Gonna start a body off semi resto

[BOSSHOSS74]

I'm new here, I'm going to start off with a big question though. My father and I did a full resto on our 69 bronco about 15 years but alot has been erased from my memory since then. Well my father passed away 5 years ago and he (we) never got to start on the 74 bronco sport that he had purchased. Well now it is time that I do it myself, I was looking for pointers from you guys as to what is the best way to remove the body from the frame? Top on? Top off? Lift off on to sawhorses? It the body strong enough to lift it off? I am trying to take the body off while it is complete if I can, when we did the 69' bronco we took it down the a bare tub first so it was easy to remove with three people. Anyway I will stop with the rambling for now, but I will be looking to you guys for lots of pointers down the road.

If you guys have been on here for a while I am sure you have talked to my dad at some point or another, here is a link to the cardomain page I created right after he passed

http://www.cardomain.com/ride/587477/1969-ford-bronco

 

[fordguy]

i am subscribing to this thread. my body is coming off in the very near future. it is great shape so i want to take all precautions not to tweak it.

 

[BOSSHOSS74]

 

[Scoop]

Most people pull the tub with top already removed. They usually weld braces from door post to striker post on both sides before they pull the tub to keep things aligned. If you don't have a 2-post lift then you can build a frame (or wide sawhorses) to hold the tub. Lift the tub straight up, slide in the saw horses and roll the chassis out from underneath. There are several build threads that show the process.

BTW, welcome to the site!

 

[Nightstick]

First off welcome, you'll find people with limitless knowledge of these old rigs here, so you definitely came to the right place.

You can read this thread which will tell you how not to do it. I left mine as complete as possible when I pulled it because I wanted to just put it back on and drive it after the chassis work is finished before I start on the bodywork.

Brace the door openings and use multiple lifting points like from the seat mounting holes. The engine hoist works, but an overhead would be much better. Good luck

 

[Explorer]

Bax I believe has an arrangement that might work, using four points of lift at the fenderwells. Personally I wouldn't try it, too many things to go wrong. I guess a lot depends on what you have to work with.

 

[JIMS74]

This is what I came up with for a lifting jig, it bolts to seat and seatbelt holes. Good luck with your project.

 

[Explorer]

Like the rig! Can't imagine pulling one without removing top and bracing it.

 

[fordguy]

i like bracing the doors like nightstick and using the jig like jims74. Jim can you give us the measurement for the center point on the jig (or at least the point where it balances like yours). what size angle? also cant see what you made your lift point out of.

 

[JIMS74]

"Jim can you give us the measurement for the center point on the jig (or at least the point where it balances like yours). what size angle? also cant see what you made your lift point out of."

I used a piece of 3" angle and some 1/4" plate, I had laying around. Found the centerline of the tub, and marked it with a sharpie maker. I placed the 3" angle on the centerline of the tub and built the jig in place, welded a post and a jacking screw up front under the cowl area. I used a cheap load leveler for an engine hoist to find the center front to back. It worked better than I expected.
Jim

 

[crimorabronco]

We pulled mine off with two post lift. We left doors and top on and had no problems..

 

[fordguy]

i know you can build things cheaper than this but for less than a thousand it it pretty awesome http://www.derekweaver.com/update/Auto_Rotisserie_Auto_Rotisserie_Product.aspx?id=63

 

[JIMS74]

Unless you can get a great deal on the steel you would have a hard time building a rotisserie with jacks at each end for under 1,000.00. If you buy a new one the shipping would be rather steep. I found the one I have local on craigslist for 800.00.
Jim

 

[BOSSHOSS74]

Thanks for all the ideas guys, I have all the materials to do the bracing. But a friend offered to pull the body off at his place and he has a commercial HD forklift so I might try that....Also he gave me use of his commercial sandblasted he uses on all his heavy equipment.

 

[fordguy]

buddy just got one shipped for 125.00 dollars. i am envious. Jim what bolt holes did you use, just the seat bolt holes. you lost me when you went past the front seat riser with the post and screw. i could not tell from the pics

 

[JIMS74]

I used seat and seatbelt holes. The post and jacking screw fit up under the cowl area, I used that in lieu of trying to find something to bolt to on or near the firewall. If you build something like it, make sure you don't cover where the transfer case shifter comes through.
Jim

 

[BOSSHOSS74]

Starting the body off next weekend, I'll post up some pics then. Now that I'm a contributor I figured I'd post some old pics of the body off my father and I did on his 69' bronco

 

[BOSSHOSS74]

Ok, so I now have access to a automotive 4 post lift and will be pulling the body that way.... Can anyone give me a list of things to disconnect to be able to separate the body from the frame? Going to be doing it this weekend. I know there will be things I will forget to disconnect so any help would be appreciated.

 

[flousberg]

Has anyone pulled the body using a family cage? I was thinking of strapping on the cage with chain hoist overhead.

 

[buckintone]

This is how I took my tub off the frame. 1 case of beer, 2 xlarge pizza's, 3 hours of BSn material, 4 buddy's. Done deal;D (weld bars between strike and post)