Brake Equalizer block

[Speedrdr]

Didn’t find anything about equalizer blocks in previous posts so here goes. I have looked all over the engine bay trying to find this “elusive” block. Here’s some pics of what I assume is the block but as rusty and dirty as it is, I’m just not sure. Can it be tested to find out if it’s good or is it just go on and buy a new one? Appreciate any help or insights.

Randy

 

[dmoses42]

Well, you won't buy a new one that looks like that. Can't help you for testing. Some people call it a proportioning valve, but I think most call it a brake differential valve. On the non-disc brake Broncos, they call it a H-block. If it isn't working, I found a place that will rebuild it, but they quoted me $170 I think. If you don't care what it looks like, you can buy one just about anywhere by googling PV2. But from what I've seen, people say they aren't terribly reliable. I've been wrong before, so don't take my word for that.

 

[dmoses42]

If you want it rebuilt, it will have a lifetime guarantee...

https://whitepost.com/brake-sleeving-rebuilding-services/

 

[Speedrdr]

Proportional valve. Thanks for that wisdom, @dmoses42 as I could NOT think of it.

 

[Speedrdr]

I guess the next question is: can the brake system function/operate without this block?

Randy

 

[Oldtimer]

Looks like mine.
The nylon brake pressure warning switch has disintegrated, leaving the pin and spring poking out of it.
The other half of the switch may still be plugged into the Ford harness (two purple wires).

The Ford technical name is Brake Pressure Differential Valve Assembly.
It also contains the disc brake metering valve.



The common name is porportioning valve.
The after market valve sold by all the Bronco vendors is not the correct part, but is all there is and seems to work.
You have to delete the Ford two wire connector, splice the two wires together and connect to a one wire connector.



What I am going to try to do with mine is unscrew the part of the brake warning switch that is still in the valve body.
Then screw in a new two wire switch and plug the harness connector into it.
All with out removing it from the Bronco. I don't think I will have good luck braking 50 year old tube nuts loose, and re-installing them with out leaks.

 

[dmoses42]

Somebody else gonna have to answer that one. I don't see how you connect all the brake lines without one of some sort.

 

[Speedrdr]

Looks like mine.
The nylon brake pressure warning switch has disintegrated, leaving the pin and spring poking out of it.
The other half of the switch may still be plugged into the Ford harness (two purple wires).

The Ford technical name is Brake Pressure Differential Valve Assembly.
It also contains the disc brake metering valve.

View attachment 924195

The common name is porportioning valve.
The after market valve sold by all the Bronco vendors is not the correct part, but is all there is and seems to work.
You have to delete the Ford two wire connector, splice the two wires together and connect to a one wire connector.

View attachment 924196

What I am going to try to do with mine is unscrew the part of the brake warning switch that is still in the valve body.
Then screw in a new two wire switch and plug the harness connector into it.
All with out removing it from the Bronco. I don't think I will have good luck braking 50 year old tube nuts loose, and re-installing them with out leaks.

View attachment 924197

Thanks, I think, @Oldtimer. I’m not sure if I could manage doing all THAT without taking out of the truck. Oh well, don’t guess I should be surprised that the dang thing is in almost an unreachable spot. Guess I’ll be spraying the AeroKroil for several days and see how if I can at least get it to a reasonable spot to work on. Lol

I do appreciate the help and the pics. Headed to the shop for more fun.

Randy

 

[Speedrdr]

Somebody else gonna have to answer that one. I don't see how you connect all the brake lines without one of some sort.

Yeah, I kinda figured it was a necessity to run lines but was hoping there was a workaround to net rid of it.

Randy

 

[DirtDonk]

Are you having trouble with your brakes? If not, why mess with a good thing?
You obviously have a 76 or 77 bronco, with factory disc brakes. That valve has multiple functions that are, every one, quite desirable.
You can certainly bypass it, but nobody in their right mind does it unless they’re replacing it with something of equal or greater effectiveness, I wouldn’t think.

I believe one of our MOAB kits (for 75 and earlier models) included a bracket and adapters, to eliminate the old H-block. But it was only included with a full braking system, including alternative, updated proportioning, or combination valves.
I’m also pretty sure we would never sell it separately, for safety, reliability, and lawsuit reasons!
And frankly, even with a fully altered brake system, leaving the old distribution block in place, simplifies plumbing.
Your combination valve is different from the old, simple pressure differential valve, but the concept could be the same.

