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Chasing wiring gremlins

Boss Hugg

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We have a 76 model with wiring problems. It's a barn find that we've spent a little time and obey to running very well. Then it got dark and we noticed that it just wouldn't get out of its own way when any light was on: turn signals, headlights, brakes, anything. We have a short and we know it, just not sure where. The r/blu wire from ign switch to the neutral safety switch is burned all the way between those switches and back to the firewall connector is burned badly. I have the harness out of the truck, and I'm trying to figure out where this problem could be. That is the only burned wire I've found.
 

WARDOG

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Graniteville, CA
It going to be nuthin but time invested in tracking down the short. Besides the burnt wire may have created even more shorts.
Just when you think you have it chased down, it will burn down your garage or flame up on the trail.
Whatever is burning up is pulling a lot of amps.
Did you blow any fuses or were any of your fuses replaced with higher amp fuses, tin foil, pennies or bolts?
If the harness is original, I would suggest going all of the way and installing a complete NEW harness.

Otherwise replace the wires that are burnt, then start looking at wires that pass through the firewall, or are next to body / suspension parts that are moving all of the time.
 
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Boss Hugg

Boss Hugg

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All fuses are correct and still functional. I suspect a shorted nss, but its now disconnected. It still runs but (I forgot to mention) the timing jumps all over when a light is on. This harness has not been modified (only modi-FRIED one wire) and the wires are still good, so we'd rather fix the problem rather than buy a new harness that might have the same thing happen due to something outside the harness.
 
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Boss Hugg

Boss Hugg

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Need to clarify.. I think the nss shorted causing the burned wire. With it now bypassed, there is no way that is where the new short is.
 

oleguy74

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there are two sets of wires on nss.one for ign and one for backup lites.make sure the wire harness going to the rear is not laying on the exhaust pipe.my harness came loose many years ago and hit exh pipe.
 
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Boss Hugg

Boss Hugg

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The PO cut this four wires about three inches outside of the connector, toward the tranny. Now the wires coming out of the nss are hanging over the transmission to the passenger side. So it shouldn't matter about those wires. I think you're talking about the wires that connect at the drivers side firewall? I'll definitely check that..
 
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Boss Hugg

Boss Hugg

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Nope. Wires are not burnt by the exhaust pipes.
 

Wilkenjoel

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I'd also like to recommend the new harness. Having experienced chasing electrical gremlins myself for countless hours on such a simple electrical system is maddening and never ending. In my case the age of the harness caused cracks and led to corroded sections in random places, most ground points were garbage, and nearly every connector walk dry rotted and corroded as well. Even if you find this mysterious short, there will be more, forever. It is well worth the $ to get a new harness.
 

DirtDonk

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Is the entire chassis harness out and laying around, or just parts of it?
If out, then the truck is no longer running, so it's harder to track down certain things.

Your first description of the engine running wonky when other lights would come on is a classic no-charge/weak-battery symptom. Could also be a bad connection in the ignition system, or lack of grounding, but it's hard to say until you find something amiss in the harness.

Only way to test the components with the wiring out is to test the alternator and regulator directly. Either at home with certain tests that others will have to supply, or by taking it down to a parts store that has the test-equipment and someone who knows how to use it.

But you can check a couple of the circuits for continuity at least. And for loose or corroded connections by jiggling the wires under testing.

Charging system:

Make sure that the Green w/red wire to the voltage regulator is connected to the ignition switch and working.
Make sure that the Yellow wire at the voltage regulator is connected directly to the large Black (or Black w/red stripe) wire to the starter relay.
Make sure that the Orange "field" wire is in good shape and tightly connected between the regulator and the alternator.
Make sure that the radio noise suppressor with the small Yellow wire that's attached to the larger Yellow wire is not feeding through the case to ground.
Make sure your battery is good!

Ignition sytem:

Make sure that the resistor wire between the ignition switch and firewall does not have too much resistance.
Make sure that the rest of that wire on the other side of the firewall (Red w/green) is in good shape from the key to the coil.
Make sure that the radio noise suppressor attached to the positive side of the coil is not starting to short out through the case either. Like the one on the regulator, if it's shorted it can cause all sorts of mischief.

