Just purchased a 1976 when the guy arrived with it we had to jump it to get it off the trailer. When for a ride around my neighborhood to get the battery charged. Got home and left it running in the drive way and it died. Jumped it again and took it for another ride around the block and it died again. Any suggestions?
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Battery dying.
- Thread starter Fry
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 47,707
Yes, measure your voltage at the battery when the engine is running.
Batteries do get old and die, but there's also a good chance your charging system is not working.
With the engine running you should see a steady voltage of approx. 14.5v or so at the battery terminals. It's not exact, but that's the range within a half a volt or so.
If it's over 16 then it might have killed the battery if it was run that way too long. If it's under 13 it's not working and is not charging the battery.
Once you find that out, let us know and we can start to diagnose the problem. Don't just replace parts though, as new ones are often defective and will give a false sense of security.
At this point the wires are almost 50 years old, and might have issues of their own. Even something as simple as the regulator being disconnected, or just one wire not working will cause a no-charge condition.
good luck. And congrats on the new-to-you Bronco!
Paul
Batteries do get old and die, but there's also a good chance your charging system is not working.
With the engine running you should see a steady voltage of approx. 14.5v or so at the battery terminals. It's not exact, but that's the range within a half a volt or so.
If it's over 16 then it might have killed the battery if it was run that way too long. If it's under 13 it's not working and is not charging the battery.
Once you find that out, let us know and we can start to diagnose the problem. Don't just replace parts though, as new ones are often defective and will give a false sense of security.
At this point the wires are almost 50 years old, and might have issues of their own. Even something as simple as the regulator being disconnected, or just one wire not working will cause a no-charge condition.
good luck. And congrats on the new-to-you Bronco!
Paul
How old is the battery? If more than 5 years, you should replace it.
Hi, just driving around town will not charge a drained battery. It will take a few hours on a decent battery charger to charge it up. Many auto parts stores will test the battery and charging alternator for free, but you have to remove the alternator and walk inside with it. I have a feeling that the alternator or regulator, or both, are faulty, because it died after the jumpstart. If the charging system was working the engine should have stayed running, Check the fan belt. Good luck
Broncobowsher
Total hack
- Joined
- Jun 4, 2002
- Messages
- 34,967
No volt meter, quick test.
Jump start it at night, leave the cables hooked up.
Turn on the headlights.
Disconnect cables.
Headlights dim a lot, you don't have a charging system.
Incandescent light bulbs are a really good voltage tester if you know how bright they should be.
Jump start it at night, leave the cables hooked up.
Turn on the headlights.
Disconnect cables.
Headlights dim a lot, you don't have a charging system.
Incandescent light bulbs are a really good voltage tester if you know how bright they should be.
So I tested the battery with a multimeter and it did show the battery at 14.5 v with the battery running. I also tried a battery/alternator tester from harbor freight and it said the alternator was bad. Anyway to test the alternator?
Last edited:
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- Nov 3, 2003
- Messages
- 47,707
I thought you just did? Although I can’t say I know anything about the harbor freight alternator tester, even your voltage shows that the alternator is working.
If it’s putting out 14 1/2 volts, it’s doing what it supposed to do.
But as far as testing the diodes so that they are not allowing the battery to drain, I’m not sure how that is performed. Although, generally speaking, most auto parts stores can bench test an alternator.
At least the bigger chain stores when their machines are working and the employees know how to operate it.
Then, again, and easy test as to the next time, you park the battery vehicle with the battery, fully charged, disconnect, the battery, and let it sit for a few days. If the battery goes dead, while it’s disconnected, the battery is bad.
Another thing you can check is the regulator.
If you disconnect the regulator and the drain goes away, you have a bad regulator.
But with your multimeter, you can test the voltages on two of the wires at the regulator.
The yellow wire should have power whether the key is on or off.
The green with red stripe wire should have power only when the key is turned to the on position.
The orange wire shouldn’t have anything on it.
If you have power on the green with red wire while the key is off, you have an ignition switch or wiring problem.
If it’s putting out 14 1/2 volts, it’s doing what it supposed to do.
But as far as testing the diodes so that they are not allowing the battery to drain, I’m not sure how that is performed. Although, generally speaking, most auto parts stores can bench test an alternator.
At least the bigger chain stores when their machines are working and the employees know how to operate it.
Then, again, and easy test as to the next time, you park the battery vehicle with the battery, fully charged, disconnect, the battery, and let it sit for a few days. If the battery goes dead, while it’s disconnected, the battery is bad.
Another thing you can check is the regulator.
If you disconnect the regulator and the drain goes away, you have a bad regulator.
But with your multimeter, you can test the voltages on two of the wires at the regulator.
The yellow wire should have power whether the key is on or off.
The green with red stripe wire should have power only when the key is turned to the on position.
The orange wire shouldn’t have anything on it.
If you have power on the green with red wire while the key is off, you have an ignition switch or wiring problem.
Hi, 14.5 volts with the engine running is normal, but a real charging system test will test for amps under load, a cheap tester will not test for amps. what is the voltage at the battery with the engine off? Do you have the original style charging system with the separate alternator and regulator or a newer modern high output alternator? If you have the original style charging system google how to "full field" the alternator. If you have the old mechanical style voltage regulator replace it with a newer electronic voltage regulator. Good luck
If your engine still has V-belts make sure they are tight.
The alternator output may be 14.5v at idle, but any charging load on alternator will cause belt to slip, and alternator will not charge battery.
Also, unlike the "old" days when vehicles came with generators, if the battery is weak/dead an alternator will not have enough output to keep engine running, and/or recharge the dead battery.
The alternator output may be 14.5v at idle, but any charging load on alternator will cause belt to slip, and alternator will not charge battery.
Also, unlike the "old" days when vehicles came with generators, if the battery is weak/dead an alternator will not have enough output to keep engine running, and/or recharge the dead battery.
One of the chain auto parts stores should have a meter that can test your alternator operation without removing it from your truck. Just make sure that they test it with nothing on and with all the electrical stuff in the truck turned on, and at different rpm settings. They should also be able to test for a "draw" on the battery with the truck turned off and the key and electric equipment in the off position. It won't isolate the component creating the draw, but it will tell you if you have one. If you have a bad battery, just the constant power to the radio clock can run it down. If you have a maintenance free lead acid battery, and it's out of warranty, you can peel the label up on top and expose the plugs for the cells. You should be able to unscrew them and check your electrolyte level. If one or more are low, add some distilled water and you may be able to resurrect your battery. Good luck! Edit: as was said above, you gotta go to a parts store that has the right equipment and someone who knows how to use it.
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2010
- Messages
- 612
Similar issue a few years back. With the vehicle off, unhook positive and put voltmeter between post and cable. This will tell you if there is a draw. My voltage regulator ended up staying open and drawing the battery dead over night.
