Another... Gear/Axle Question

[WSM29]

I have searched and searched... then pondered a bit and searched some more. I kinda want to see whats new and then just personalize the question a bit.

Here is the setup.

1976- 5.0 EFI, NV3550 and Dana 20. Running 33's with option to go 35s later.

Front end is stock dana 44 and rear is stock 9 inch. Both open 3.50

I am pretty set on getting 4.88 gears due to wanting to go 35s later if they will fit and having the OD in the NV3550.

What I don't know is what I need to do with the axles and locking components. I am 80% on road and 20% trail rig. It won't see a mud pit, but I don't want it to struggle too bad on a medium trail.

I know a lot of guys like the ARBs, I do to... I just don't see them in the budget right now. So do I run something like a tru-trac in both front and rear or a tru-trac in the rear and locker the front? I know I don't want to have it fully locked all the time in the rear for daily driving purposes. I have read having the front fully locked is bad on ice and snow as well. So there is the dilemma. What other options are out there?

Also- Do I need to upgrade axle shafts in both front and rear?

I am pretty confident on doing the rear swap by myself, as I can buy a 3rd member with gearing and locker of choice. Everything should be pretty much bolt on. So if I change the gearing in the rear, is it safe to drive without the front drive shaft to a shop to have them do the front?

What is an average cost for a gear swap on a dana 44?


Thanks for taking the time to read! Down to 6 weeks left on this deployment... Cant wait to get back and get to wrenching on it again!

 

[Timmy390]

I am pretty set on getting 4.88 gears due to wanting to go 35s later if they will fit and having the OD in the NV3550.

What size lift do you have? Cut or uncut? Fitment will depend on that.

What I don't know is what I need to do with the axles and locking components. I am 80% on road and 20% trail rig. It won't see a mud pit, but I don't want it to struggle too bad on a medium trail.

I know a lot of guys like the ARBs, I do to... I just don't see them in the budget right now. So do I run something like a tru-trac in both front and rear or a tru-trac in the rear and locker the front? I know I don't want to have it fully locked all the time in the rear for daily driving purposes. I have read having the front fully locked is bad on ice and snow as well. So there is the dilemma. What other options are out there? .

Lockers are nice but $$$ is always a factor. With 80% on the road, I would go with T-locs front and rear. That's what I'm running now.

Also- Do I need to upgrade axle shafts in both front and rear? .

With 33's I wouldn't but with 35's I would.

I am pretty confident on doing the rear swap by myself, as I can buy a 3rd member with gearing and locker of choice. Everything should be pretty much bolt on. So if I change the gearing in the rear, is it safe to drive without the front drive shaft to a shop to have them do the front?

Rebuild the rear you have now adding new gears and a 4 pin T-loc. Ebay is your friend. A fully loaded third member with a T-loc will run you $1000 where as you can rebuild for half that adding the T-loc.

What is an average cost for a gear swap on a dana 44?

I got quoted $600 labor plus parts so call it $1000. Did it myself for the price of parts and a few tools.

So if I change the gearing in the rear, is it safe to drive without the front drive shaft to a shop to have them do the front?

Yes. You don't have to drop the shaft just don't put it into 4 wheel drive but yes, dropping the shaft is the safest thing.


Back to gear selection, the 9 is so easy to change I suggest running multiple ratios before changing the front. Gears are cheap off Ebay (paid $112 for my 4.11's shipped) and you can sell the used ones and get 90% of your money back. I wish I had done this as I truly think I would have gone with 4.30's over the 4.11's but now I'll never know.....

Tim

 

[DirtDonk]

Front end is stock dana 44 and rear is stock 9 inch. Both open 3.50
I am pretty set on getting 4.88 gears due to wanting to go 35s later if they will fit and having the OD in the NV3550.

With the front you obviously have to get a "4-series" carrier, but since you're wanting to upgrade to a limited slip or locker anyway, that's a no-brainer. Just make sure that whatever you get for the front is for the lower 4.+ gears.

What I don't know is what I need to do with the axles and locking components. I am 80% on road and 20% trail rig. It won't see a mud pit, but I don't want it to struggle too bad on a medium trail.

