351W Build Advice

[kiteoregon]

Just dropped my 351W of for a more or less stock rebuild, i will get the motor back short of the oil pan, timing cover and intake. The builder asked if i had a new pan or was going to use this pan, this 351W is out of a 94 Full Size (flat-tappet), AOD transmission, will there be a clearance issue with the stock pan? Also, since this was an EFI motor and i am going carburated with a carter mechanical fuel pump, do i need the older style cover, i would assume not? Also does anybody know a good place to get a stainless bolt kit for all the accessories, covers, etc, mine are a rusty mess.

Seems like somewhere on a build thread i saw that somebody was using a lower profile water pump on the 351 for better clearance, anybody know what that comes off of or a part number for it?

Thanks.
KO.

 

[bad 68]

Oil pan needs to be a dual sump pan that fits a Fox body mustang. Water pump should be off of a early 70s car so it has the passanger side inlet. The cam that came stock in that motor will be a poor choice for a carbed 351. There will be no Mechanical fuel pump eccentic on that cam or anyway to mount it to that timing cover so I would just go electric fuel pump. Summit Racing has engine bolt kits from ARP that are very reasonably priced.

 

[Edger6]

Im doing the same thing. Just got my intake off my 91 351. May pull the heads tommorw. Trying to find a cam also that will work well for a carbed 351. guess I need to look for a fox body pan.

 

[Desert Dweller]

Oil pan from a van or pickup will work also.... Wasn't aware Fox body Mustangs came with a 351W.

 

[JWMcCrary]

Oil pan from a van or pickup will work also.... Wasn't aware Fox body Mustangs came with a 351W.

I don't think they did, but Ford racing certainly makes a pan for 351w in a fox body mustang, thats what was on the box for the one I am using

 

[Doyle]

My 351W cam from a 92 E350 van. Summit had the best price on the pan when I did mine, it is the 351w into a Fox chassis. I used the fuel pump eccentric, front cover, and dress off my 302, along with the headers and exhaust system. Added a Flowcooler water pump, Stealth intake, and a moded 600 Holley. Working well so far, little over 5500 miles on conversion. Much more low end. Have fun.

 

[regshawn]

I don't think they did, but Ford racing certainly makes a pan for 351w in a fox body mustang, thats what was on the box for the one I am using

Those are retrofit pans and brand new from JEGS or Summit they are $129.00 shipped. They come with dipstick tube, dipstick, oil pick-up and the main bolt/stud. this is the way I went, as the Vendors want $180.00 + for the same kit!

 

[Broncobowsher]

The typical 80's pickup oil pan is a rear sump that works, but you need a little clearance dent to clear the front diff. Take the bump stop off, bottom it, put the bump stops back on and all is good. Canton also makes a Bronco specific oil pans, they have the corner of the pan clipped to clear the diff.

As for the short waterpump, The explorer front accessory drive is the best way of pulling that off. That is the front accessory drive from the timing cover forward off a '96 to '01 5.0 V8 Explorer. There is a catch to it, the Explorer crank damper (which is what you need with the Explorer drive to work) has the wrong balance for the 351. So you need to get it converted to the new balance for it to work.

 

[kiteoregon]

Edger6; what are you thinking for a cam? regshawn, i know you told me, but what cam did you put in yours?

 

[Amac70]

is your block a f4te block or an earlier one being a 94 it should be and if it is i would upgrade to roller cam. what heads are you using? as for a bolt kit i got my last one from http://alloyboltz.com everything was individually labled and packaged for all the different components. was a good and complete kit.

 

[wildbill]

;D;D;D If you have a 2" lift or more you can use the truck pan. On mine I used the timming cover and pullies and all that stuf. from the 289. I would suggest a good RV typ cam and you will need to put a fuel pump cam on it. Good luck and have fun with it. Bill ;D

 

[Broncobowsher]

;D;D;D If you have a 2" lift or more you can use the truck pan. On mine I used the timming cover and pullies and all that stuf. from the 289. I would suggest a good RV typ cam and you will need to put a fuel pump cam on it. Good luck and have fun with it. Bill ;D

Strange, I didn't need a lift to use the truck pan. Ran mine for some time without a lift at all. Unless you change bumpstops a lift will make no difference to the axle up travel, where it puts the little clearance dent in the pan.

