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- Nov 3, 2003
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But we keep coming back to WH stock height leaf springs being the only ones reported as needing shims.
None of the other vendors stock height springs have been mentioned as giving 2 to 3 inches of lift, at least none that I have seen.
A reasonable concern. However I believe that only WH and BCB have thicker packs in stock height to begin with. Which narrows the list down a bit.
Theirs is a 9-leaf and ours is a 10-leaf. So not a lot to compare to in design perhaps, even when compared to stock 5 and 6 packs.
And we really don't know how many owners experience things and don't report on them, or do and just don't do it here. But it's still a valid question and I don't know the answer yet.
Oh and Paul, I just want to make it clear that I’m not bad mouthing WH in any way...
Nope, not at all. Haven't felt that way since we've been discussing all aspects and directions to take in all the discussions.
Thanks!
Paul, I bet the spring arc is different. Anybody lay a stock set over a new/lifted set? You would be hard pressed to see or know a 5 degree change in perch angle looking at springs on the floor I think.
That's what I'd like to know. But for sure the overall arc/arch is different between the three types of springs. By "three" types I mean totally stock 5 and 6-leaf type (has the most arch), and for comparison one of our 11-leaf lifted springs (medium arch) and our 10-pack stock height (least arch) in this discussion.
The lifted spring not only has one more leaf, but more arch. And likely a higher spring rate to go along with that as well.
How this might possibly equate to a different angle at the perch is not determined though.
Wouldn't it be better to increase the spring rate a little, making them stiffer for a heavier load make more sense than to make a stock height spring set with the same arch as a 3 inch lift in the hope it will settle?
An unloaded Bronco might ride a little harder that way, but it wouldn't have a stance like an old jacked up muscle car.
Again a good question. But for now at least, no it would not be better for our springs.
We've come to the "softer is better, but only up to a point" conclusion over a long haul of selling suspension parts. And listening to customers.
Yes, stiffer would allow more load and perhaps more consistent initial heights (maybe), as well as more load carrying capacity. But most of our customers never asked for either of those. Instead they ask for the softest ride available, with the most flex possible, while not losing too much in the other categories. Which is what we've tried to accommodate.
I do believe we should be able to achieve that goal without the added height initially, but I'll have to leave the final answer to that to someone that knows how these springs are designed and built better than I do.
From the spring rate and design criteria, we managed to strike a pretty reasonable balance between ride quality (it's never going to be great in a vehicle like this), load capacity, reliability, flexibility (used to be one of the main priorities in fact, but I'm sure we've all seen where the market has gone lately in that regard), safety (the double-wrap eye) and road manners/handling.
The current versions ride better, sag less, break leaves less often, flex more and just work better overall than any springs of the past did. So in that we succeeded as good as we could have hoped.
But I'm still not sure where this stink-bug stance initially comes from. From most of the reports you guys that have the too-high-in-the-rear stance have been giving lately, it's not the same as it was before. When they sat high in the rear before it was a pretty quick matter of just drive it a few miles, or weeks until it settles. Load the back up with a couple hundred additional pounds and things settle down even sooner. But apparently not with everyone. The last couple of years have seen more last longer. Either that or, not wanting to wait, simply remove leaves until the desired height is achieved. Then put them back as the springs settle down.
Luckily it's still a pretty small percentage that don't just settle right down, but that doesn't make it any easier for the ones that do have the issue.
To the OP though, Flintster did you call in and check to see what others had to say? If so, what was the result? You going to continue and see how long it takes to settle, or decide to go with a Plan-B if you don't want to deal with it?
Hopefully you end up satisfied. Either with the product itself (not yet of course), or if not, at least the service!
But too, while you're still dealing with it, if you have some ratchet straps it would be interesting to see what your pinion angle is when at stock height with our springs.
In other words, using the straps you could compress the suspension to an approximately 6" height between the top of the axle tube and the bottom of the frame rail to see if the pinion angle stays the same or goes back to it's "stock" angle, where you would not need shims.
Lots of side chatter here while you toil away on your Bronco, but from our standpoint it's still interesting to discuss it all and narrow this stuff down to the cure.
Thanks again for your patience in dealing with this dilemma.
Paul