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TBP 11 leaf pack rear "stink bug" stance

Rusted1

Full Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2002
Messages
290
I finally put together my son's 73 and installed TBP 3.5in suspension lift with 11 pack rear leafs. I realize the rear end sits up a little higher than the front to compensate for a hard top and spare tire. My question is, is it a bad idea to remove a couple of the smaller leafs to level out the stance, or will this complicate ride comfort and handling?
 

DirtDonk

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Nov 3, 2003
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47,737
They'd know for sure, but generally speaking, and with our WH springs specifically, it doesn't hurt a thing to remove a limited number of leaves to fine-tune your ride height.

Usually the bottom two or three will only net you a drop consistent with the thickness of the leaves themselves. So if you remove the bottom leaf, and it's 1/4" thick, that's about all the drop you get. Removing two would net you 1/2" or so and will not effect the ride or load capability "much" at all.

The biggest drop-for-your-buck usually is the third leaf down. It's the first long leaf that is not one of the "main" leaves that are part of either the eyes or double-wrapped front eye.
Removing that leaf will often net you up to 1.5" or so. It will vary per vehicle, but is in that range. It will also have the biggest effect on ride and load capacity, but should not compromise safety or longevity that much. The good part is that, for the street at least, the ride might even improve a little. You just have to watch out if you're prone to loading up with a weeks worth of camping gear for a three day outing. ;D
Street handling (cornering) could be compromised slightly too, but if you're not slaloming in the thing, and your son uses the common sense that you taught him (that Broncos are not sports cars!) everything should be hunky dory.

Measure twice then. Maybe even have someone jack up the front while you're viewing the truck from the side to see where YOU like the stance, then measure the amount of difference.
And yes, keep the leaves in a dark corner of the garage where they won't be in the way, but will come in handy down the road when you either add some weight to the truck, or they sag naturally over time and use.

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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Oh, before you do any of that, make sure you followed these procedures when you installed the packs in the first place.

1. Do not torque the eye and shackle bolts down until the weight of the truck is fully on the ground and you've bounced up and down on the bumper a couple of times.

2. Do not necessarily torque to factory specs. The bushings and sleeves are completely different on most springs, so you may need less torque. Too much for some designs and you will have not only a stiffer ride than necessary, but it could lead to the truck sitting high in the rear and even leaning different ways at different times.

For proper torque, if your bushings start to mash out before your sleeves stop the compression of the ears of the spring mounts/hangers/shackles, then you need to just torque them to a modest amount that does not include mashing down the bushings much, if at all.
For this to work, your hardware has to be in like-new condition where the locking nuts will hold tight even without a high torque reading. Original c-nuts are probably worn out by now, but if they're still good and tight, or you have newer locking nuts installed, you're probably good to go.

Sorry if you knew all that already, but it's good to bring that up now and then so everybody knows the score when things are changed.

Paul
 

JSBX

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Mar 10, 2010
Messages
614
I would drive the Bronco for a while before taking any springs out. Sometimes new springs will settle a little after hitting a few bumps and pot holes.
 

bknbronco

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Jan 17, 2011
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4,378
Loc.
North Metro, MN
drive it maybe 5000 miles and it will be lower than when you started for sure! I wouldn't do anything till you got over 10,000 on it!

what are you talking about....looks like it sits perfect to me!
 

DirtDonk

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JSBX and bkn are giving you good advice there Rusted. But if you're going to run it virtually empty in the rear like that, and not add a big tank, bumper and tire carrier, back seat and such, it might take quite awhile to settle.

And if you're not going to be driving it much (like a lot of owners don't these days), then it could take even longer. With it sitting that high in the rear, I can see why you'd be anxious to get it down. But for sure drive it at least a bit if you haven't yet, and even better would be to load it up with some weight back there while you're doing it.
And like I said originally, it won't hurt to query Tom's about their springs characteristics as well.

If this is going to be a low-mileage driver with no additional weight on the back, pulling leaves early on (but still after driving it a bit first) is still probably going to be a good option. Just be ready to put at least some of them back in down the road if you drive it harder or add weight.
Oh, or start rubbing tires!

Paul
 

KyleQ

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Apr 24, 2008
Messages
5,480
I would toss a few sand tubes in the back and put some miles on it to get the springs to settle.
 

bknbronco

Bronco Guru
Joined
Jan 17, 2011
Messages
4,378
Loc.
North Metro, MN
mine settled over 1/2" and that's only with the stock rear bench seat back there for weight, and I have a glass tub....so while some weight back thee might speed up te process its not necessary....what is necessary is 5,000 miles under your belt with the new lift
 

707Bronk

Sr. Member
Joined
Mar 18, 2012
Messages
590
I know its a personal choice, but I like the look.

It doesn't have that much of a rake to it either. I've seen worse...

Nice lookn bronco!
 

welndmn

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 12, 2001
Messages
2,112
It's always important to wear in the springs too, springs sit higher for the first few 100 miles.
I put 400 or 500 gallon water tank then fill it when I deal with new springs. This lets me wear them in with out a lot of driving.
 
OP
OP
Rusted1

Rusted1

Full Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2002
Messages
290
Good info everyone its appreciated! Today I installed the rear Mastercraft seat and working on the tire carrier.
 
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