Need new radiator, big decision

[fwilder]

Let’s get ready to rumble!!! I’m mean I hope everyone has a happy holidays

Now, Let’s get ready to rumble!!!

My 75’s radiator is giving it up. Need to figure out what my path forward is. Fortunately money is not a huge consideration, but at the same time I don’t need to go overboard.

The truck is a mall crawler at this point. I know, my bad. I’m in So Cal and don’t take it out much in any sort of heat. It has a edelbrock top end and kit with, four barrel Holley and a few other goodies. Pretty healthy but not crazy. It currently has a stock (probably original) radiator.

Now, I’d like a Ron Davis, but think that might be over kill on performance, but would look sweet. So, the question is to fix the old one (not my preference), new three core, four core, three pass or aluminum?

Sorry, I know this is probably preference but I also know some of you are way more knowledgeable than I.

Let me know your thoughts and be safe this Xmas

Fred

 

[nickgp]

I’ve done two rigs w aluminum and one w an original brass radiator. Next rig will be a brass original unit. The aluminum ones are cool(no pun intended) but the brass ones seem to cool just as well and a lot easier to work on. Not to mention, I’ve got five laying around.

 

[DirtDonk]

How did your aluminum radiators fit Nick? Easy with standard off-the-shelf parts, or needing some tweaking for the clamps to fit?

The easy part of your decision Fred is that you already said you don't want to re-use the old one. So at least that narrows the choices down by one!;D
Aluminum is lighter, and that's a thing, but not the main reason for deciding on a radiator. They can be cheaper too. Aluminum can typically cool very well and are priced literally from bargain basement cheap, to premium ultra cool expensive. Copper/Brass is usually somewhere in the middle.

Aluminum as a material is more sensitive to electrical gremlins like electrolysis and/or galvanic reaction/corrosion. Or whatever those demons are called. And that's kind of "a thing" too for me at least.
My personal go-to now is the triple-pass like you mentioned, but in copper/brass instead. I use the one we sell (https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/WH_Staggered_4Core_Radiator_Triple_Flow/Bronco_Radiators) in my '68 and it's almost too good. To the point I'm thinking of obscuring half of it at winter time cooler temps.

Can't say any of them would not do the job for you. The factory one seemed to be alright up to this point? But this is the one I like.

Paul

 

[nickgp]

Paul, mounting clamps were not an issue on either one. However, the 74 had to have the lower tank modified to clear the steering box.

 

[ransil]

go down to the local chain store and buy a stock replacement fir $200
find a 25% coupon

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/carquest-radiator-433521/3902587-P?searchTerm=radiator

 

[elan]

I prefer stock copper/brass on the old stuff. But it proves nothing as my old vehicles have stock cooling radiators and my new Tundra has aluminum. They both work. I'm not sure there is an answer. Since I like old stock vehicles, the factory looking rads are my fav.

 

[blubuckaroo]

I've had a lot of experiences with radiators in my Bronco.
The original started leaking and I had it patched until the radiator shop recommended a new core.
The vendors were pushing their four core radiators at that time so I ordered one. It lasted two years. The vendor replaced it and the second one lasted two years.
Then I took the original back to the radiator shop, where they re-cored it with what they called a staggered tube core. That was the best one.
The fan destroyed that one and now I have an aluminum one from Toms. It's only 2 years old now, so the jury is still out on that one.

In my experience though, with a 302/5.0 motor, cooling with a stock radiator isn't an issue even with A/C and auto tranny.

 

[904Bronco]

I have had the one from my 68 patched twice and it has been in 3 rigs. After the leak came back a 3rd time, I did what I did before: bought the standard replacement from WH's. I run an aluminum shroud and Explorer front dress, cooling has not been a issue and I have done this in 3 rigs.

The 68 is hanging outside now with 2 other Rads that need repair > re-cored or new tanks. I keep thinking that I can still save them...

 

[rguest3]

Brass or Aluminum, the biggest issue is Air Flow.

Go too big of a Radiator and you run out of room to have a Good Fan in front of it.

An original size radiator, Brass or Aluminum (Toms), with a Fan Shroud and a spacer with a Rigid 18" Fan has been the good combo for me down here in HOT, HUMID Florida.

The Best option is install the Explorer Serpentine and 4-Core Radiator with Fan Shroud and Explorer Fan.

FlowKooler Water Pump and 180' Thermostat are part of the equation too.

 

[Lawndart]

I went big (Griffin Al 4-core)... less than a year later, I returned to the OEM radiator. Couldn't be happier and I will not go down that road again.

