I want to just buy the upper draglink rod end but the length of it seems much shorter than the current styles that are offered. Am I off? Or is there an option I'm missing?
Too hard to say at this point. With so many potential rod ends out there, added to the possibility that the PO actually cut down and threaded the original upper end, it could be just about anything.
In other words, it could be off the shelf, or it could be totally custom. You'll have to measure the threads to know.
And you might even have to measure the taper to make sure the old pitman arm wasn't reamed out to fit an existing part.
Could be anything at this point.
You've got me thinking I'm missing something with the measuring. I have centered the box and a non-indexed pitman arm. I have simply shifted the pitman over to meet the previous setting where the wheels point straight.
That's ok to do as long as you don't go more than 10 degrees or so. No hard and fast rules for this that I know of. Just can't go too far with one piece, to compensate for another.
I have some custom welding done where the box mounts directly to the frame, but you're right. I will need the pitman parallel with the length of the truck or it will be wonky when going hard left or right. Correct?
Maybe. Or maybe not...
Even Ford used the offset arm in the early years and didn't have any issues turning left or right. That's where I get my 10° number from. The factory had the pitman arms offset 10 degrees to the driver's side with no ill effects.
If so, then I need to get a correct length draglink.
Set this up in your mind as a whole "system" and you won't go wrong.
That does not necessarily mean you have to go out and automatically buy more new parts (though you might!) but need to see what parts go where and why.
And which ones are going to cause you trouble.
If the old system was sized correctly, and used a dropped pitman arm that simply had a smaller hole, then start there.
You can fit your old pitman arm to the new box you know, correct? If so, and it's a dropped pitman arm of the proper length, just re-use the old arm.
The new arm should put things in the same orientation length, so your existing draglink should still work if you can get the proper tapered shim.
So let's start at the arms. Do you really need the new arm? An old arm that fit an old Ford steering box will still fit the new Ford box. If that solves your issue, great.
If not, then you can order a dropped arm with the proper smaller tapered hole for a '77 Bronco. Not exactly the same as an early '66 if I remember, but it's close.
If you prefer to match the rod end to the new pitman arm, that's fine too, but a lot more work unless you just guess and buy a new one.
To me, yours looks like either a modified '77 from a "Y-link" or one of the common GM tie-rod ends used for the "1-ton" upgrades.
Look around here for the three part numbers, take them down to the local parts store and compare them to yours.
Maybe even check out Ruff Stuff's "Y-link" (I think they call it) conversion kits to see if they list the manufacturer's part numbers and see if their pics look close to yours.
When you mention you've tried the different sleeves in different positions, what applications are you referring to?
We have two sleeves, part numbers 2382 and 2388 for non-stock applications, and I meant that I've sat there at my desk with those to parts and tried them in knuckles, pitman arms and have tried to insert different rod-ends into them.
What I don't have is my notes from those tests! So I can't claim to know for sure that one or the other, when inserted into your pitman arm, will fill the gap properly for your new arm to fit your old rod end.
Does welding the track bar drop make that much difference or is it just a more is better theory?
Both.
It is not only a safety factory, but it absolutely makes a difference in how your Bronco will track on the road. Period.
Now, admittedly that was with only one Bronco being driven by myself, more than 30 years ago. But it was such a notable difference that I always tell people do to it.
Besides, it's in the instructions of just about everybody's trackbar drop. They all say (or should all say) to weld the bracket to the frame.
You can bolt it and safely drive it to get it welded, but not doing so will simply not give you the full benefit.
When I did mine it didn't have instructions and I tried to bolt it and go. Drove it that way for about a month (maybe less) but knew right away that something was not right.
I could feel the slight wandering that felt the same exactly as a worn out trackbar bushing. Which I had experienced many times over the years, so knew what that felt like.
Being so tightly bolted to the frame I couldn't imagine how that would have such an effect, but I tested the theory anyway. Even by then I was a big adherent to the test that I've been shouting about as long as I've been in the business. And then after that, when the internet became a thing too. And that's the test with a helper sawing the steering wheel back and forth.
Had one of the mechanics at my shop turn the wheel while I watched the bracket and could not believe how much movement there was. Had them weld it the same day and could tell the difference immediately. Even on normal city streets it was tighter feeling.
So yeah, I'm on the "weld it and forget it" side of the fence. Always.
Paul
