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Considering going back to the original style rear fender/wheel well on my '68 and am wondering if 33" tires fit those (If they do it would be really great to know what the minimum lift needed is).
maybe with 33 x 9.50 x 15 tire on custom rim. I think it will be squirly at speed. might have to run different offsets between front and rear. just depends if you need large amounts of articulation too.
A 3.5” SL with a 1” or better 2” BL will work fine for pavement driving. Will be good if you like to drive over boulders. If you will be running pizza cutter 33s on stocking rims you should be just fine. I'm going a lil extra by moving my rear axle back 1” too.
Sometimes that last bit is the key. Moving the axle rearward slightly can often save you a little bit of lift height by keeping the leading edge of the tire away from that leading edge of the wheel well opening.
Sometimes that last bit is the key. Moving the axle rearward slightly can often save you a little bit of lift height by keeping the leading edge of the tire away from that leading edge of the wheel well opening.
Probably, but not sure who might have it. Basically though you can usually do it with a new hole drilled forward of the old hole in the spring perch on the axle housing. Drill a matching hole in the top plate so that the u-bolts don't get too skewed and basically you're done.
There are better perch candidates, such as the longer anti-wrap perches like these: https://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Anti-Wrap_Leaf_Spring_Perches/Bronco_Leaf_Springs because they give you more wiggle room with plenty of meat around the new holes. But there are also perches out there that are already drilled for multiple center-pin locations. I think RuffStuff Specialties has some?
But it's pretty easy to at least experiment with the stock ones.
Your wheel backspacing is also very important. I have seen 33's fit with a 2.5” suspension lift and a 1” body lift ( I am a huge fan of the Wildhorses integrated 1” bl). Now, the backspacing will either move the wheel in or out.