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Brake Equalizer block

DirtDonk

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The switch should still be available I believe. It’s the two wire Ford version.
The single wire GM version is more common in the aftermarket, but the two wire is needed, if you are keeping the stock wire.
Actually, it’s not critical that you keep it for that reason only. The main reason is that the two don’t have the same threads and are not compatible with each other.
 
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Speedrdr

Speedrdr

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Paris, MS
The switch should still be available I believe. It’s the two wire Ford version.
The single wire GM version is more common in the aftermarket, but the two wire is needed, if you are keeping the stock wire.
Actually, it’s not critical that you keep it for that reason only. The main reason is that the two don’t have the same threads and are not compatible with each other.
I’ve got a new AAW wiring harness to do a rewire job. Will the ford 2-wire part 1) be compatible and 2) does WH sell the part? Lo

Randy
 

dmoses42

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Brunswick, Ga
https://www.dennis-carpenter.com/ca...k12uUpK5EtLO9y-wy1_bM2L0PinQdU4BoCqOEQAvD_BwE

Might find it cheaper somewhere else, but I think this is about the going price for it. Just google ford 2 wire brake warning switch, but this is what it looks like. Scott Drake makes one for about $10 more that is identical to the factory one. Can't answer about the AAW harness compatibility, but if it is for a 1 wire, it is the standard GM switch.
 
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Speedrdr

Speedrdr

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Thanks, dmoses42! I’m kind of a slacker as I have not even gotten around to even getting the wiring out of the boxes. Appreciate the help and pointing me in the right direction for switches.

Randy
 

DirtDonk

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Pretty sure the AAW harness does not have that circuit in it. If you want to retain it, you’ll have to create it yourself.
On harnesses that do include it, such as the Painless and Centech, you take the two wires of the harness and twist them to one for use with the GM switch on the newer model proportion valves.
If you retain the Ford switch, then the wires are already there. Again, though, with the AAW harness, you’re on your own.
 

Oldtimer

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This is a stock 2 wire brake pressure warning switch.
Yours broke off near the red line, leaving the pin, spring, and threaded part of the switch in the valve body.

1714700425480.png

The other half of the switch (on mine) is still plugged into the harness.

1714700392991.png

Looks like the AAW harness comes with a connector to mate to the two wire Ford switch.

1714700948337.png
 
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Speedrdr

Speedrdr

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This is a stock 2 wire brake pressure warning switch.
Yours broke off near the red line, leaving the pin, spring, and threaded part of the switch in the valve body.

View attachment 924601

The other half of the switch (on mine) is still plugged into the harness.

View attachment 924600

Looks like the AAW harness comes with a connector to mate to the two wire Ford switch.

View attachment 924602
Yay! Something is actually going to work out for me…maybe I should not start crowing just yet. Murphy lurks behind my MIG welder.

Randy
 
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Speedrdr

Speedrdr

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Paris, MS
This is a stock 2 wire brake pressure warning switch.
Yours broke off near the red line, leaving the pin, spring, and threaded part of the switch in the valve body.

View attachment 924601
Yep. All I got showing is a spring. Soaking the area and pondering how it’s coming out…in one piece.
The other half of the switch (on mine) is still plugged into the harness.

View attachment 924600
Yep, yep. Found its “twin” only greasier.
Looks like the AAW harness comes with a connector to mate to the two wire Ford switch.

View attachment 924602
Haven’t looked at that yet…honey-do day today. I’m gonna trust you on that as you were right on the first two. Lol
Thanks for the pics so it’s an easier (?) process for me.

Randy
 

DirtDonk

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That’s a nice addition to the AAW harness.
I wonder what the extension is supposed to connect to? Doesn’t look like the correct style connector for the GM switch. But that might just be the angle of the drawing.
Usually a round rubber booted connector and pigtail comes with the new switches that are in the new combination valves.
 
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Speedrdr

Speedrdr

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That’s a nice addition to the AAW harness.
I wonder what the extension is supposed to connect to? Doesn’t look like the correct style connector for the GM switch. But that might just be the angle of the drawing.
Usually a round rubber booted connector and pigtail comes with the new switches that are in the new combination valves.
If the AAW fitting is not just right, there’s nothing to keep me from splicing the connection that’s still with my current wiring to a new switch,right?

Randy
 
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Speedrdr

Speedrdr

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As an aside, is there any reason to NOT locate this block in a more convenient location or will the WH prebent brake line prohibit moving the prop valve?

Randy
 

EPB72

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Pleasant Hill, CA
That’s a nice addition to the AAW harness.
I wonder what the extension is supposed to connect to? Doesn’t look like the correct style connector for the GM switch. But that might just be the angle of the drawing.
Usually a round rubber booted connector and pigtail comes with the new switches that are in the new combination valves.
The[single] wire from under the dash to the switch is not terminated at the engine compartment end.You/installer cut wire to desired length and install provided connector [small parts bag]. Packard /dephi 56 series connectors .. then you plug in the jumper harness to the ford switch..
 

DirtDonk

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Sounds good. At least they were thinking it through.
 

DirtDonk

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If the AAW fitting is not just right, there’s nothing to keep me from splicing the connection that’s still with my current wiring to a new switch, right?
Nope. And in fact, with other harnesses more of a universal nature, you’d have to do it from scratch anyway.
 

DirtDonk

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As an aside, is there any reason to NOT locate this block in a more convenient location or will the WH prebent brake line prohibit moving the prop valve?
No, there’s no reason at all not to put it in a more convenient location.
But yes, any pre-bent lines, from us or anyone else, are more than likely going to create problems in doing so.
You can re-bend the pre-bend, or you can start fresh. Only you will be able to plan it out and see what you can get away with.
Depends on where you want to put it, and what parts you have to work with.
 
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