Using factory locking hubs with chevy disk conversion

[kcc0521]

I was watching a video on youtube and they said you needed aftermarket hubs that don't use the small snap ring when installing the chevy disk brake conversion. I am planning to install mine this weekend with the original hubs. Can anyone confirm that this will work.

Thanks,
Ken

 

[Skiddy]

true you will not be able to get the snap ring on. it will work just fine without the small snap ring. you can use a bolt and washer on the end instead of the snap ring, some even go without the bolt/washer and no problems.

 

[bronconut73]

Did it 25 years ago.
Stock Ford hubs still there, still fine.

 

[okie4570]

My conversion had the bolt and washer, but when I stepped up to chrome moly, the end of the axle shafts aren't threaded for a bolt, so now I run no snap ring or bolt and washer. Have used Mile Marker and Warn hubs.

 

[kcc0521]

I am surprised there is room for the head of a bolt and washer behind the hub. Thanks for all the help.

 

[Pa PITT]

.... I'll swear that I used the snap ring on mine. While one we did on my buddies his had to use the bolt & washer.
........
... Also for some reason I'm thinking If you can get a Chevy outer stub .. It'll take the snap ring. While the Ford will need the Bolt & washer. Not sure just been to long.

 

[Quick & Dirty]

... Also for some reason I'm thinking If you can get a Chevy outer stub .. It'll take the snap ring. While the Ford will need the Bolt & washer. Not sure just been to long.

The Chevy outers are just a bit longer, to match the longer Chevy spindle. If you're replacing axle shafts, this is the way to go.

The snap ring, or bolt and washer keep the seal tight up against the back of the spindle.

 

[Digger556]

There are two ways to do it.

1) Get the Chevy stub shafts. They are 0.2" longer, just like the spindle and will put everything back into alignment. NOTE: The Chevy stubs use a 297X (760x) U-joint, so you may need to upgrade your inners if you still have the smaller U-joints

2) Use a Dremel and one spline at a time, create a new snap ring groove 0.2" further out on the shaft.


I've done both. I used Chevy stubs, but then broke one and was forced to run my Ford spare with the 2nd groove cut in it. If you're careful, it looks factory.

 

[kcc0521]

There are two ways to do it.

1) Get the Chevy stub shafts. They are 0.2" longer, just like the spindle and will put everything back into alignment. NOTE: The Chevy stubs use a 297X (760x) U-joint, so you may need to upgrade your inners if you still have the smaller U-joints

2) Use a Dremel and one spline at a time, create a new snap ring groove 0.2" further out on the shaft.


I've done both. I used Chevy stubs, but then broke one and was forced to run my Ford spare with the 2nd groove cut in it. If you're careful, it looks factory.

Is there any reason why the bolt won't work? It seems a bit easier.

 

[DirtDonk]

Not everyone has the threaded hole, even from the factory. But if yours do, you can use them.
I don't believe that the washer holds the same tolerance as the factory snap ring. But that last is just a guess based on the fact that the ring groove is further inward than the end of the axle and the washer can only hold up against the axle end.

I doubt that's an issue though, and many have used the washer method with aftermarket hubs. Not sure how many use them with factory hubs, as that was not always much of an issue.

Has anyone ever just milled down the end of the spindle instead? Just enough to get that snap ring groove exposed again?
That's probably the most finicky solution, due to the fine threads. But if you thread on the nuts first, then grind off the end, you should be able to save the starting threads and not have any trouble in the future.

Theoretically...%)

Paul

 

[Rustytruck]

There is a third way. The steel slug that mounts on the axle shaft spline machine it back on the snap ring side until you can mount the snap ring on the axle. Only issue with this is the plastic knob for switching lock and unlock moves in on its housing some but still stays sealed in its o-rings. The axle shaft stays in its seals on the back side of the spindle. Something you can loose if you don't retain the axle shaft. This way the system works properly and you can use the superior stock Bronco hubs.

 

[Yeller]

I've run years without anything just fine, but it does help hold the axle in the seal on the back of the spindle but I've never seen it cause a problem unless you have habits of taking it swimming, but then did the lock out leak or the spindle......

 

[kcc0521]

I've run years without anything just fine, but it does help hold the axle in the seal on the back of the spindle but I've never seen it cause a problem unless you have habits of taking it swimming, but then did the lock out leak or the spindle......

Were you running the stock locking hub?

 

[Digger556]

Is there any reason why the bolt won't work? It seems a bit easier.

Yes, there is a design reason. The fit between the shaft and the inner splined sleeve of the lockout is not perfectly tight. It has a prescribed amount of clearance to facilitate easy installation and removal.

Because of this, there can be a minute amount of motion between the two parts which can work a bolt loose over time. The snap ring retainer does not suffer from this problem.

While most get away with the bolt, but it is not good practice and given enough time, all will loosen up.

 

[DirtDonk]

I'm in favor of leaving the bolt off too. Didn't like it, just didn't know why. Makes sense Digger.
If you can't reinstall the snap-ring, just don't. And leave it at that.

One of the best ways to keep moisture out of the assembly is to pack the spindle with grease in the first place. That old design with a loose seal and a floating loose seal isn't going to keep a determined molecule of water out if it really wants to get in.
But a boatload of grease (not too much of course, but that'd be hard to achieve anyway) will do the job better.

This whole issue about a missing retainer is really a non-issue anyway. Ever since Warn came out with their modular design lockout and apparently based it's size on the Chevy spacing, 99% of Ford users of Warn hubs have not been able to reinstall the snap ring.
Same for most people doing the disc brake swap using the GM-based spindle and the factory Spicer lockouts.

Plenty of trucks running around without the ring, or the washer and bolt, and not suffering any great drama or trauma.
That's not to say that it wasn't put there for a good reason. Just that I don't remember ever hearing of anyone blaming a failure of anything on a missing snap ring.

The whole expected routine after fording streams, living in snow for a winter, or just living in a wet environment, is to pull the whole thing apart on a regular basis and make sure there is no water in there, clean and re-pack the bearings with new grease, and start counting the days until the next time you have to go through that.
It was all part of the pride in ownership of a vehicle with this type of setup and put to the use it was expected to see back then.

And kcc, I think there is a misconception either by the person in the video you were talking about, or in what you thought you heard them say.
As far as I know, all the aftermarket locking hubs expect you to reinstall that snap-ring as well.
Maybe that's changed. I just tried to find the instruction sheet on Warn's site, but came up empty handed. If anyone has a copy handy, maybe they can check to see if they mention the snap ring.

Paul

 

[kcc0521]

Thanks for all the help. I will be putting it all back together this weekend.