Grinding vs. Torching

[redfishtony]

What do yall think? Looking at these welds on the C's and wedges should I try and blow as much of the welds out with the torch or will it damage the tube. I would still have to grind when done but might save a bunch of time. Also welding the tube to cast pieces, any suggestion or just get the cast HOT before welding.

 

[Casey835]

Just grind them doesn’t take that long and less likely to mess up


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[DirtDonk]

What all you planning to do Tony? Why remove the wedges?

Paul

 

[Scoop]

Plasma cutter is more precise.

 

[Broncobowsher]

What parts are you taking off and putting back on?

Normally all anyone needs to do is cut the welds on the outer C's, rotate, weld back in. An angle grinder with a thin wheel is great.

You take about taking the wedges off, and wanting to save the tube. This is sounding like a sketchy plan with a lot of work and probably a negative reward in the end.

 

[jagbucket]

scarfing or air gouging is best but you need practice to do it without damage to your parts plasma machines can air gouge but is not as clean, with my plasma anyway a larger machine will likely work better . If you're not sure stick with the grinder not a torch to much heat

 

[redfishtony]

Grinder it will be.
Paul, I picked up a full width D44 and will attempt to shorten it to the original bronco width. From what information I have so far you have to remove the wedges (which are welded on this axle, 77 F150) and remove the C's then trim tube, replace wedges and rotate and re-weld the C's. I would love to own a plasma cutter but all my spare money goes into this dang truck. Really Id rather have my Bronco than a plasma cutter.

On another note has anyone ever used full width axles on the front and back?

 

[DirtDonk]

Probably 50 (or more) people here using full-width, for every person that shortens one.
Been done many times.

I'm assuming the extra grinding of the wedge removal is because pulling the tubes out of the housing/center section is not an easy task? Take some interesting tools and jigs I suppose, but I'm not sure.

If it's not easy though, then you're heading down the right path.
The only thing I would add though, is that you will also have to grind down the outer end of the tubes in the new position, to re-fit the steering yokes. If I'm not mistaken, the tube end is smaller where the "C" is pressed over it.

I'm sure others know more about that than I do, so will add what they know about fitting the yokes.

Paul

 

[bax]

grinding, grinding, grinding. I told you 3 freekin times.

 

[rjrobin2002]

I saw a while back where a guy just cut a section out of the long side and used this to reconnect the tubes and didnt have to move the Cs or knuckles. Someone smarter than me prolly has details.

https://bcbroncos.com/shop/drivetrain/front-axle/26-41000-w-a-h-eb-for-early-bronco/

 

[Glass Pony]

It all depends how good the torch operator is.
I once watched a millwright burn out a broken off 1" bolt in a blind hole on a turbine diaphragm with an oxy/acetylene torch. He never gouged the threads. I was impressed!