WH Adjustable Drag Link- Options for Early ‘66 Pitman Arm?

[bfoldy]

I’ve been working on installing the WH 3 way adjustable tie rod and drag link system. So far everything has gone well until the last step of installing the drag link to the stock early ‘66 manual steering pitman arm.

Issue: The ball joint stud on the new WH drag link that goes in to the pitman arm is a larger diameter than the original. My assumption is that the early ‘66s have a smaller hole than other years?

Any recommendations on best option to take here here?
1) Get a new pitman arm? Would 1967 work?
2) Ream the hole on the original early ‘66 pitman arm to accept the new larger ball joint supplied with the WH drag link? (I have no experience doing this)
3) Install a new ball joint to the end of the new drag link that fits the original pitman arm hole? If so, does anyone know specs on which one to order?

Thanks guys!!



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[DirtDonk]

Correct. Sorry you're running into the problem that only a few lucky people have, but that's exactly what the deal is.

New pitman arm. Stock or dropped? Yes, any later-66 through 75 arm will work.

Check in the morning to see if the upper end we sell for the '76 and '77 pitman arms will work with the early 66 arm. They are also smaller tapered holes, so might be the ticket.
For some reason I seem to remember being told that was not a solution, but don't remember why that would be.

Yes, ream the hole, if there is enough meat around it. The later arms had small ends, not conducive to large holes, but the '66 might be different. Got pics and a part number by any chance?

If you want I can check too, but I won't be there in the morning so may not get an answer as quickly as you can by just calling.

Good luck.

Paul

 

[bfoldy]

Thanks for replying, Paul

Stock pitman arm part # is CT6A-3590-H

It looks like the opening on the pitman arm to accept the ball joint stud is approximately .600” and slightly larger on the bottom side of the hole.

-Measurements for the ball joint on the stock drag link are .600” at the beginning of where the stud starts to taper then up to .678” at the thick part of the stud.
-The new ball joint on the WH drag link begins with .650” progressing up to .763”. Pretty big difference.

Easiest solution would be if the link ends you guys carry for the ‘76-‘77s will work so hopefully the measurements given should help to verify this.

If it comes down to reaming the hole on the pitman arm to enlarge it some, is there much science to this? That’s a new one for me so I really don’t know much about what’s involved here. My understanding is there’s some sort of tapered tool that you twist in there and guess it involves taking several progressive attempts and test fitting the ball joint several times until there’s enough room to accept it?

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[DirtDonk]

Correct. Called a tapered reamer, they're very nice tools and can either be hand-tool type with a T-handle or a shank type for use in a drill.
Because they're based on angle, rather than a specific size, they are often larger than your hole needs to be at the big end, so if you go too far you're toast with a too-big hole.
Easy enough to check every few seconds though, just to make sure. Even to using tape wrapped around the reamer at a point near the size you need, as a "story-line" on where to stop for the next check.

It's very possible that the late model upper draglink end won't work simply because it's too long, or the wrong thread pitch, or whatever. Might not have anything to do with the tapered end and be all about the dimensions of the shank.
Obviously would not work if the early is 6" long and the late is 10" long! But perhaps a swap of the entire draglink? Not sure. Still comes back to the tapered end being compatible.

Then again, buying a new or used stock later model pitman arm isn't the end of the world either. Might even be less expensive than some reamers!
Then you could sell your '66 model to someone doing a restoration and come out even.

Here's crossing fingers for a happy solution in either direction.

Paul

 

[66broncoCT]

I had the same problem when I went to the 3 way adjustable setup from Bronco Graveyard. Ended up just putting on a pitman arm from a 67-74 instead of trying to ream my original. Then when I did the lift I needed a drop one anyway.

 

[bfoldy]

Ok, I have a new drag link end on the way. I called this morning and Johnny seemed to think the one used for the ‘76-‘77 will work on the ‘66 pitman arm. Guess we’ll find out for sure tomorrow when it arrives.


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[DirtDonk]

Can't wait for the update!
From the real world that is...

Paul

 

[bfoldy]

Received everything today, and to confirm...the 76-77 adjustable drag link will work for the stock early ‘66 pitman arm.

You need all 3 pieces of the 76-77 adjustable drag link to make it work however. Initially, we tried just the end that goes to the pitman arm, but it’s several inches shorter (8 3/4” vs 15” for 67-75) and will not work unless you also use the long end of the drag link and adjusting sleeve for 76-77.

Hope this helps those who are looking for answers in the future.

The guys at Wild Horses are awesome, by the way!


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[DirtDonk]

Great news! Thanks.
And good news you got it to work too!;D

So is it all together and driving yet? Common' man, daylight's a wastin'!

Paul

 

[bfoldy]

Great news! Thanks.
And good news you got it to work too!;D

So is it all together and driving yet? Common' man, daylight's a wastin'!

Paul

Haha. Now that I know everything fits, I decided to paint all the parts before I put it all back together and go for a drive. Waiting for the paint to fully dry.

And of course, during the downtime, I decided to continue riding the wave of motivation and tackled the rear end with new spring bushings, u-bolts and of course, new bilstein shocks so with any luck, it will drive like a tight, new truck on Easter Sunday.


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[DirtDonk]

Since it's just paint, did you go ahead and paint all the threads as well? If not, might as well.
When it's powder coating time, you have to keep that stuff away from threads. But with spray paint, coating the threads is good practice to keep the threads clean and rust free for a long time.
As long as you don't just slather it on that is.

Paul