pig]

Ok I know know this might seem like a silly question but what shop is good enough or experienced enough to deal with and old truck like a Bronco? The toe adjustment is easy for any shop but since there is no camber adjustment on the Dana 44 would they really know what to do with it?

Normally I’m not sure I would even bother with it but it seems like this truck has a lot of camber. Maybe I’m way over thinking it???

 

[B RON CO]

Hi, I would go and talk to the guys at a few big tire stores like Goodyear or Mavis. See what they say about the Bronco. They might have a guy who is good with old trucks. Maybe there is a 4 wheel drive or off road shop nearby. In any case learn as much as you can about toe, caster, camber, tire pressure, etc, so you can tell them what you are looking for. Maybe not factory specs. If you have them take the Bronco in, get the #s in a printout or screenshot, and have them set the toe. Then figure out if you should do anything else. Make sure your front end is in good shape. If a bushing or link is worn, the alignment won't mean anything. Good luck

 

[Johnnyb]

I went to a 4-wheel drive specialty in my area and got the glad-hand. Also, they didn't tighten the lock-nuts on the heim tie rod and used a pipe wrench on the powder coating (where there were propper places to secure a real wrench!

I have since gotten some personal referrals to a shop in Prescott and will re-align there.

Moral is to ask around before you go!

-JB

 

[SteveL]

Out here theres Johnsons alignment in torrance.

 

[DirtDonk]

It “seems “like it has too much camber? Any alignment shop can check for you.
Find someone nearby that will give you a quick readout so you know exactly what you have.
Then you can either tweak it yourself, or have a little more time to find a shop that can deal with it.
All aspects of a Dana 44 can be “adjusted“ to a certain extent. Some take an extra part or two, and some take a lot of extra work.
But it can be done.

 

[Gas Pig]

It “seems “like it has too much camber? Any alignment shop can check for you.
Find someone nearby that will give you a quick readout so you know exactly what you have.
Then you can either tweak it yourself, or have a little more time to find a shop that can deal with it.
All aspects of a Dana 44 can be “adjusted“ to a certain extent. Some take an extra part or two, and some take a lot of extra work.
But it can be done.

Yeah that a good point! I’ll have them check it out and if I have to add the spindle slims myself. Im pretty sure the spindle slims are ordered my what you need to compensate for and just go through the hassle of adding them in… right?

 

[DirtDonk]

Two ways to get some camber changes. Spindle shims, and/or ball-joint eccentrics.
Neither are perfect, but both should work fine. And they can work together. With the bonus of any left-over adjustment of the eccentrics can be utilized to improve caster.

The bad news is that you have only a maximum taper of 1.5° for either method.
Don't ignore caster and camber angles in your camber factoring either. An incorrectly adjusted toe-in setting can make the front look like it's got more positive camber than it really does.
Factory spec is:
Camber - 1-2 degrees positive.
Caster - 2-4 degrees positive.
Toe-in - 1/16 to 1/4 inch.

That 2 degrees of camber is a lot, and you can really see it. But it's still within spec.
You'd like from .5 to .75 degrees if I remember discussions here.
For caster you'd prefer 4-8 degrees over anything less.
For toe-in, I've always recommended starting with factory spec, then changing it a tiny bit every week or so of driving until you're satisfied that it's the best it can be.

If they give you degrees of toe-in, you need to ask if it's just the factory specification (factory size tires) or if their machine compensates for your tire size.
And if they don't have a printer, you need to take a good clear shot of their screen for the record.

Paul

 

[joshua]

Where are you getting spindle shims? I remember reading not to long ago, that they are no longer produced. I have a 44 that I’m adding f150 knuckles to and would love to know if anyone has a source.

 

[DirtDonk]

Seems like somebody finds a set now and then, so maybe they do still pop up.
But yeah, the Ford 5-bolt disc brake spindles changes that for the worse. Not as many were out there to begin with, so not many are likely out there to be found.
Seems like another market, waiting to be tapped again.
You may have to settle for ball-joint eccentrics.

