Battery drain and no power to ignition

[crutch]

I'm a new bronco owner and first off just wanted to say this community is awesome! Although this is my first post, I've spent hours reading through so many threads and learning a ton. I only wish I didn't have to work so much so I could just work on the bronco all day but I'm sure you all know how that goes.

Now to my problem. I had some body work done and the guy hotwired the bronco and I think left a jumper wire from the battery to the ignition coil which fried the coil. I ran the resistance test based on some other recommendations and confirmed it has an open circuit. I'm about to go replace it but I've also noticed that I'm still getting a battery drain and not getting any power to the ignition or dash when in run or in start. Battery is loosing about 1V per day.

I recharged the battery back to 12V and trying to run some tests. I've checked the voltage at the solenoid on the 'S' terminal when in start and not getting any voltage. I've heard mention of a neutral safety switch but I have a manual transmission. Would I still have a neutral safety switch? One other bit of information, I did just replace the ignition switch and cylinder because I was having problems with my cylinder. Are there some tests I can run on my ignition switch?

Any recommendations on where to start next would be greatly appreciated!

 

[crutch]

I just took the battery to O'Reily and looks like its bad so I'll replace battery and coil and go from there.

 

[Mtgrizzlymn]

I had a drain and it was the brand new voltage regulator!

 

[crutch]

I got a little deeper into the wiring and got my first taste of PO electrical modifications. Looks like he had some aftermarket stereo amps and rerouted the power cable coming off the solenoid which is my I'm not getting power to my ignition circuit.

Since I'm removing the ammeter, what is the best way to bypass that high current wire that goes through the bullet connector and ammeter in the dash since I don't need it anymore? Btw, I still have the original alternator (for now).

I think I can just connect the power side of the solenoid to the alternator but will need a fuse. What is the best way to approach this and what size fuse do I need?

Thanks for the help.

 

[DirtDonk]

I got a little deeper into the wiring and got my first taste of PO electrical modifications.

Well sorry to hear that! Means you're starting from a disadvantage, but at least you found some potential gremlins ahead of time and have/are fixing them right up front.
Oh, and welcome to CB too on top of all that.

Since I'm removing the ammeter, what is the best way to bypass that high current wire that goes through the bullet connector and ammeter in the dash since I don't need it anymore? Btw, I still have the original alternator (for now).

Frankly, since you still have the stock output alternator (even up to 70 amps) I would not go to the trouble of removing or bypassing that wire just yet. Too much trouble for no gain. The way Ford made ours is not the same as all the ones you hear horror stories about, and that same wire is the one feeding the fuse panel and other circuits anyway, so you're not gaining anything other than losing the use of the gauge alone.

So my recommendation is that until you install a higher output alternator (above 70 amps), just use it. If you do install one, either build or buy one of these:http://www.wildhorses4x4.com/product/Battery_Charge_Cable_AMG_fused and you're done.

If you still want to bypass even now, just leave all the stuff under the dash alone (unless it's been previously molested or is otherwise compromised of course), disconnect the large Black w/yellow wire from the large stud with the red insulator on the back of the alternator, isolate it with one of the methods we talk about in our various threads (and can again here, if needed), and replace it with a 10ga or larger wire between the stud on the alternator directly to the starter relay/battery positive post.
But again, no reason to do that unless something is seriously wrong with your old one. And in that case, you might have other issues to take care of as well. Such as a new wire harness.

I think I can just connect the power side of the solenoid to the alternator but will need a fuse. What is the best way to approach this and what size fuse do I need?

A Mega-Fuse is typical for the higher output stuff, but with your stock setup (likely 55-65 amps?) even a smaller Maxi-Fuse would do the trick. I'd use an 80 amp model in case your alternator is capable of putting out more than 65 amps. If it does, then a 70 amp fuse is likely too small.
Because of the shortness of the run between the alternator and starter relay post, even a 12ga wire would work for awhile. But for safety I'd go a minimum of 10 ga (roughly the factory wire size) and probably the much more robust and expensive 8ga wire.
If you're planning a swap to a big alternator soon, then don't make one rated for the lower alternator. Just go big right now and save yourself some headaches in the future. Either use 6ga battery cable and a Maxi-Fuse rated at 100 amps (or smaller if they exist) and then upgrade the fuse only to 150 or 175 later when you upgrade the alternator.

I had some body work done and the guy hotwired the bronco and I think left a jumper wire from the battery to the ignition coil which fried the coil.

Darn guys are as bad as PO's!

I'm still getting a battery drain and not getting any power to the ignition or dash when in run or in start. Battery is loosing about 1V per day.

I've checked the voltage at the solenoid on the 'S' terminal when in start and not getting any voltage.

