Dana 20 Tear Down

[tcjones76]

I am 99% through the tear down of my Dana 20, with only the front wheel drive shaft left to remove. The Ford manual says, "Wedge the front output shaft front bearing away from the main drive gear to allow removal of the snap ring." How much force is required to move the bearing? Is it a pressed on bearing or is there a tool?

Bearing on the left, main gear on the right.

Oh, and anyone have an extra idler shaft roller, I seem to be short one, Ouugh!

tcj

 

[73azbronco]

http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?t=164025&page=2

post 18 in my rebuild shows what it looks like without bearing and it's a J shifter. I think i just beat on the left side of the driveshaft while supporting the gears and the housing so they wouldn't be damaged, there was no snap ring on my j shift, circa 1973 case. You can use a gear puller as well.

If you think your short a bearing you may be short two, as I recall getting them all in was a tight proposition. You might reuse a bearing if need be, pick out a good looking one.

 

[rockingm82]

That is a press on bearing and it takes a lot of force. I used a small pry bar and because I planned to replace the bearing, I wasn't worried about damage to the bearing. The snap ring is the true POA!

There's a post on this thread that is a wonderful resource.
http://classicbroncos.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1658636#post1658636

 

[Fitz24]

My D20 ('75) didn't have a snap ring either. Don't quite remember how I did it, but I didn't need a puller to get the bearing off. Had to drive the new one on though.

 

[tcjones76]

I looked at the front shaft bearings and I think they are usable. The reason for the tear down was to fix the leaking shaft seals and to setup for true twin-stick. I think I will leave the front intact.

About the idler shaft roller, anyone have one?

 

[bax]

The t shift is the one with the snap ring it's bearing is not a press fit. The j shift has no clip and a press fit bearing. I think that is how it goes.

 

[73azbronco]

pic of what you need so we know what your talking about, more importantly, so i can go look at my box of leftovers.

 

[tcjones76]

The bearing roller (thingy-ma-bob) for the idler gear, 0.186" diameter by 1/169" length.


*** Hooked up with DonsBolt today, the rollers are in the air (mail)...Thanks Don.

 

[Viperwolf1]

The t shift is the one with the snap ring it's bearing is not a press fit. The j shift has no clip and a press fit bearing. I think that is how it goes.

Correct for the most part. The front shaft lost the snap ring before the shift rails and gearing was changed sometime in '73.

 

[cactushorse]

subed for the info

 

[70_Steve]

Here's a link to the Dana 20 manual that Jon is hosting. It has notes from the transcriber on the differences he found between the t-shift described in the manual, and the J-shift he rebuilt.
http://www.classicbroncos.com/dana20/dana_20_manual.html

Here is his notes on removing the front output shaft.

16. Wedge the front output shaft front bearing away from the main drive gear to allow removal of the snap ring from its groove in the shaft. Then, tap the shaft and rear bearing out of the case (Fig. 8).

[Editor’s note: Your J-shift case MAY NOT have the aforementioned c-clip on the front drive output shaft in between the bearing cone and the high speed drive gear. If not, note that the front bearing cone is mildly pressed onto the shaft at the splined area. You are able to CAREFULLY (with a light hammer and a soft drift) tap the shaft assembly toward the rear of the case, driving the front bearing cone off the shaft. You can now remove the shaft assembly.

I've done the same a couple times, but I put a couple pieces of flatbar between the front sliding gear and the case, just to distribute the force when tapping the shaft out the back.

Yes, I have a whole pile of those idler shaft bearings. PM me if you still need them.

 

[tcjones76]

Rollers are in the mail and I ordered a seal and gasket kit from Advanced. I also discovered that the the J-shift doesn't require internal nodes for the twin stick to work independently. Moving right along...