• Welcome to ClassicBroncos! - You are currently viewing the forums as a GUEST. To take advantage of all the site features, please take a moment to register. It's fast, simple and absolutely free. So please join our community today!
    If you have problems registering or can't log into your account, please contact Admin.

Brakes are lacking lockup

73azbronco

Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 11, 2007
Messages
7,841
Take it in the dirt, dirt or gravel road, see if you can get them to lock up.

I have a 2013 jeep it has to be wet for it to really lock up, otherwise, head goes into windshield with 33's.
 

KyddsPly

Sr. Member
Joined
Nov 30, 2012
Messages
941
I had problem with this on 35’s. Just couldn’t lock them up when needed. It almost cause me to rear end a car on the freeway. I ended up moving to hydro boost system from wild horses and locked up my 37 with ease. If the booster isn’t getting bough vacuum, it can cause this as well. But I wasn’t even close to locking up with the 35’s and your on 33’s with good vacuum, I would assume that may be all the stopping power you’re going to get.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

67mustang390

Newbie
Joined
Oct 16, 2019
Messages
40
So its running about 17 on vac. I checked it on the angled curb (not straight up and down but not a typical driveway angle). and rolled it down. I tried to stop it as it just started breaking over. Full brake it just rolled down into the gutter and stopped.

I have a local guy that's going to help take a look at it but still appreciate any ideas to check.
 

DirtDonk

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Nov 3, 2003
Messages
47,709
Now I had the brakes "fixed" but I also cannot lock them up and am frustrated at paying nearly a grand to get them working. They are working but won't lock up tight.
new booster, new master, new lines from master to NEW proportioning valve. new lines to all 4 tires. factory disc front 11 inch rear.

Well, let's dig a little deeper and maybe narrow some stuff down. (sorry for the continued hijack Jfryjfry!)
First, was there anything wrong with them in the first place, or was it just a service? And if wrong, what was going on? Same thing with not stopping the oversize tires?

Are the calipers new?
What type of proportioning valve is used, and is the original removed?
Which master cylinder did you go with? Stock, or aftermarket? Same 1" original size, or larger?
Which booster? Rebuilt original, or replacement? If a replacement, any chance the old one is still available for rebuilding?

5.5 inch wild horses lift with 35's. im sure the 35s aren't helping the situation but still feel like I should be able to lock them up?? am I wrong?

Maybe wrong. Those 35's are a LOT larger and heavier than anything Ford ever intended. But they should still stop with confidence, if not exactly being easy to lock up.
You do have the big brakes, and the stock discs are decent. In fact I like them better than the GM setup, even though with the larger piston the GM setups are theoretically able to provide more clamping force against the rotor.
Maybe in the front, changing to the T-bird calipers will net you some more stopping ability.

The height of the lift is not helping either, but it's more of a balance thing than any effect it has on actual power to the brakes. In fact should make it easier to lock up the rears due to weight-shift towards the front during normal braking.
But a larger master cylinder bore can effect things as well. It will make for a firmer pedal, but at the expense of taking more effort to achieve the same pressure.

How well are the rear brakes adjusted? Sounds like you did not do it yourself, but if you check them sometime, see if you hear a decent amount of scraping when you turn the wheel.
Another thing that is I think a bad trend, is the manufacturers no longer making the rear shoes in "primary" and "secondary" sizes. This is a long-lauded feature of drum brakes called their "self-energizing" property. Where just applying the brakes causes them to increase their clamping force by naturally rocking inside the drum. Creating more pressure than just what is being applied by the fluid.

Not having the short/long shoe material is something I've only seen in the last couple of years. Apparently it's cheaper to do this way? Or they don't want to hassle with two different sizes and some salesperson touted the fact that they're selling you "more friction surface area" or some such bs like that.

It could be worth pulling a drum off just to be sure. I've seen pro shops get it wrong because the tech was used to disc brakes and had never worked on a drum before. Or was sidetracked and didn't pay attention.
The short (primary) shoe goes to the front of the drum and the long (secondary) faces the rear.
But this is just the rear brakes in your case obviously.

