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Fix Motor Mount
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Ford 6R80 6 spd
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New owner from Germany
- Thread starter tody
- Start date
74BroncoCO
Bronco Guru
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2004
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- 2,374
I'll bet that was tough to find and I can't imagine what shipping was...
found the case on ebay and the parts kit through rearcounter. shipping was ok, i'm used to pay big bucks for that by now... it's my third car i'm building over here.
the front axle is now back together:
it's also back in the car, but i forgot to take pictures when i left the garage...
the front axle is now back together:
it's also back in the car, but i forgot to take pictures when i left the garage...
i'm not particularly happy with the front tooth pattern. .013 backlash, which is on the loose side but still within spec. pattern is noticeably not centered, though.
as there are still two issues with the front differential (will the chipped teeth on the gear be ok? pinion bearings run not as smooth as i'd like them to), i will leave it for now and possibly go through it again later.
front suspension is in, with variable rate coils springs and bilstein shocks:
front is completely assembled. doing the king pins was a lot easier than i thought. ball joints on the steering still feel tight.
passenger side spindle needs some attention, though. it already had two helicoil inserts, and while torquing the bolts to spec, i might have stripped a third.
here's how the rig sits now, without an engine. it almost looks like i might get away with 31" tires when i put in the 1" body lift!
as there are still two issues with the front differential (will the chipped teeth on the gear be ok? pinion bearings run not as smooth as i'd like them to), i will leave it for now and possibly go through it again later.
front suspension is in, with variable rate coils springs and bilstein shocks:
front is completely assembled. doing the king pins was a lot easier than i thought. ball joints on the steering still feel tight.
passenger side spindle needs some attention, though. it already had two helicoil inserts, and while torquing the bolts to spec, i might have stripped a third.
here's how the rig sits now, without an engine. it almost looks like i might get away with 31" tires when i put in the 1" body lift!
something straight out of italy: the leaning tower of pisa...
so on the passenger side i had a bent spindle, three stripped threads on the bottom of the knuckle and a blown u-joint. in the differential, i had marks from a blown bearing on the ring gear side. that and a replaced front fender, different door and rear quarter, all on the passenger side lead to a pretty big blow to the car. i wonder what it once looked like with all the damage...
i just found a used spindle on ebay, available through the international shipping program. usually takes two weeks until it arrives so stay tuned!
so on the passenger side i had a bent spindle, three stripped threads on the bottom of the knuckle and a blown u-joint. in the differential, i had marks from a blown bearing on the ring gear side. that and a replaced front fender, different door and rear quarter, all on the passenger side lead to a pretty big blow to the car. i wonder what it once looked like with all the damage...
i just found a used spindle on ebay, available through the international shipping program. usually takes two weeks until it arrives so stay tuned!
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Haha... dang the luck
something straight out of italy: the leaning tower of pisa...
so on the passenger side i had a bent spindle, three stripped threads on the bottom of the knuckle and a blown u-joint. in the differential, i had marks from a blown bearing on the ring gear side. that and a replaced front fender, different door and rear quarter, all on the passenger side lead to a pretty big blow to the car. i wonder what it once looked like with all the damage...
i just found a used spindle on ebay, available through the international shipping program. usually takes two weeks until it arrives so stay tuned!
no pictures, but new spindle is in. no more crazy leaning tire!
removed the shift linkage. with the body lift, it was slightly rubbing - need to cut up the floor opening a little more. i also need to put in a reverse light switch and a hurst pit pack.
next i will drop the transmission and transfer case for a reseal, if not a rebuild.
i will need to make new brake lines. and the wiring needs to be sorted out in some places.
removed the shift linkage. with the body lift, it was slightly rubbing - need to cut up the floor opening a little more. i also need to put in a reverse light switch and a hurst pit pack.
next i will drop the transmission and transfer case for a reseal, if not a rebuild.
i will need to make new brake lines. and the wiring needs to be sorted out in some places.
so this weekend i started with the brake lines. used copper line and new fittings:
the front hose went in ok:
but the rear hose seems way to short:
i got a wagner hose, BH78070:
but if you look closely at the picture above, it's just a reboxed SUNSONG hose. that's a $18 price difference on rockauto just for a different box.