What issues are you having with it currently? If it’s malfunctioning, you can also rebuild your own with parts available from the aftermarket.
There is a company that sells kits for the different manufacturers versions. We’ve had writeups on it here, and on other forums.

 

[Oldtimer]

There is a company that sells kits for the different manufacturers versions. We’ve had writeups on it here, and on other forums.

Paul,

When you get back to your full size computer (and secret stash of notes), can you provide name of said company that sells parts for Ford porportioning valves?

Geoff

 

[DirtDonk]

Ha ha! You know me well!
Yes, I’d be happy to. Might even be sooner rather than later this time, since someone brought it up on another form last week.
So I might not have to dig through my pile of physical notes.

 

[DirtDonk]

I’ll get a confirmation later, or tomorrow. But I think one of the sources is called musclecarresearch.
I think they’re one of the ones that put together little bag kits for the different manufacturers. See if you can search that one out and if anything comes up.
If that’s the one, then some searches may bring up discussions here, on ClassicBroncos.

 

[dmoses42]

I’ll get a confirmation later, or tomorrow. But I think one of the sources is called musclecarresearch.
I think they’re one of the ones that put together little bag kits for the different manufacturers. See if you can search that one out and if anything comes up.
If that’s the one, then some searches may bring up discussions here, on ClassicBroncos.

I think that's it Paul. Go to the website, click on Ford Parts, scroll down to the Kelsey-Hayes kits and there they are. There is even an "autopsy" of one showing how to disassemble it. Looks like $35-37 for the parts minus the switch. They have kits for each part of it, Pressure Differential Switch Kit, Proportioning Valve Kit, and Metering Valve Kit. Didn't see the actual 2 wire switch though...

 

[Speedrdr]

Are you having trouble with your brakes? If not, why mess with a good thing?
You obviously have a 76 or 77 bronco, with factory disc brakes. That valve has multiple functions that are, every one, quite desirable.
You can certainly bypass it, but nobody in their right mind does it unless they’re replacing it with something of equal or greater effectiveness, I wouldn’t think.

I believe one of our MOAB kits (for 75 and earlier models) included a bracket and adapters, to eliminate the old H-block. But it was only included with a full braking system, including alternative, updated proportioning, or combination valves.
I’m also pretty sure we would never sell it separately, for safety, reliability, and lawsuit reasons!
And frankly, even with a fully altered brake system, leaving the old distribution block in place, simplifies plumbing.
Your combination valve is different from the old, simple pressure differential valve, but the concept could be the same.

What issues are you having with it currently? If it’s malfunctioning, you can also rebuild your own with parts available from the aftermarket.
There is a company that sells kits for the different manufacturers versions. We’ve had writeups on it here, and on other forums.

Paul,
The main problem with it is where it’s located. I’m trying to hook up new master cylinder and run lines and the @&$%^#} H-block is pretty much unreachable and the 50 year old connections don’t want to turn loose.
Rant over.
I fought fittings for an hour and got frustrated and went on to another part of the bronco so I could work on something that could actually be done.

Randy

 

[DirtDonk]

I understand that work process very well!
From the recalcitrant tube fittings, to going elsewhere. Preferably to the extreme other end of a vehicle, or to another vehicle altogether!
Good luck!

 

[Speedrdr]

Well, the AeroKroil soaking finally worked its magic and 8 skinned knuckles and a cut finger later, it’s out of the cramped confines of the truck. Didn’t help that I was fighting headers and that’s the only time I’ve had second thoughts about them.

Randy

 

[DirtDonk]

Headers always make those things worse.

 

[Speedrdr]

Well, now that it’s out and I’m bout done with my tantrum, I have a question or two. In first pic, what am I missing as I’m fairly sure that a spring on its own isn’t the complete part. On the second pic, is this a reset button of some sort?
Okay, I just thought of a 3rd question. With whatever is missing from the center where the spring is, will it affect the function of the valve?

Randy

 

[DirtDonk]

The rest of the part with the missing spring, should be the now snapped off brake pressure differential switch.
It’s the part that the shuttle pushes on to illuminate the dash warning light when there is a problem with the system, such as a leak.

The other part is in fact a valve.
I believe its official term is “metering valve“ but it’s also known as a “delay valve” in some books. And that’s what I always remember it as.
It’s purposes to temporally delay the application of the front brakes, while the rear drum brakes catch up. A stabilizer of sorts.
It is also something that you need to pull out (or push in, on some versions) while you are bleeding the front brakes.