If you're even 20% off the road, you're putting in way more than most. Is that accurate, or is off-roading more of a very occasional thing?
For the rear, you might as well upgrade to the 31 spline axles, assuming you even have a choice. Many rear diffs won't even offer you the 28 spline option anymore, due to being inherently weaker with a true lockers or spools or with larger tires.
With your possible 35's later, and still undecided as to the diff, just get the 31 spline axles and don't even bother thinking about 28's. It'll simplify your life, give you more reliability, and they're just not that expensive (in the scheme of things) anymore.

Axles for the front are nice, but you can save some money by keeping your stock ones for not. Granted, they're not too expensive either, and the larger u-joints associated with the upgrade axles is something to consider. But unlike the rears, they can be done at any time, before or after the diff swap.

So do I run something like a tru-trac in both front and rear?

That would be my choice. Both ends.
But the new Yukon Zip Locker (I think that's the one) is an air-operated selectable diff that's a little less expensive than an ARB. Probably worth at least looking in to.

Also- Do I need to upgrade axle shafts in both front and rear?

At least the rear. See above discussion.

So if I change the gearing in the rear, is it safe to drive without the front drive shaft to a shop to have them do the front?

Certainly. It's the same as driving in 2wd like you always do. It's only when you're trying to run on both (4wd with the hubs locked) that you have trouble.

What is an average cost for a gear swap on a dana 44?

Hard to say. Varies by region and type of shop you take it to, but for a standard limited slip and gear swap, with all new bearings and seals and such, expect to pay at least $600 in parts (if new) and at least $300 in labor for the 9" if you carry it in. But it's not unheard of to be upwards of $1500 either. Driving the vehicle in costs more than carrying the diffs in. A front will cost more unless you tear it down to just the center, removing everything from the axle shafts outward.

For an air locking diff? I'd say that these days it's a minimum of $1500 per end, but as much as $2000. Maybe more?
Been awhile since I've priced all that stuff out regularly, or even checked with other local shops, so just use those numbers and add them to whatever other people here say and then average it out in your mind.
Obviously, finding good new/used stuff on Craigslist or eBay will save some money, and having your cousin's sister-in-law do the labor can save too, but take it to any normal shop and those prices above are likely pretty close.

Paul

 

[surfer-b]

So do I run something like a tru-trac in both front and rear or a tru-trac in the rear and locker the front?

I have this combo and it works great, never have had a prob out of either.

Also- Do I need to upgrade axle shafts in both front and rear?

Iwould go to 31's on the rear, as for the front you can wait if need to and upgrade later to a set of these http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/4340ChroMo_axles_Spicer760

So if I change the gearing in the rear, is it safe to drive without the front drive shaft to a shop to have them do the front?

You don't even have to remove the driveshaft unless you just want to, just keep it in 2H



******others already answered your Q's

 

[needabronco]

I run 31 spline axles and a Detroit locker with 4.88's an AOD and 35's and drive mine all over the place with no issues. Personally I'd go this route and leave the front open. Later down the road you can always add a front locker as your budget or need arises.

 

[Broncobowsher]

31Spline upgrade the rear, be done with it.
The front, run the stock shafts now. Expect the U-joint to fail sometime in the future (probably in a tight turn) and upgrade at that time. Since there is no spline change for the front the same diff can be used. Not having to redo work and have expensive left over parts.

 

[WSM29]

Wow, Thanks for all the updates and information! I think all the bases were covered! I am going to look into those Zip Lockers Dirt Donk. If not, it looks like Tru-Trac is the way to go with some 31 spline axles. Dirt, I wasn't tracking on the "4 series carrier" so thanks for the heads up. I'll have to look into that a bit more.

I am only a few hours from Uwharrie National Forest, I make the trip with my buddies about once a month. But I always just rode in one of their J$$PS as I wasn't done with the Bronco at the time. Helped a lot to learn about trail riding as well. So I think 20% off road is about right. I have a 3.5" suspension with a 1" WH Bodylift. Rear is cut. I am running 33's, but I have some minor rubbing. After some comments from a few pictures I posted before my Rig left the house a few months ago for body and paint work, I guess my fender flares are put on wrong. Hoping the new ones I am having installed are going to give me the room to run 35s.

Thanks again! Ya'll are great as usual.

 

[WSM29]

Surfer B, Are you running two Tru Tracs or a Tru Trac and a Locker up front? Thanks.