Would I still have a neutral safety switch?

I did just replace the ignition switch and cylinder because I was having problems with my cylinder. Are there some tests I can run on my ignition switch?

A drain could be a fried alternator diode. Was the new alternator installed before the body guy drained the battery? It seems like this would be a bigger drain than what you're experiencing, but you never know.
It can also be the voltage regulator itself. You can disconnect the alternator and the regulator to see if the drain goes away.

No power to anything? What about headlights and brake lights and stuff that does not work with the key like that?
If so, were you messing with the aforementioned bullet connector behind the ammeter? If so, connect it back up! ;D
It's between the battery and everything else.

And as you've probably read by now, don't trust new parts. Your new stuff even if it's newer than the body shop, might be bad right out of the box.
To test the ignition switch, just put your volt-meter or test light on the back to see if you get power in the various positions.
The Yellow wire brings power in to the switch, the large Black w/green wire on the center post has power in the RUN and ACC positions, the Green w/red and Red w/green wires are hot in RUN only, and the Red w/blue wire is hot in START only.

Have fun!

Paul

 

[crutch]

Thanks Paul for all the great info. I'll take your recommendation and just hold off on bypassing the ammeter until I decide to make an alternator switch and do it at the same time.

I did find something else that was really strange after i removed a bunch of electrical tape. The PO took the black wire coming off the solenoid that has the fusible link in it off and then ran it into the cabin. Along with it was a second wire that was connected to the solenoid but it was yellow and it ran back into the cabin as well so I'm assuming they were connected to one another at some point in the dash. I ripped a bunch of the stereo wiring out previously and thought these were related to the stereo but this is why I wasn't getting any power to my ignition circuit.

So, I wired this black wire that has the fusible link with a yellow wire (goes to voltage regulator) back to the solenoid per the original schematic and now when I reconnect the battery I'm getting power to the ignition switch!

Looks like I may be in business until the next problem. Thanks for the help!

 

[DirtDonk]

Hah! I think in all that I forgot to mention the fusible link possibly being blown. In your case though, it was just that the whole wire was disconnected.
Hmm, works without the key, but in RUN it shuts everything off? It's a mystery... %)

How are your ground wires? Should be one from the battery to the engine block (the main cable) and another smaller one from the battery negative to the body. Usually at the wheel well, but can be anywhere just about.
The Black w/red (or Black only) wire, as you found out, is your main power from the battery to the fuse panel and beyond. The Yellow wire at the starter relay/solenoid is usually for a Horn relay ('74 and later) but all years have a Yellow wire that powers the voltage regulator that is tapped into the Black wire. I'm pretty sure it's connected under the tape wrap from the factory, and that only the horn relay wire is normally visible right at the starter relay.
But with all the PO mods, there's no telling where it's all going to or coming from.

How is the ignition switch wired? Does it look like things have been tweaked there too? Or is it looking pretty "factory" as far as you can tell?
Originally there would have been a black plastic connector/strain relief holding all the wires to the switch, with a nut screwed down onto that center post holding it all together. The same nut holds the large Black w/green wire there.

I wonder if that wire has been messed with?

Paul

 

[crutch]

The ignition switch and the wiring harness that runs to the dash looks "factory". One thing I realized is that the only thing on my instrument cluster that is working are the 2 turn lights when I engage hazards but they are solid (no flashing). Nothing when using turn signal either.

The fuse box is really rusted so I'm thinking that could be causing some problems. I tried to run a continuity tester across the B-R Fuse 2 and wasn't getting anything. I suspect this could be causing some issues and other fuses don't look any better.

I'll get this replaced first and then try the switch in ACC again.

Slowly chipping away!

 

[DirtDonk]

If it's really bad, you might just have to replace it (it's a real upgrade when it's done though), but if it's "just normally rusty" you might still be able to clean the contacts well enough to get some good action from it.

And yes, that could definitely cause enough mysterious issues to scratch your head over while you're looking for other demons. So good to at least eliminate, ore at least reduce, the possibility your fuse panel is causing trouble.

If it's bad though, some simple aftermarket affair spliced in with those nice modern ATO/ATC (I think?) blade fuses is a wonder to behold after working with old glass fuses for long enough.
A bit of work, but worth it. And now you can see why so many EB owners (both new and old) are completely re-wiring their Broncos from scratch with one of the available harnesses.
Heck, some make their own from scratch, just to be rid of what the PO left.

Paul

 

[crutch]

I think your right, it needs to be replaced. I was on the fence for doing an entire rewire. Was trying to save a few bucks and avoid it but I'll re-evaluate if this doesn't solve the problem. Thanks for all the help.