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Broken fitting in Explorer Fuel Rail?
- Thread starter gnsteam
- Start date
That’s for the pressure test/release port. Use an ez-out to remove that brass piece and then you should be able to screw a nipple in it for an aftermarket fuel pressure gauge assembly.
Wild horse 75
Sr. Member
What rockinhorse said. It’s 1/16” NPT. There would’ve been a shrader valve in it for pressure testing or connecting an injector cleaning rig.
Yep, I couldn’t remember the thread size as it's been almost 10 years since I did my EFI swap lol.
Wild horse 75
Sr. Member
lol many years of working on 5.0L. I probably have a dozen or so of those valves kicking around in various tools boxes and fitting drawers.
OP
OP
Thanks guys. Next question, can it just be plugged?
Wild horse 75
Sr. Member
Yes sir.
No. You may not plug it.
There is absolutely no reason not to fix it properly. It is a service port, and it is there so that you can conveniently diagnose and troubleshoot your fuel system. Ford calls it a pressure relief valve, but I don't think it works that way.
Any time I see plugged test ports and defeated diagnostic connectors, I immediately assume that the installer is a hack.
Can it be plugged? of course it CAN. Should it be plugged? absolutely not.
You have bleeder ports on your brakes. You CAN plug those too. Or your sewer clean outs. Probably ought to weld those shut.
I might agree with upgrading the schrader valve on the fuel rail with a liquid filled pressure gage. Every time you work on a Ford EFI, the very first thing that goes on is the fuel pressure gage tap. I have cursed FI Tech, and Holley for failing to install a pressure tap on their throttle bodies. I have a special -6AN diagnostic tool to measure fuel pressure real time. Why in the world would you defeat yours?
Ford Motor Company, E0AY-9H321-A Valve Assembly, Pressure Relief. Ebay $13.00
Motorcraft CM3461, Valve. available at amazon for $9.81.
It even comes with the special little cap.
Please fix it correctly.
OP
OP
Thanks jamesroney, for the great feedback. I will look into fixing it, as it should be. I am a total novice with this engine swap and I will need all the good advice I can get.
Fred
OP
OP
Any recommendations for a fuel rail pressure gauge?
Depends on your build. If you have an external, frame mount fuel pump, or if you have a high performance in tank pump...but you have poor wiring skills, then you want to buy a gauge that will stay permanent in the rail. That means that you want it to be absolutely dead simple, and super reliable. Choose a manufacturer and a supplier that can afford to buy you a new Bronco when the gauge fails, and sets your Bronco on fire.
If you have an otherwise reliable installation, and you are not producing more than 300 HP, and you do not have an oversized 255LPH fuel pump, and you did not use the non-submersible EFI rubber hose in your fuel tank...then buy the $26 Harbor Freight gauge with the detachable Schrader connection and put a long enough hose on it so that you can read it while driving.
It's important to remember that the Ford fuel pressure port is 1/16 NPT. I have yet to see a 1/16 NPT native fuel pressure gauge. Almost all of them are 1/8NPT male, and then adapts down to 1/16. So it's another connection, and another possible place to break off. It's not that there's a high likelihood of failure. It's that it's really bad when it fails. Pretty sure you've seen that fitting break off already.
No shortage of burned out Fuel Injected Minivans on the side of the road in the 90's. Don't want to be part of that statistic.
I bought an adaptor and a SS braided line and run it to a gauge that I had installed in the back of my cowl hood. No chance of fuel in the cab if its leaks and I could see if from the driver seat. Unfortunately, that setup isn't going to work with my newly acquired lighting intake. Well actually it might but I need to find a 90 deg fitting to come off the rail to attach the SS braided line too, hmmm..
OP
OP
Thanks all, great information. I will look for one to hook up to the schrader valve for diagnosis purposes only and not a permanently mounted guage.
ssray
Full Member
May not be ideal trouble shooting but I have an older GM PU that has the schrader valve on the right front. Was having trouble with it once and not having a test gauge I did a quick check with a rag around it and depressed the valve stem to see if there was pressure in the line. Cold engine and I just turned the key on for a few seconds, back off and then checked for pressure. It did have pressure so I knew the pump had some life at least. If the system wasn’t holding pressure this check likely wouldn’t be valid. I’m pretty paranoid around gasoline and personally wouldn’t do this leaving the key on. At the pressures these engines run at I wouldn’t want to risk spraying fuel around or at me!!!
OP
OP
When working with fuel around a potentially hot engine. A little paranoia can be your friend. Safety first and always.
I was going to make a smart aleck comment about your fuel pressure gauge being pointed in a direction that is impossible to see from the driver's seat. Then I was going to recommend that you staple a mirror to the hood aimed at the driver so that you can actually read it. But then I started counting head bolts, and realized that I need to shut up.
When I read "239 Ford" I thought...well, I suppose it would be OK to put a 302 crank in a .060 over 221 Small Block. Somehow I missed the 8BA part. I can only admire this picture. NICE.
Now please go buy some 5/16 x 1 inch Grade 8 hex head cap screws. Cross drill the head for a safety wire. Replace that socket head set screw in your steering column with a safety wired bolt. Then I will be happy. (and you ought to know better.) The CpK for heat treatment of a socket head set screw is really poor. They suffer from differential heat transfer, and are all over the map. From dead soft to brittle. I had one fail from Borgeson. Crumbled, fell out, and the shaft fell off the splines at 35 MPH in the middle of Johnson Valley. It takes a while to figure out what's going on when the steering wheel just spins. Turns out that you STILL try to correct for directional control even when you know it's not connected to anything. If it had happened anywhere else, it would have been really bad. So "belt and suspenders" for me from now on.
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2004
- Messages
- 11,861
Interesting observation. I've run the same Borgeson in quite a few of my rigs and still here to post about it....but its certainly not a difficult upgrade. I'm sure I have 5/16 Gr8 cap screws in stock...
- Joined
- Jun 11, 2004
- Messages
- 11,861
It is a bit different, I'll admit. But then, so am I..... An earlier pic before I tidied things up a bit.
ssray
Full Member
Boy, that rings true. I had a single axle Brigidere with 750 bushels of corn on the trailer and had just turned into the Coop pulling up behind another truck. Stepped on the clutch to coast up behind him. Slammed to the floor. Took me a couple seconds to process what was going on. First reaction was brake and the truck wasn’t completely stopping due to torque and weight. Got the key turned off before I got too close but I sure realized I reacted poorly at first. It had a clutch cable and that just exploded in front of the firewall. I could see it had gotten water inside as the outer sheath steel strands were rusty. Not sure how. As in your case it happened when speed was low but wouldn’t ever be as bad as loosing steering.
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