How far out are yours?

 

[73azbronco]

I went to a 4-wheel drive specialty in my area and got the glad-hand. Also, they didn't tighten the lock-nuts on the heim tie rod and used a pipe wrench on the powder coating (where there were propper places to secure a real wrench!

I have since gotten some personal referrals to a shop in Prescott and will re-align there.

Moral is to ask around before you go!

-JB

oldtimer works at local firestone here in Payson, might call them.

 

[ep67bro]

I use a local tire and repair shop for this kind of stuff. I can actually talk to the guy thats going to do it and if he has a question he will ask, not just wing it. But talk to the people at the shops and ask them questions that someone with knowledge of these older trucks will understand.

 

[Gas Pig]

Ok I talked with my mechanic who does my other vehicles. He has a rack and I told him my thoughts. I’m going up there on Thursday and he’ll check it out and give my the readings. Then I’ll see from there.

 

[Gas Pig]

Seems like somebody finds a set now and then, so maybe they do still pop up.
But yeah, the Ford 5-bolt disc brake spindles changes that for the worse. Not as many were out there to begin with, so not many are likely out there to be found.
Seems like another market, waiting to be tapped again.
You may have to settle for ball-joint eccentrics.

How far out are yours?

Hey Paul, do you have a source on the correct ball-joint eccentrics?

Thanks Jeff

 

[DirtDonk]

Haven't had to buy any in several years, so maybe someone else can chime in with their experiences.
I would think someone like a NAPA or a RockAuto.com would have them, but not sure. Heck, I used to just walk into the local Montgomery Warn or Sears Auto Center and they'd have them on the wall!

Paul

 

[dmoses42]

Is it the same thing that Rockauto calls Alignment Caster/Camber Bushings?

 

[DirtDonk]

It could be, but that's the name that I think was used for the '80 and later TTB setups. The name may have crossed over, but you still have to make sure it fits your year/model of axle.

Paul

 

[Gas Pig]

Ok my mechanic said my toe was .55 so to much and my camber was right in factory specs, but my caster was at 0.

With a 2 1/2” lift I must not have bought the right C-cup bushings or I put them in wrong?

Any thoughts?

 

[m_m70]

What c-bushings did you install?? What is your truck doing other than "seeming to have too much camber"? Have you added anything else to the front end like drop pitman arm and drop trac-bar bracket or riser?? Hell, any pics (always fun)??

I used 7* with my 2.5" lift along with a drop pitman arm and drop trac-bar bracket, adjustable trac bar and adjustable drag link and my truck tracks perfect.

 

[OX1]

Find someone that works on new Superduties, as they are aligned for camber (and/or minor caster) with the same type "shim" as EB's.

 

[DirtDonk]

Ok my mechanic said my toe was .55 so to much and my camber was right in factory specs, but my caster was at 0.

Camber at “factory spec“ is often too much. Which may be contributing to what you think is too much camber.
Even just 2° is noticeable to the eye. And 2° is still within spec.
So did he give you all the exact specifications, or just generalities? Do you have a print out?

With a 2 1/2” lift I must not have bought the right C-cup bushings or I put them in wrong?

You can’t base any decisions on that information alone. There’s no way to know unless you measured your caster before the lift.

Were there already offset C-bushings installed before? Or just the original rubber bushings?
As we have found many times over the years, your bronco may have been built with zero caster to begin with. Or very low numbers.
Original specification was pretty low compared to what we are used to, and what we would like to see nowadays. Made it easier to steer with Manual Steering.

So at this point, you have to know what C-bushings you have. You have to look at them, or maybe even remove them, to see if they are in backwards. And go from there.
You should be able to see if they installed wrong by carefully observing them from the side up close. If they are only 2° though, it’s harder to tell. Four and 7° versions are easy to tell visually.