i forgot to measure if it's actually too short or if something alse is wrong. parts catalog says it should be 14 1/8". part no is C6TZ 2282-B and crosses over to a Dorman H36656 hose. that's $8 on rockauto - should have gotten this in the first place...
the front hose went in ok:
but the rear hose seems way to short:
i got a wagner hose, BH78070:
but if you look closely at the picture above, it's just a reboxed SUNSONG hose. that's a $18 price difference on rockauto just for a different box.
i forgot to measure if it's actually too short or if something alse is wrong. parts catalog says it should be 14 1/8". part no is C6TZ 2282-B and crosses over to a Dorman H36656 hose. that's $8 on rockauto - should have gotten this in the first place...
fun fact:
Raybestos BH36656 - which i forgot i had on the shelf - also is the SUNSONG brake hose in the raybestos box. that's a $22 markup for a nice raybestos carboard box. so if you ever need a stock length brake hose, make sure to buy the cheap SUNSONG hose. that's what you'll end up with anyway.
i measured the length of the hose - 14.5".
could it be that the rear suspension, not being torqued down hangs lower than it would if fully torqued?
Raybestos BH36656 - which i forgot i had on the shelf - also is the SUNSONG brake hose in the raybestos box. that's a $22 markup for a nice raybestos carboard box. so if you ever need a stock length brake hose, make sure to buy the cheap SUNSONG hose. that's what you'll end up with anyway.
i measured the length of the hose - 14.5".
could it be that the rear suspension, not being torqued down hangs lower than it would if fully torqued?
74BroncoCO
Bronco Guru
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- Nov 3, 2004
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Not enough to make a difference. I seem to remember there being one for a 2nd gen bronco that was longer, but that has been a LONG time since I've looked into that!
started working on the wiring!
sealed beams are not allowed over here, H4 lights are mandatory. this calls for a relay harness. used a cheap chinese premade harness. made my own harness with a relay for the fog lights.
reworked the parking light, turn signal and side marker wiring due to regulations over here. parking lights need to be inside the headlights only. front side markers and grille lights are now both turn signals, nothing else.
checked the wiring inside the cab:
- turn signal switch needed a new cam.
- emergency flasher switch was broken. found the plug, fitted a new switch, still not working. will need to look into that.
- removed the mechanical oil gauge, put in a new electrical gauge.
- only two wires cut, one badly spliced in. cigarette lighter and courtesy light wire will need fixing. i will use the two for a radio.
i will be running a pertronix ignition. i will see how i can bypass the resistor wire altogether...
sealed beams are not allowed over here, H4 lights are mandatory. this calls for a relay harness. used a cheap chinese premade harness. made my own harness with a relay for the fog lights.
reworked the parking light, turn signal and side marker wiring due to regulations over here. parking lights need to be inside the headlights only. front side markers and grille lights are now both turn signals, nothing else.
checked the wiring inside the cab:
- turn signal switch needed a new cam.
- emergency flasher switch was broken. found the plug, fitted a new switch, still not working. will need to look into that.
- removed the mechanical oil gauge, put in a new electrical gauge.
- only two wires cut, one badly spliced in. cigarette lighter and courtesy light wire will need fixing. i will use the two for a radio.
i will be running a pertronix ignition. i will see how i can bypass the resistor wire altogether...
You're going to have the nicest all terrain vehicle in Germany. Ken
74BroncoCO
Bronco Guru
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2004
- Messages
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FIFY - You have to remember what off-roading rigs are made in Germany!
FIFY=? Don't know the nomenclature.
Longer stock appearing brake hose... If you still need one that is...
"Someone mentioned at the BBQ about needing an extended rear brake hose. Here is a thread on classic about a stock application hose that is 5-6 inches longer than the one on the Bronco and with the correct fittings:
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119175
I ordered one at the local O'reilly/Kragens and it took a couple days to get it."
"Someone mentioned at the BBQ about needing an extended rear brake hose. Here is a thread on classic about a stock application hose that is 5-6 inches longer than the one on the Bronco and with the correct fittings:
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=119175
I ordered one at the local O'reilly/Kragens and it took a couple days to get it."
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