 

[AZ73]

Aluminum doesn't cool better. It's light weight which is why it's popular. New Copper with the closer fins cool as good if not better than aluminum. Aluminum isn't flexible so it's prone to cracking. And more difficult to repair. Copper can be repaired in the field with a propane torch.

 

[56f100bbw]

In 2005 I bought a Howe new aluminum core 2- 1 inch tubes and had a friend tig weld aluminum tanks have 25,000 miles on it in two different broncos never a leak but I like the looks of a original brass copper radiator

 

[sykanr0ng]

Aluminum doesn't cool better. It's light weigh which is why it's popular. New Copper with the closer fins cool as good if not better than aluminum. Aluminum isn't flexible so it's prone to cracking. And more difficult to repair. Copper can be repaired in the field with a propane torch.

The bigger reason aluminum is so popular with the OEM's is that per pound it costs less than half what copper or brass does, and since a radiator built from it is lighter the money goes even farther.

To the manufacturers a nickel a car is a worthwhile reason to change something.

 

[taipeichris]

Hi,

My turn to chime in...

B.C. Broncos triple pass all the way! (And here's why.)

Aluminum can't easily be repaired on the road. I had old stock copper radiator leak after 10 years on the road. I was 1,500 miles from home on a Sunday afternoon. I found a home depot, removed it, braised it, reinstalled it and got back on the road. Years later that radiator met an untimely fate when my plastic fan shroud got angry one day.

The first 3 replacements after that one all came from the same vendor and LEAKED within months. After the 3rd, the vendor refunded me. I will not name the vendor. It was not a vendor issue and I will not vendor bash. A local radiator shop said the radiator was good but the solder used was sub-par.

Knock on wood, my B.C. radiator has been doing great since February 2013. Not cheap but having a new out of the box leaker sucks.

Good luck with your Bronco and don't forget to flush the heck out of your block and install an inline filter.

Happy Holidays!
Chris


https://bcbroncos.com/shop/cooling/...core-copper-radiator-manual-for-early-bronco/


How to solder copper pipes, copper radiators too.
https://www.homedepot.com/c/ah/how-to-solder-copper-pipes/9ba683603be9fa5395fab90f1ec203f

 

[SteveL]

Aluminum doesn't cool better. It's light weigh which is why it's popular. New Copper with the closer fins cool as good if not better than aluminum. Aluminum isn't flexible so it's prone to cracking. And more difficult to repair. Copper can be repaired in the field with a propane torch.

This^^^^. Also avoid the 4-core swaps. They seem to start springing leaks within a couple years. I've had the best luck with the bc radiators but they're pricey. For you're situation is ould just have yours re-done or get a stock replacement.

 

[bronconut73]

Champion rad on ebay

 

[fwilder]

Wow. Thanks all. I think I’ll just go stock. That is a rarity for me. When something breaks I always upgrade. I guess that is a good lesson. Thanks all merry merry.

 

[mustanggarage]

How did your aluminum radiators fit Nick? Easy with standard off-the-shelf parts, or needing some tweaking for the clamps to fit?

The easy part of your decision Fred is that you already said you don't want to re-use the old one. So at least that narrows the choices down by one!;D
Aluminum is lighter, and that's a thing, but not the main reason for deciding on a radiator. They can be cheaper too. Aluminum can typically cool very well and are priced literally from bargain basement cheap, to premium ultra cool expensive. Copper/Brass is usually somewhere in the middle.

Aluminum as a material is more sensitive to electrical gremlins like electrolysis and/or galvanic reaction/corrosion. Or whatever those demons are called. And that's kind of "a thing" too for me at least.
My personal go-to now is the triple-pass like you mentioned, but in copper/brass instead. I use the one we sell (https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/WH_Staggered_4Core_Radiator_Triple_Flow/Bronco_Radiators) in my '68 and it's almost too good. To the point I'm thinking of obscuring half of it at winter time cooler temps.

Can't say any of them would not do the job for you. The factory one seemed to be alright up to this point? But this is the one I like.

Paul

I almost bought one of those the other day till I realized you don't sell them for serpentine conversion applications. I am still looking to decide what my best option is for my 408 with the explorer serpentine conversion.

 

[DirtDonk]

Not sure if the style with the serp orientation works "better" or not, but mine works out just fine with the Explorer engine and serpentine setup.
I have the lower crossover tube and standard (slightly modified) upper hose and it works slick.

Paul

 

[nvrstuk]

Mustanggarage-

Check out the '79-93 Stang radiators with light modifications fit great...

or

The 351W Ford Granada radiator works great also. That's what I run in my 460 stroker SBF.

Stock, readily available, copper/brass... outlet/inlet in correct locations... can't go wrong...