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Suspension build help

dixie4x4

New Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2007
Messages
48
Loc.
Mandeville, LA
Ok, ok I need help. I also need advice on my bronco.

I am doing a full custom front end suspension. I plan to install hoops, new shocks, and new springs. My question is a many part question...

First of all, if I have a shop install the springs BEFORE the rest of the build, can get away with not messing with brake lines or anything else. They would do it cheap enough that it would be worth my while to not mess with it myself. Springs make me nervous.

After the new springs are in, can I take the truck to a friends house with a cutting torch to remove the old shock mounts and drive it without shocks? How far would that be possible/bearable?

Am I correct in assuming once the springs are in, there is no real danger in the suspension system? I can freely remove or install anything I want at that point without worry or having to get too technical. The shocks should have no sprung tension, so I can remove them without jacks or anything on the frame, right?

Thanks a lot for the help with any of the above questions, I have done a couple newer vehicles suspension modifications, but pre-coilover is before my time and I hate them too. I want to do it myself (minus springs) to learn the suspension system better and to not pay the ridiculous price I expect to be quoted to break out cutting torches and welders.
 

TN1776

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 24, 2006
Messages
2,632
Your fears are somewhat unfounded when it comes to removing and re-installing springs. The front coils are super easy - all you have to do is jack up the front to allow the springs to go to full droop, support the frame and support the axle in full droop, and unbolt the coils. There is no spring tension on them at all at this point.

The rear leaf springs are a little more involved with the inverted shackle setup but still not too bad. I had absolutely no problem removing or reinstalling front or rear springs.

As for driving without shocks - I would not drive very far or very fast. I've driven my rig without rear shocks, its not terrible but its not something I'd recommend. The fronts on the other hand, I wouldn't drive anywhere without them. The coils are way too soft and you'd be hopping like a lowrider on hydraulics.

To answer your question about shocks - they are even safer to remove than springs as they are not a weight bearing suspension component. Shocks are merely dampeners and do not support weight at all.

Finally, I would not drive the rig anywhere with lift springs and shocks that are too short. When shocks overextend or bottom out, bad things happen. When I was in college, I was riding in a buddy's Jeep that he'd just had lifted. The first railroad crossing we came to resulted in ripping the lower shock mounts off his rear axle. Not fun.
 

sworddancer

New Member
Joined
Mar 22, 2009
Messages
36
Loc.
Corpus Christi, TX.
Gas charged shocks (if you have them) will have some tension but it's nothing to hard. They are removed and installed all the time without jacking, but they need to be man handled to compress them to get them out and in. Your plan sounds allright to me. For a day or 2 without shocks as long as your fairly carefull should be fine. You will bob up and down a little more and may be a little more bouncy when you hit the brakes but if your not takeing on rush hour I'd probbably do it. Handling will be a little worse so don't try anything extravagent and I'd probably avoid the freeway if I could. Springs on an EB, by the way aren't really dangerous to remove or install. Just got to get the frame supported high enough to allow the axle to drop all the way down. Will need to remove shocks and probably brake lines and possibly the track bar and steering linkage depending on the size of springs you have now, but once the axle is hanging on the springs than there is no sprung tension there either. I swapped from stock springs to 3.5 lift in my garage with only common hand tools. Be sure that the shop you are talking to changes out the front C-bushings or you will have to disconnect the springs anyway to change them later (assuming you are changing ride hight)
 

carter2772

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 21, 2008
Messages
1,565
Loc.
Camano Island, Wa
what tn1776 said, it isnt as bad as you think. Also, do the whole kit, get it complete, get it aligned, then drive it. Nothing is worth possible accidents that can be avoided... Especially if you are not familiar with these Eb's..
 
OP
OP
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dixie4x4

New Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2007
Messages
48
Loc.
Mandeville, LA
Great advice, thanks guys...

Assuming the suspension is at full droop, the coils will be sprung, but opposite of when they are on the ground, right? I guess the medium would be easy enough to find.

I am familiar with the truck, have had it 10 years. My dad had the 20 years before that. It has been lifted since the early 1980s. I estimated the current lift at 4 inches. I bought the 4.5 progressive coils, which I figured would drop with the weight of my heavy bumper and winch to 3.5 or 4 inches of lift. Current shocks shouldnt be a problem until I get it all up and running the way I want.


Another question, regarding brake lines, steering link, and track bars, if my current set up is the same in height or close in height to the new one, would I not need to disconnect to install the springs?

I did buy new C bushings but if I dont need to take the traction arm down, I wont change them.
 

TN1776

Bronco Guru
Joined
Oct 24, 2006
Messages
2,632
I didn't realize your new springs were so similar in size to your old springs. It won't be a big deal at all and I'd guess there's enough slack in your brake lines, drive lines, etc to deal with the small amount of lift you're going to realize.

As for your front coils - if you lift the Bronco by the frame until the tires come off the ground, then support the frame and axle at that height, there is no tension on the coils, or very little anyway. You will be amazed at how easy they are to replace this way. As long as there's no weight pushing down on the coils you will be fine. I have had mine in and out half a dozen times this way, its really no big deal.

If you are installing new rear leaf springs, the new springs will be arched quite a bit and require you to stretch them a bit so they'll reach between the hanger and shackle. There are a variety of ways to do this, some safer than others. Mine was probably not the best method but I had no problems - I just don't want to give details and find out somebody else had problems with my method.

Somewhere (probably on this site) I saw instructions how to make a leaf spring stretcher. I would go that route over mine.

I will second what Carter 2772 said though - do it all at once to avoid creating hazards while driving. If your buddy has a shop with a welder and torches, I'd say swap the springs there too, mount the new shock mounts, and find a way to flex it up to measure for proper length shocks.
Good luck.
 
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