Full width 9 inch build…31 or 35 spline

[INPHOBIC]

If you are spending that kind of money you might as well get a tru high 9".

I run strange "S" case centers on mine. Really pleased with them. They used to run about $230. It's hard to run a stock pinion support in a nice case. So upgrade the bearings and the solid spacer on either set up. and x2 on the axle bearings, what year axle are you working with. If you don't have a later model housing I'd swap that as well.

oh and for the record I have wheeled 31 spline stuff hard and have only twisted splines slightly with up to 38.5x14.50 swampers. and those were factory.

I am in the same boat with my buggy right now. I built a 31 spline ARB for it but really want to swap to full float shafts and Dana 70 outers, Just can't afford the snowball that creates to run 35 spline.

 

[Yeller]

You will never regret going to 35 spline. Ask your self, what will you spend IF you break a 31 spline? With my luck 10x what the upgrade cost. And that applies to any axle, whether its a 9", D60, or whatever you manage to dream up.

I put these on every 9" I build and have not had the ring gear bolts come loose since I started using them, priceless upgrade IMO.http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/axles-tires-wheels/980410-izzy-bridge-locks-your-9-ring-gear-bolts.html

As a side note and I hope i don't create a highjack, if it does my appologies. bigger is not always better, I've had the oportunity to play with 40 spline axles, I can tell you a 9" is not up to that abuse if your playing that hard. A 35 spline axle will deflect (twist) enough to help absorb shock load within the load limits of a 9" ring gear (to a point of course) the deflection load for 40 spline is beyond the working load limits and you start eating ring gears do to the axle not absorbing enough shock load.

And yes i drive like a knuckle draggin gorilla.

 

[JSmall]

For the housing ends, I wouldn't think you'd want to use a small bearing because the 35 spline axles take up more space which means an even smaller bearing for your axleshafts to run on.

I'm not going custom housing. I planned to stick with the full width 1976 9 inch. I believe it has large bearings.

...then what about a hi-9... full float... Anyway, checking cost, the 35 spline ARB, aftermarket housing, shafts, nodular housing, disc brakes, gears, blah, blah, blah, the price topped out at close to 4k with a std 9 inch dropout. A rock jock 60 for an XJ/YJ from currie (60-5/8" WMS) which is a high pinion, 35 spline semifloat with disk brakes and integrated parking brake (like the explorer 9 inch brakes) is mid 3's and made more sense to me, even though the 9 inch is a lot lighter.

A Rock Jock 60 sounds great, but I couldn't find one for much cheaper than $5k with an ARB. Unless I'm forgetting something, I think I can build the axle I have for $3k.

Housing, complete 35 spline third with ARB, 35 spline shafts, back truss, and disk brakes are included in that price. I already have the disk brakes sitting in my garage and the back truss will go great with my Artec top truss.

I ended up buying a dana 60-1SU (full float, smooth pumpkin, disc brakes) out of a 2000 E350 for $300 that I will shorten a few inches, add an ARB and gears for a lot less than any of the above (under 1800 complete) and still has a higher pinion than a std 9 inch. It's just F-eavy!

I haven't started purchasing parts yet. I have the housings, disk brakes and a few other parts, but I'm not opposed to going a different route. My original plan was to overbuild these axles for my intended purpose. I don't feel going with a stronger axle is necessary for my intended use...I think I'm overdoing it as is. Now if I could do it cheaper, I'm willing to switch up my plan. Keeping in mind that I will be building a front to match. Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

[JSmall]

If you are spending that kind of money you might as well get a tru high 9".

I run strange "S" case centers on mine. Really pleased with them. They used to run about $230. It's hard to run a stock pinion support in a nice case. So upgrade the bearings and the solid spacer on either set up. and x2 on the axle bearings, what year axle are you working with. If you don't have a later model housing I'd swap that as well.

oh and for the record I have wheeled 31 spline stuff hard and have only twisted splines slightly with up to 38.5x14.50 swampers. and those were factory.

I am in the same boat with my buggy right now. I built a 31 spline ARB for it but really want to swap to full float shafts and Dana 70 outers, Just can't afford the snowball that creates to run 35 spline.