The Red w/blue wire that burned could have been due to it having too much resistance due to a break or corrosion.
Or the starter relay failed or shorted.
Or the NSS failed and shorted.
Or there was a break in the wire and it shorted directly.

I can't think of any other way for that wire alone to burn to the ground. It's pretty straightforward, so I would think something would look obvious to your eye.
Other than the clues being charred too that is!

Good luck. Pretty ambitious taking the whole harness out just for one wire and poor performance when the lights were on. But others here have done it too, with mostly very good results.

Hope yours works out easily.

Paul
 
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Boss Hugg

Boss Hugg

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Paul, yes I agree that I jumped to early in pulling the harness out, but its dads truck and I'm gonna do it the way he wants. He at least wanted to chase the burned wire out and retake the entire harness making sure there are no more burnt spots.

We checked the charging system very thoroughly. With headlights on, ammeter shows good charging, just been a few weeks so I don't remember the numbers. With battery charger running while engine is running and using a dwell meter to read voltage to coil, the voltage goes up and down as you turn on things that pull power. Even the blower motor. The radio was unhooked.

I kinda think this problem is why the guy parked it back in about 88.

Now to check all the ign system...
 
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DirtDonk

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Have you got it untaped as well? That would be good for looking at splices and other hidden gremlins.
If the battery seemed to be charging at all, and the ammeter showing a charge, then it seems your charging system is ok.

I wonder then, if one of the main splices is deteriorating inside. There are one or two main junction points buried in the tape under the dash. Sometimes black, sometimes another color, but basically just a block of molded plastic with several wires leading into and out of it.
If any of those are broken, that might lead to what you're describing.
Hard to imagine that though, from the general quality and longevity of the factory splices. They're usually fantastically done.

Then again, the more common culprits would be two things. One is the individual components themselves getting old and rusty or weak, and creating too much resistance internally.
And two, and just as common on Broncos, is the deteriorating ground wire/connection issue. Some break, some corrode, some just get removed during servicing and fixing during an EB's lifetime, and too many rely on a good connection between the body panels.
Is yours getting kind of rusty? Even if not through and through, then maybe at the seams and such? Especially between the inner fenders, core support, wheel wells and firewall?

I could see too much reliance on physical contact being a grounding problem on a lot of EB's.
Of course, the wire that melted on yours is only used during start anyway, so that one thing seems more likely due to a faulty component or wire.

It's the drop in voltage that seems likely to be a ground issue.

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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Oh, and one of the other connectors that's critical to the normal workings of an EB is that one bullet-type connector there near the ammeter. On some Broncos they get pretty corroded and will build up enough resistance to cause trouble.
And if that one goes bad, literally everything else in the truck could be effected.

Paul
 
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Boss Hugg

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Guys....

If you ever remove the body ground cable, HOOK IT BACK UP!!

LOL. PO took it loose and we didn't see it. Problem fixed.

Apparently the lights were trying to ground back thru the ign system.
 
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Boss Hugg

Boss Hugg

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For your pleasure... we had a guy come up to us at a gas station where I was filling my bronco up on the way to the sprint car races. He asked if we looking for another bronco like mine. I looked at dad like, "DUHHHH..." he told us where to find this thing and a few days and much deliberation later, dad brought it home.
matehudy.jpg
 

DirtDonk

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Score!!!!!

Thank goodness for people willing to pipe up to strangers!

Paul
 

DirtDonk

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Oh, and congrats on the find-of-the-day too!
Good call on that ground connection. All the more reason we recommend multiple ground paths of decent gauge.
You may be lucky that more current didn't try to find it's way through smaller wires.
Wouldn't be pretty!

Paul
 
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Boss Hugg

Boss Hugg

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Yeah, and curse those that cause headaches huh? On the other hand, that ground connection being loose may have caused the PO to get discusted and park it. BTW PO is an electrician by trade--trading for lots of beer....

Thanks for your time guys.
 
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