For the fronts, the new prop valve might be holding things off. I've only seen it once (which is a miracle in itself these days!) but a brand new proportioning valve was keeping fluid from getting to the fronts at all. Which is weird to begin with, since the proportioning feature is only in the rear circuit. Defective part then. Maybe a stuck delay valve.
This was the brass-block style that mounts in the normal location. Not one of the manually adjustable ones.

So just a bunch of rambling, but maybe this touches on some of the stuff.
I would see if you can borrow a set of 31" tires maybe, and see how the brakes feel then. If they are still weak, I'd take it back to the shop and ask them what they think could be the issue.
With 35's, it's probably just too hard for anyone that's not intimately familiar with Broncos and how they drive and stop, to know what to expect with such a large tire.
At this point, we need to hear from more owners with 35's (thanks for the feedback Kyddsply) and those with 37" tires to hear their experiences with vacuum boosted setups.

Good luck.

Paul
 

svastano

Contributor
Bronco Guru
Joined
Apr 8, 2017
Messages
1,326
Loc.
Pulaski, PA
Well, I have 35's on my 77 and I have stopping issues too but I have not had a chance to check the master cylinder rod length. I think that is my problem. Pedal is soft 1st quarter of the way down then gets firm. If you are not used to driving it can give you a heck of a scare the first time applying the brakes! I can lock the brakes when adjusting them doing the go backwards fast and stomp on the brakes to make the adjusters work themselves out. Mine is still in storage until we get some decent warm weather. No use me messing with them until I can drive and test after I make adjustments.
 

Rustytruck

Bronco Guru
Joined
Feb 24, 2002
Messages
10,875
put the truck up on jack stands with the hubs unlocked and truck in neutral parking brake off. engine not running have some one lightly press on the brake. then manually try to turn the tires see which ones are dragging and which ones are not. then do it again with a little more pressure and check again. then more pressure and do it again. there will be a point where the discs hold firm and the drums need more pressure to lock up. look for brakes reacting sooner that its mate on the other side. then you have to work on the low pressure side. look for fluid flow issues. Then stuck wheel cylinders.
also check for residual pressure on the drum brake side. without residual pressure the wheel cylinders will collapse all the way down and need much more fluid travel when you brake. Making the rear brakes lazy. if you have access to brake line pressure gauge that may help spot the trouble. be suspect of old rubber brake line they can have some funny method of failure and just not leak.
 

weaver735

New Member
Joined
Feb 18, 2020
Messages
14
Make shure the rear brake shoes are properly adjusted if there is to much space you will use up most of the master cylinder stroke before they actually start to work. Also make sure the master cylinder piston is the right size you said they were gm mixed with ford if the piston is to big it won't generate enough pressuer if to small it will have a long stroke and bottom out before creating enough pressure for the brakes to properly work this is a problem to think about when mixing parts
 

67mustang390

Newbie
Joined
Oct 16, 2019
Messages
40
Update.....so the left (drivers) adjusting star was a passengers so when it was adjusting, it would adjust all the way in (loose). I happened to have the old one and reinstalled the correct drivers side adjuster. Brakes basically fell apart when I took the drum off.

Also, both wheel cylinders were bad so got correct new ones, installed, bled and nano, the 35s wont full on lock up but it's close. Some start squalling but not all 4. Both forward and backward...stops really hard and good.

The friend that helped me said they havent fully seated and as I drive over about 500 miles they will seat in and get even better.

Thanks everyone for your help. Wanted to give an update on the issues that were fixed and corrected
 
OP
OP
J

Jfryjfry

Sr. Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2017
Messages
502
Update: I installed a 7/8 master that was given to me along with a proportioning valve on the back and the pedal would go to the floor if you pushed pretty hard.
I put new shoes in the rear and with full stroke, the rears would lock. So I bypassed the stock H-block and just installed a 1 1/8 master and the pedal feels great and won’t hit the floor but still won’t lock the fronts up. They feel like they are close to it but not there.

To rehash: 3-4” lift (not sure, came with it) and large heavy tires (35”?). Front chevy disc conversion and vacuum power brakes.

I guess my question is: am I at the limits of the smaller booster and large wheels on a taller truck? Or should I be able to lock me up?

I have bled them thoroughly but it is always possible that there is still air in the system.
 
Top