Here is a build breakdown of the complete 3rd member from Ruffstuff. I believe this has everything that I will need and then some. Please let me know if I'm missing anything. All of this will be going into a 1976 F150 9 inch.

35 spline ARB
Strange Nodular Iron "S" series case
Strange Daytona pinion support
Forged 1350 pinion yoke
Solid pinion spacer
Big bearings
Timken bearings

All of that combined with some 35 spline shafts and I think I will have more than I need. That's what I'm hoping for anyways.

 

[JSmall]

You will never regret going to 35 spline. Ask your self, what will you spend IF you break a 31 spline? With my luck 10x what the upgrade cost. And that applies to any axle, whether its a 9", D60, or whatever you manage to dream up.

I put these on every 9" I build and have not had the ring gear bolts come loose since I started using them, priceless upgrade IMO.http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/axles-tires-wheels/980410-izzy-bridge-locks-your-9-ring-gear-bolts.html

As a side note and I hope i don't create a highjack, if it does my appologies. bigger is not always better, I've had the oportunity to play with 40 spline axles, I can tell you a 9" is not up to that abuse if your playing that hard. A 35 spline axle will deflect (twist) enough to help absorb shock load within the load limits of a 9" ring gear (to a point of course) the deflection load for 40 spline is beyond the working load limits and you start eating ring gears do to the axle not absorbing enough shock load.

And yes i drive like a knuckle draggin gorilla.

Thanks for the suggestion. I will add these to the build list. I really like starting threads like this because I wouldn't have known these existed...Thanks!

**Edit**
Read these won't work with an ARB

 

[Yeller]

Thanks for the suggestion. I will add these to the build list. I really like starting threads like this because I wouldn't have known these existed...Thanks!

**Edit**
Read these won't work with an ARB

Its worth a call to Wayne (Zukizzy), he has been working on a solution for the ARB. If he doesn't have it yet pick up a set of ring gear bolts drilled for safety wire, I've done that too with good results, just takes longer to do correctly and a lot of the diffs I work on have load bolts so the saftey wire is in the way. The bolts coming loose can happen but does seem to be less of an issue in the rear VS a 609 in the front, a front I can promise will come loose.

And yes for your aplication you are over kill but you never have to worry if you get in that spot and need to push harder than you would like you know an axle shaft is not in the need to worry about list.

 

[JSmall]

Its worth a call to Wayne (Zukizzy), he has been working on a solution for the ARB. If he doesn't have it yet pick up a set of ring gear bolts drilled for safety wire, I've done that too with good results, just takes longer to do correctly and a lot of the diffs I work on have load bolts so the saftey wire is in the way. The bolts coming loose can happen but does seem to be less of an issue in the rear VS a 609 in the front, a front I can promise will come loose.

And yes for your aplication you are over kill but you never have to worry if you get in that spot and need to push harder than you would like you know an axle shaft is not in the need to worry about list.

I will give him a call. I don't mind overkill ;D

The True Hi 9 adds about $1k to my overall build.

True Hi 9 w/ 35 spline ARB = $2959
Forged 1350 yoke = $60
Solid spacer = $25

Totaling $3044 vs $2129 for the complete 3rd from Ruffstuff. Will the Hi 9 be worth the extra $1k for my application. I wouldn't think so, but what do I know.

 

[Yeller]

Only advantage for a high9 is pinion angle, driveshaft angle and drive shaft clearance on the trail. In the rear they are not quite as strong as a standard 9.

 

[JSmall]

Only advantage for a high9 is pinion angle, driveshaft angle and drive shaft clearance on the trail. In the rear they are not quite as strong as a standard 9.

I'm not too worried about the pinion angle. I won't have more than 3.5" lift and I'm not sure the extra clearance will be needed in my application.

Any suggestions on shafts? YA F900001-35SP from Yukon is on the list right now. Is there a different brand I should be looking at?

 

[INPHOBIC]

I always seemed to have trouble with my drive shaft falling off. But that is more so because Steve (Yeller) taught me how to drive. The higher pinion keeps the ubolts alive longer for me. That Ruff Stuff 3rd looks good. Are you going to 1350 shafts or staying 1310? I haven't been hearing anything bad about the yukon shafts. I think they are on par for most manufacturer's anymore. Curious to see if someone has a differing opinion. You can only make a flanged shaft so strong.

