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Moroso Deep Sump…Oops

ba123

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Cleaning my nice Moroso Deep Sump pan and noticed that the edge is not perfect. I remember the engine hit something pretty hard at one point in storage , I think when I was moving it, and it broke the Mustang Alternator bracket and dented the side of the pan.

I don’t have any desire to fix this unless someone has some easy recommendations on how, and if I don’t, is this worth much to anyone? Darn things are pricey new.

Also noticed that the newer 20511 pans don’t have a hole for one of the bolts like mine does…any idea why?

Pics attached. It’s not a huge gap, but enough to leak if not fixed. You can see the light shining through. Thoughts?
 

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Yeller

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Thats a hard fix. Not impossible but not easy. Even then it would need a rubber gasket with metal inserts for the bolts to tighten up against to help straighten what still may be remaining. Other option is to use the same gasket and assemble with enough gasket maker to seal up but that would be hokey lol.
 
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ba123

ba123

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Making good progress actually. I’m surprised. I am sure my neighbors hate me right now.

Pounding the shit out of it but the gap is down to about 0.025”
 

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ba123

ba123

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I had a great thought….heat. Was gonna torch it but it would look like crap after so I just used a heat gun and did some more and it’s pretty darn good and perfect if there’s any pressure on it. Clamped down overnight and tomorrow I’ll go again.

Should be good to go.
 

pcf_mark

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Great work. Getting the dent out will push the pan rail back to the original location no one cares what the side of the pan looks like just hit with more black paint. Double check you have proper clearance between the pickup and botton of the pan that will kill your engine.
 
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ba123

ba123

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Man, I got the oil pan pretty well done, cleaned it up and sprayed it. Paint looked good but for some reason was just not smooth enough. Area was pretty clean but figured I’d sand with 400 and spray again so did that today and it came out even worse!

I can have that crap.

Annoying. Never had this happen. I think that paint that was on the pan was crap and this new paint isn’t happy with that underneath. I’m going to have to sand and polish at this point but will look better when done than it did before anyway.
 
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ba123

ba123

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I like the look of this pan but how much lift are you running? I would think it would hit the axle when the suspension cycles?
God I hope not! I've got a 3.5" suspension lift and a 1" body lift. That's a lot of money wasted if it doesn't fit, including the expensive moroso deep sump pickup I had to buy to go with the expensive pan. I just did a search and Canton sells a 351W early bronco pan that looks similar: Same 7 qt capacity.
1674674275887.png
 

bigmuddy

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Yeah man that is a healthy price. With the cutout of the rear sump you might get away with it, but I would cycle the suspension after you drop the engine in.
The 3.5" suspension will help the 1" body lift won't do anything obviously for clearance.
 
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ba123

ba123

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I'll check when home in a bit, but prob 10" like this other one.
 
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ba123

ba123

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It’s actually only 9” so if that other one is 10”, I’d bet I’m fine.
 
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ba123

ba123

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Fack…I baked the pan in my home oven this am…wife not happy. This afternoon, I wet sanded it, rubbed it, but those ridges on the pan bottom paint was too thin. Sanded some more, cleaned all up again, sprayed, sprayed, sprayed more patiently…

Looks pretty good now.
 
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ba123

ba123

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I really wish I’d noticed where this front drain plug would be. It was tight and then I moved the engine forward.

That goodness I removed the plug before moving the engine—I had to cut off the end of the magnet and then grind down a bit. It was not easy getting that thing back in, maybe cause I messed up the thread a little and didn’t notice right away but I fixed them and got it in.

Anyone have any thoughts on adding a new drain plug in a better spot without removing the pan? I could pull the engine again and redo it if I had to but thought I’d ask.

IMG_5012.jpeg
 
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ba123

ba123

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Anyone have any thoughts? I mean I can get the drain plug in and out, it’s just really really tight. Two pinkies fit there. 😅

I could prob find something at Home Depot to use to direct the flow of oil away from the frame when I have to remove it and drain. Is it worth the effort to pull it out? That pan is such a pain to take off too…wish I hadn’t used oil pan studs. They make it so much more difficult to get on and off, defeats the purpose.
 
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ba123

ba123

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Did a set of shorty headers in the oven ONCE....and only ONCE......wife was well past pissed. :)

Tim
I did my intake after I did that pan and the wife glared at me and said no way, not again…but I used different paint. VHT this time and it did not smell anywhere nearly as bad. I also didn’t do it as hot though, so that may have helped.
 

DirtDonk

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So is the drain plug up against the front crossmember? Hard to see in the pic, but I assume that's what you're dealing with.
There is probably a 90 degree fitting and drain valve thingy you could use. But seems like it would be even more difficult to install from that position. Once in, it might be just the ticket. But until then...
There are several versions of fancy drain setups available nowadays, but not sure any of them is able to work with tight clearances.

From your description I'd be tempted to save time and frustration and create a new one somewhere else like you were saying. Be easy enough to keep most chips and junk out of the inside, then flush any out that did get passed the initial attempts to keep them outside.
But I'd really hate to end up putting it in the wrong place where it might be up against something important!

It's just the front sump drain you're talking about, correct?

Paul
 
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ba123

ba123

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So is the drain plug up against the front crossmember? Hard to see in the pic, but I assume that's what you're dealing with.
There is probably a 90 degree fitting and drain valve thingy you could use. But seems like it would be even more difficult to install from that position. Once in, it might be just the ticket. But until then...
There are several versions of fancy drain setups available nowadays, but not sure any of them is able to work with tight clearances.

From your description I'd be tempted to save time and frustration and create a new one somewhere else like you were saying. Be easy enough to keep most chips and junk out of the inside, then flush any out that did get passed the initial attempts to keep them outside.
But I'd really hate to end up putting it in the wrong place where it might be up against something important!

It's just the front sump drain you're talking about, correct?

Paul
Yeah, I realize that’s a tough pic to visualize. I’m underneath the Bronco with my legs out the front and yes, a drain plug in the very front of the front sump and behind the front crossmember. And yes, just the front small sump, the large rear sump is clear.

If I could find a super slim 90° fitting that would be great, but I doubt there is one that would fit and it would prob rub the frame and then leak.

Yes, I also had the same thought of doing something while it’s in (it seems you might be saying) of just carefully drilling and then drop some oil or something to get any bits out (I could use a step bit—might be better) but I can’t find a good plug setup that you can do just from the outside of the pan and I don’t want to just use an expander plug.
 
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ba123

ba123

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I decided to take it out again just to see how hard to get back in and it is a royal pain but possible. I also noticed the engine moved again since I don’t have the tranny in and when I messed with it I had enough room for another finger and was much more doable so I’m gonna leave it. Worst case scenario I have to deal with this once per year or maybe a couple times the first year so then whatever.
 
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