 

[regshawn]

Edger6; what are you thinking for a cam? regshawn, i know you told me, but what cam did you put in yours?

I'm sure you could classify mine as an "RV" cam; I wanted something with a little more bottom end torque since I'm not pre-running it across the desert. Also my block is an earlier one - 69-74.

 

[kiteoregon]

I have a 3.5" lift and a 1" body lift. As far as the stock cam that is in the flat tappet, why would it cause any issue going from EFI to carb? I do not plan on going with a roller set-up, for the added 400 or 500 it really does not bring much to the table for my application. The way i see it, the only real issue with the flat tappet is that i will need to use special oil that is designed for that type of motor. For me this is more or less a daily driver with the weekend trip off road, so the marginal power that the roller provides really is no benefit to me. I planned on using all of the pullies and accessories that i got with the motor, anybody see a problem with that?

I was going to use the stock heads that were on the motor.

 

[bigmuddy]

Someone correct me, but I beleive all 5.8 blocks after 90-91 were roller cams, with the exception of the lightening motors?

 

[barronj]

I was watching a Hot Rod TV episode a few months back, and they were seeing how much they could wring out of a stock 302 (stock heads, 4bbl intake, stock cam) They started with a base line somewhere around 200-220, changed intakes, saw it go up, intakes again (much larger) saw it drop a bit. Changed cams to something moderately hot & saw it go substantially higher... all while using solid lifters & matching cam. You can do just fine with a solid lift/flat tappet.

Someone correct me, but I beleive all 5.8 blocks after 90-91 were roller cams, with the exception of the lightening motors?

F4TE blocks can use either style cam. If it has the bosses in the lifter valley for the spider (holds down the x's or "dog bones" that keep the roller lifters in alignment) then you can run a roller cam, if you choose to.

 

[Broncobowsher]

Someone correct me, but I beleive all 5.8 blocks after 90-91 were roller cams, with the exception of the lightening motors?

OK, I will
'94 and newer are roller block.

the '90~'91 is about when the 302 (non-HO) went roller cam in everything, although all '85 and up 302 blocks are roller block. Only the HO got the roller cam starting in '85. took a few more years to phase out the flat tappet cams and make all the 302 engine options (non-HO car, truck) roller cam.

A roller cam block is backwards compatable with flat tappet cams. A roller block is the most versitil as it can run either cam. Early blocks are limited to flat tappet or retrofit kits.

 

[KyleQ]

F4TE block, go on Corral or a local drag board and score yourself some $800-1000 AFR's or Trick Flows, find yourself a medium sized roller cam, keep the CR under 10.5:1 and hold on!

 

[barronj]

F4TE block, go on Corral or a local drag board and score yourself some $800-1000 AFR's or Trick Flows, find yourself a medium sized roller cam, keep the CR under 10.5:1 and hold on!

That's exactly what I did...

I'm surprised they haven't urged you to do a 408 stroker yet!

And then when I found another F4TE shortblock on CL for $75 (after negotiations), I bought that for a stroker project at some future point

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I love these "simple rebuild" threads ! I'm surprised they haven't urged you to do a 408 stroker yet! Not to mention dropping a G for heads and and half G for a roller cam conversion.

Just to be clear , a hydro-roller cam does not mean it has to change the rpm range the motor makes power , but I believe that they can make more power , due to the more agressive ramp rates that are possible. Probably not a significant amount though. The valves are not open any longer (duration) but they can open farther and faster than a flat tappet cam.

Going roller will also mean you don't need to worry about todays no-zinc oils destroying your camshaft. Once the flat tappet is broke in , it should be good to go. It's the break in that will be nerve racking.


I'm not sure if I'd do all stainless bolts or not on a motor , they tend to gall on the threads and lock themselves in position , no removing them until they shear off. Then you are left with the wonderful mess of removing a stainless bolt from the motor.
We have to use stainless hardware at work from time to time , we have found that a tiny amount of Kopr-Kote keeps the threads from galling most of the time. Of course , Kopr-kote is a kickass lubricant , so I'm not sure how that set up would work on a motor , the vibrations may cause them to loosen up.
I'm sure others have used them , so hopefully they will chime in with no problems from using them.