 

[Yeller]

We ran Yukon flanged axles in the promod crawler for several years with no complaints. We were using 6 lug wheels and would shear the 1/2" wheel studs before the axle would twist. upgraged to 9/16 studs and started to twist the splines 1st but never did break one and the tires stopped falling off. I'd run them without a second thought.

And INPHOBIC is right, I drive like a neaderthal driving a tank.

 

[JSmall]

I always seemed to have trouble with my drive shaft falling off. But that is more so because Steve (Yeller) taught me how to drive. The higher pinion keeps the ubolts alive longer for me. That Ruff Stuff 3rd looks good. Are you going to 1350 shafts or staying 1310? I haven't been hearing anything bad about the yukon shafts. I think they are on par for most manufacturer's anymore. Curious to see if someone has a differing opinion. You can only make a flanged shaft so strong.

You guys drive much harder than I ever will ;D I would like to run 1350 driveshafts if possible. I'm not sure if the D20 can be converted or if I should wait until I can get an Atlas installed.

We ran Yukon flanged axles in the promod crawler for several years with no complaints. We were using 6 lug wheels and would shear the 1/2" wheel studs before the axle would twist. upgraged to 9/16 studs and started to twist the splines 1st but never did break one and the tires stopped falling off. I'd run them without a second thought.

And INPHOBIC is right, I drive like a neaderthal driving a tank.

They will be added to the build list. I would like to watch what it would take to get a wheel to fall off ;D I'm going out to Browns Camp with the Northwest Vintage Bronco club on Saturday. I think this is Robert's first time out with the new build. Can't wait!!!

 

[JSmall]

Here is the list so far...I should be ready to order soon.

Ruffstuff 35 spline ARB 3rd
Yukon 35 spline axles
Ruffstuff rear truss
Spidertrax RD-99 locking collar
Disk brakes- already have everything needed

About $2800

 

[krashnpa]

Jesse Jaynes from high angle driveline can get you a 10 spline 1350 adapter for the D20. It's somewhere around 125 bucks.

 

[JSmall]

Jesse Jaynes from high angle driveline can get you a 10 spline 1350 adapter for the D20. It's somewhere around 125 bucks.

Thanks! I will add that to the list.

 

[76Broncofromhell]

You could build a 5 lug 14 bolt for less than half of that price, and use much stronger shafts that easily available to boot!

http://www.solidaxle.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=11&idproduct=139

 

[JSmall]

You could build a 5 lug 14 bolt for less than half of that price, and use much stronger shafts that easily available to boot!

http://www.solidaxle.com/productcart/pc/viewPrd.asp?idcategory=11&idproduct=139

Thanks for the suggestion and I'm sure to a lot of people reading this, I'm making a mistake by putting money into a 9 inch when one ton axles are stronger and cheaper.

I just don't see the need to go one ton on 37" tires so I have chosen to spend more money upgrading the FW 9. The 14 bolt is easy and cheap, but finding a 60 front isn't as easy and I really don't think they are needed for my driving style, what I have planned for my Bronco and 37" tires.

 

[INPHOBIC]

Just for fun I looked up for comparison 14 bolt numbers;
ARB $1200
Ring and Pinion $300
Bearing Kit $170
5 lug hubs $400
TMR shave kit $150
Gear Install $250
Total $2470
Cheaper but not quite Half of $2800

 

[JSmall]

^^^Beat me to it^^^

I did a quick comparison on a 14 bolt build. I could be off on some of these prices and there could be other ways of accomplishing this, but this is what I came up with quickly.

SRW 14 bolt $200
Shave kit $270
Rear truss combo kit $305
ARB locker $990
Ring & pinion and install kit $400
Disk brake brackers $50
Rotors $70
Calipers $60

Total = $2345

 

[76Broncofromhell]

If you're going to go full widths, you might as well go 1 tons. Shit for that matter you might as well go with 8 lugs.

Not trying to knock what you're doing but I wish I had the "go big or go home" attitude when I started wheeling. I would have saved myself tons of money and effort.

For reference, my wheeler runs a 14bolt/60 combo now after many iterations of other axles.