RCV Axles

[jvself]

I would like to upgrade my Dana 44 axles to RCV axles. If you have done this how difficult was it? Can the installation of the RCV axles be done without removing the steering knuckle? Is the center opening in the steering knuckle large enough to accommodate the RCV axles? I have 33" tires. I will keep the 33" tires but would like to install an air locker in the Dana 44

 

[sykanr0ng]

Can the installation of the RCV axles be done without removing the steering knuckle?
Is the center opening in the steering knuckle large enough to accommodate the RCV axles?

Do you have Ford disc brakes?
Or drum brakes / Chevy disc brake conversion?
The hole in the Ford disc knuckles is big enough that you don't need to remove the knuckle only the spindle, the drum knuckle hole is smaller.

 

[jvself]

I have Chevy disc brake conversion

 

[jvself]

If the RCV won't work without changing to the Ford disc brake setup what would be the best/strongest axle for an air locker?

 

[bronconut73]

I think it's tough to beat wild horses front axle shafts with Yukon Gold solid U-joints. Bang for the buck is strong with this one.

Haha I just noticed that I put a review on these axles many many years ago it's at the bottom of the page below.

https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/4340ChroMo_axles_Gold_Joints/bronco_axle_shafts_front

 

[bknbronco]

i didnt want to rebuild the RCV's all the time so i just went with some wild horses chromoly axles with spicer joints.
https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/4340ChroMo_axles_Spicer760/bronco_axle_shafts_front

im running 37's with a ARB locker. I also have Heep JK heavy duty HP ring and pinion gears in my axle and a load bolt. I expect these axles to hold up just fine in the bolder fields.

 

[jvself]

Thank you for the input. Sounds like it will be the Wildhorses axles.

 

[DirtDonk]

Thanks for the good words guys. To be clear though, you'll need to remove the knuckles for either style.
Because the Wild Horses axles utilize the larger u-joints, they don't fit through the smaller drum brake hole. Or if they do, it must be a struggle!

Either one is a nice upgrade, but either one requires that little bit of extra work. I would not let it be a deal-breaker though, if you're wanting stronger axles.
Do you need the strength of the RCV's? They are stronger, but most people are satisfied with the standard chrome-moly upgrades.

The biggest benefit of the RCV's though is their strength while turning. You may already know that and it might be why you were going with the RCV. But the chrome moly's will live up to what most of us put our Broncos to.

Good luck. Happy wheelin' too!

Paul

 

[sykanr0ng]

If the RCV won't work without changing to the Ford disc brake setup what would be the best/strongest axle for an air locker?

The RCV axles will work, you just need to take the knuckles off to put them in.

I have never heard of the Wild Horses axles being stronger or more durable than RCV but rather the opposite.

 

[jvself]

Thank you for the input. I guess I need to decide if the RCV axles are worth the extra 900 plus dollars.

 

[bronconut73]

Goodness no.

WH chromoly axles are not as strong as RCV's. They can't be. There is a huge difference in the way a CV axle takes on loads verses a conventional u-joint axle.

But the WH axle kit with the solid Yukon gold joints is the best bang for the buck.
Those u-joints are stronger than the axle and the axle is a lot stronger than a "new" stock axle much less an old axle with many miles on them.

Next step would be ctm joints then RCV's.

But again, bang for buck is uber strong with the WH axle kit. Most of us will never need the strength of the RCV's.

By the way my Yukon gold joints were installed on the axles and they fit through the drum knuckle hole. Tight but it fits. It helps to leave the zerks off until you have the u-joints past the knuckle.

Buying my wild horses axle kit was one of my better decisions for my EB

 

[DirtDonk]

Thanks for the extra info bronconut. I had always thought it was a tight-ish fit in the large disc knuckle and near impossible in the drum knuckle. Good to know it still fits. Leaving the zerks off until done is small potatoes in the scheme of things.

The RCV's have both reports regarding the larger disc spindle hole. Some say they've installed them with the knuckles in place, while most I believe, say that to clear the the red poly boots, they had to remove the knuckles.

Glad you're happy with your axles!

Paul

 

[Doyle]

RCVs with boots on will clear the 78,79 knuckles. That's the only ones I have personal experience with.

 

[nvrstuk]

Just remember if you wheel your Bronco you WILL blow ujoints or axles...even CTM's/Yukon gold whatever... when you do you will be removing the knuckle on the trail to pull the grenaded parts out of the small Chebby knuckle opening...

If you can justify the cost go RCV...you will break the knuckles/ball joints before you break them.

If not, like mentioned several times the best axle/best ujoint combo while carrying spares for both sides is the way to go... just take enough tools to remove the knuckle so you can drive off the trail.

You might not wheel hard core so just go with WH best upgrade below the RCV's... stuff breaks. Grease them EVERYTIME you go wheeling...everytime.

You don't need to be wheel hopping and bouncing 40" tires on rocks to have stuff break, ask me how I know...

 

[sykanr0ng]

RCVs with boots on will clear the 78,79 knuckles. That's the only ones I have personal experience with.

Since those use the same spindles as the other Ford Dana 44 disc brake set-ups but not the same knuckles there may be a difference in the hole size.
Probably fixable with a little time using a die grinder when installing the RCV axles.

 

[sprdv1]

Can't go wrong w/the RCVs...

 

[sprdv1]

Thank you for the input. I guess I need to decide if the RCV axles are worth the extra 900 plus dollars.

They are... specially if you gonna wheel it much

 

[marjama]

I haven't heard of the need to rebuild RCV's all the time - if that was necessary, you'd think there would be a lot more complaints! RCV's use a big CV joint (same thing that is in just about every car on the road today) rather than a u-joint. All of them do well with frequent greasing.

One advantage not mentioned is that RCV's have a greater tolerance for power applied when turned to full lock. This may or man not be an advantage for you, depending on how you use the truck.

I was planning on going with standard axles + strong u-joints. However, when I calculated the cost of axles + high end u-joints, the cost was pretty comparable to the RCV's...minus a lifetime warranty and other advantages.

 

[bknbronco]

I haven't heard of the need to rebuild RCV's all the time - if that was necessary, you'd think there would be a lot more complaints! RCV's use a big CV joint (same thing that is in just about every car on the road today) rather than a u-joint. All of them do well with frequent greasing.

One advantage not mentioned is that RCV's have a greater tolerance for power applied when turned to full lock. This may or man not be an advantage for you, depending on how you use the truck.

I was planning on going with standard axles + strong u-joints. However, when I calculated the cost of axles + high end u-joints, the cost was pretty comparable to the RCV's...minus a lifetime warranty and other advantages.

Thats why all the Heepers dont all have them in there mall crawlers. Because heeps dont have lockouts and the constant turning on the RCV's makes them wear out fast without rebuilding. On a bronco it wouldnt be a issue for most.

You guys must beat the piss out of your broncos.....i been on a few trails and never seen anybody ever break a axle of a ujoint. I seen stock spider gears break before stock shafts or ujoints. But for the cost some chromoly shafts and spicer joints are a great choice. I think the RCV fad fadded 2 years ago.

 

[bronconut73]

http://redirect.viglink.com/?format...www.wildhorses4x4.com/produc...e_shafts_front


$500 Bucks
...

Tough to beat,